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I have put a new battery and alternator in it and it still will not turn on.
Had an oil change and a radiator flush done, a week later it started hesitating when I step on the gas, has a hard time accelerating very sluggish. The check engine light came on with the cruise light flashing (I don't ever use the cruise), now that light has gone off but it is sluggish upon accelerating, does fairly well at higher speeds, just acting like it doesn't want to accelerate well at lower speeds such as at a stop sign or traffic light, some pinging or metal rubbing against metal sounds as well, loses acceleration when going uphill. No check engine light comes on! Someone mentioned a map sensor or possibly a misfire (spark plugs and wires). Please help me!!!! This problem is now constant!
new plugs new coils, runs fine but ci light still on?
tried manual advice pressing choices on key fob
A few years back I went to boost my battery and crossed the wires on my 2004 Saab 9-3. It is the worst thing you can do. Ended up costing almost $5000 to repair as the whole engine operating systems were fried. Car has not been the same since. Doors open and close still are intermittent, but not prepared to spend any more money. So last thing that is bothering me is Distance to empty on my SID it increases as you drive rather than decrease. Would be nice if that were the case but not so. Any ideas?? FYI when I start the care it reflects reasonably the correct distance to empty but as you drive it increases.
the car is a saab 93aero 2003 155KW manual gearbox. I was checking some other saab forums and it mi be something with the vaccum. Did anybody have a different opinion, have the same problem?how it was fixt??? thank you
single red wire from compressor turns into blue wire which goes ?
Chiltons book has nothing
I was told they needed to be 'fixed' before winter. However, if I can fix the problem sooner and on my own, I'd love too. When I'm driving, I'll be going fifty, and the light will change to yellow, and I'll know instinctively I'm far enough back I should stop. But the brakes are bad enough that if I did attempt to brake I would end up in the intersection. So I'm taking a lot of risks with going through yellows. I'm wondering how I can fix this problem on my own and not have to pay a fortune to take it back in to the 'foreign car repair shop'. Thanks!
It does it when I speed up or just driving. It does it for a little and when I start driving again
installed new battery Same prob got diagnostic says alternator running properly.. Could it be the key??
the first time I got gas I flooded my car/engine. had the oil changed and spark plugs cleaned. every time since then, when I get fuel my car doesn't want to start. I also topped off the first three times. I know not smart. when it has more than 3/4 gas my gas gauge doesn't work either.
The A/C is charged and the heat is working. The dash vents are good except the center one which is weak and the floor is weak
Would the p502 sensor have anything to do with the problem
Thought I got some bad gas but that doesn't really fit the 1 to 2 hour wait to restart. What is the crankshaft sensor for?
Feels like we're driving a washing machine during the agitation cycle. Help please. What to look at and how much max to fix!
The cable inside the trunk of my convertible that controls the trunk trim housing the convertible top when down has broken. This cable raises the trunk panel when the top is up to create more trunk space. I cannot find it, don't know what it's called and don't know part number. Thanks
i took my car to the shop and the mechanic said i needed to replace the control module 1 and 2 cause the lights stay on after i start my car