Pontiac Vibe Questions
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05 Vibe AWD 100k miles...running good EXCEPT now have CLICKING-RATCHETING noise coming from drivetrain. Directly correlates with speed...but faster rotation than wheel rotation rate, so thinking it's coming from Driveshaft back to Rear Diff. Also, the clicking sometimes goes away (started to get it checked THEN it disappeared for 4 months ? THEN it came back). Thinking it might be Carrier bearing (which contains ball bearings, not pinions) OR....could it be coming from Rear Differential ? Vibe (Matrix) AWD system is Viscous Coupling...but not sure exactly how that works...IS THERE SOME KIND OF GEARING PROCESS THAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THE RATCHETING NOISE wherein the Viscous Coupling is not engaging ? Sound seems to coming from
mid-ship...not Front or Rear. (I don't believe it is a front CV joint. (yes I understand that noises, especially metal can be transferred and disquise the origin) I'm just wondering IF anyone has ever experienced this noise ? (I've had it up on the rack during recent Trans Fluid change...but noticed NOTHING out of sorts...and IF try running while on rack...it could trigger warning system...which would then have to be reset by dealer ?) Vibe shifts out fine...so I don't think it's transmission issue. Thanks for ANY FEEDBACK !
Recently had the cat. converter replaced. What are your thoughts?
my engine light is on. the car is running fine and light keeps coming back on? fuel pump is replaced already.
The other proformance is as usual.
Had oil changed 2 months ago. All of a sudden it blew off when I started the engine. It tightens up but blows off again. Threads look OK. Can engine build up that much pressure ?
3 months ago I had the vacuum canister replaced when these lights stayed on. The same happened 1 1/2 years ago. The mechanic replaced the ECM and reset the codes. The lights came on again.
Exterior lights work but none of the interior gauges light up. Speedometer, fuel and so forth. We already had the fuses checked and told by mechanic that this was not the problem. Any ideas?
I don't see that listed among the repairs and wondered what another name could be for this. I'd like to know if I was over-charged. I know it was an emissions code. Thanks!
My kid used my car last night and this morning the battery is dead. I'm thinking he may have messed with the dome light switch and it was on all night. What position should the switch be in normally? It is currently switched to the front of the vehicle.
As a result I have no radio, lights, power windows, power locks, and stuck in park(I figured out how to override that) and in moving to safer parking, the transmission shifts roughly. Is this going to cost a fortune to fix I don't have? This is last car I can buy.
My husband found out why my AC would quit blowing when I stopped or accelerated, but we are having a problem fixing it permanently. Turns out a cable behind the radio that resembles a bicycle cable is jarring loose. We haven't been able to find out exactly what the cable is called, nor where it connects at the other end so that we can check both ends.
Any help is HUGELY appreciated! The manual he got doesn't include this part, & I only found out this the prob by searching threads online. He got me a new stereo a few years back & seems it was disturbed during install but didn't begin disconnecting until recently.
If you can suggest a way to stabilize it that'd be great too! It only seems to come loose during stopping & accelerating as I Said, not @ high speeds or on bumpy roads.
Thank you for your help!
comes on and off at the same time then off.Then again no beeps if seat is not on what could be the problem thnx.
to only do this when the engine is idleing.I've flushed the radiator and filled it with new coolant.Still no change.Any advice?
This problem occurs when the car in also in low speeds like when on surface streets and in slow moving traffic. Turing the heater on actually reverses the engine overheating unless the idle time is extended (as in car idle but not moving).
ECM was replaced as part of the recall 2-3 Years ago. Car will not start after running for a few minutes. All interior lights & radio come on. When turn ignition on everything shuts off...Battery Light, Check Engine & Oil light stay lit. Battery checked out good at Autozone. Have not tried getting fault codes yet.
The A/C was working fine, this morning, but this afternoon it is not saying anything. We recently had our brake lights changed, all 3 went out at the same time, could this be a fuse issue?
Thank you for responding to my question so quickly. It was not the alternator, it was the water pump. Hello! You saved me $1,000 of unnecessary repairs, plus the cost of getting the water pump replaced. Not to mention getting stuck somewhere with an overheated engine.
High pitched whining noise began in January/February and has gotten louder. It can be heard when idle and gets louder on acceleration. Mechanic used a stethoscope to locate the origin. Says it is near the alternator. Wants to replace alternator and belt (forgot the exact name of the belt) for $1,000 minimum. Does that seem normal? No symptoms on the dashboard ... i.e. no dimming of lights and no problems starting the car. This car only has 42,000 miles on it. I am not sure if it is a 1.8 or 2.4 lit capacity. Does a powertrain warranty cover this?
It does not stay on all the time but the vcs off light blinks when it is on. Does not stay on or off and switches by itself. Can you tell me what that is?
it whines but no dimming of my lights or anything, an my rpms I have with it dropping an making my car have a jerking when I am sitting still, or until my temp gauge reaches between the hot an cold temp.
nuts can't be tighten
My check engine light came on recently and my mechanic said it was a problem with the evaporation system so he replaced the vent cellinoid (sp?) and put on a new gas cap. The check engine light is back on again and I'm wondering if anyone has had the same problem and what the issue might be.
Opening with the handle I can hear the pins open or at a least one unlatch. I can also hear the door pin/pins clutch when the door latch button is pressed on the dash. The doors are unlocked. And the door sensor reads door is open. Also the rear wiper and defroster are working right now either, all not working at the same time.
going down the hwy and the belt sch wells and it dies and it won't start?
Check engine light came on with code specific to Bank 1 02 sensor. Had that changed, month later light came back on again, same code. 02 sensor was replaced (in case of defectiveness)2 days later check engine light is on again. Heading in to have it read. IF the code comes back as Bank 1 02 sensor, does that mean the catalytic converter needs to be tested to see if it's triggering the error. I read previous q&a's and there was one that was suppose to link to a page discussing this but the link does not work.
thanks for the help,
How can this be? The PCV is underneath/behind the intake manifold on the 1.8 liter engine and requires the removal of the manifold to reach it. Once there, a new manifold gasket would be required to put all the parts back together. Is there really a RP certified repair facility willing to do the job for $40-$52?