Nothing hanging or appears to be broken. is there a flex joint? or belt? that could break. Or a solenoid that can be checked

My mechanic says its a worked out bolt

My mechanic told me it was a worn out bolt or is it a heater relay?

they continue to operate. No matter what position the control is put in the wipers continue to run. It seems as though this only happens when the weather becomes real cold out. Once the temperatures warm up, the problem stops. Please provide some solutions......

I removed the crank handle, and the door panel, but I cannot see where the screw is and, what type of tool I need too. Can you help me?

upon recommendation, i looked behind the glove box for a loose relay, found one resting on some wires and cannot locate the proper location.

My gas mileage is down 30%. It's not because of the winter weather as it has been doing this slowly since September.
Also, I don't have as much juice when I hit gas. Feels slower and the RPM's go up.

It has been hooked up to be tested and nothing shows that anything is wrong. I'm having spark plugs and air filter changed. I am going to drive it out of state this weekend (about 400 miles round trip). If it still acts the same...WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT???? btw: has 98,000 miles and has always had good gas mileage 27-33 mpg about 370 miles per tank(12 gallon tank). Now i'm getting about 270 a tank.

Engine light is on, smoke comes out exhaust pipe when started up, it acts like it is going to stop in the middle of rode and blows out smoke and sputters!!! Have an appointment on Jan. 5th for a possible fix, but don't think it will make it that long.

The indicator light on the dash is also on. I've checked all door switches to be sure they are functioning correctly. When the doors are closed the key fob will still lock the doors indicating that the door switches have signaled that the doors are closed. When I move the panel dimmer control to dome lights off they do turn off but the door open dash light still remains on.

My keyless entry fob and door switch only seems to be working on the passenger side doors and rear hatch. It won't unlock. Or its at least sporadic. Both rear and front driver's side door have same sporadic issue. Any ideas on what specific component could cause this problem?

when i place the key in the ignition and turn it to on the lights in the speedometer etc. come on like normal but when i turn the key to try and start it all lights go off and it doesnt make a sound. The battery is good along with the ground and connections to the battery, the starter has been checked and ive replaced the ignition relay and the starter relay. im all out of ideas so ive landed on the ignition switch....

after replacing all four coil packs and sparks plugs my car is still running rough and shaking as well as missing.I was told the coil pack was burning up my spark plugs

05 Vibe AWD 100k miles...running good EXCEPT now have CLICKING-RATCHETING noise coming from drivetrain. Directly correlates with speed...but faster rotation than wheel rotation rate, so thinking it's coming from Driveshaft back to Rear Diff. Also, the clicking sometimes goes away (started to get it checked THEN it disappeared for 4 months ? THEN it came back). Thinking it might be Carrier bearing (which contains ball bearings, not pinions) OR....could it be coming from Rear Differential ? Vibe (Matrix) AWD system is Viscous Coupling...but not sure exactly how that works...IS THERE SOME KIND OF GEARING PROCESS THAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THE RATCHETING NOISE wherein the Viscous Coupling is not engaging ? Sound seems to coming from
mid-ship...not Front or Rear. (I don't believe it is a front CV joint. (yes I understand that noises, especially metal can be transferred and disquise the origin) I'm just wondering IF anyone has ever experienced this noise ? (I've had it up on the rack during recent Trans Fluid change...but noticed NOTHING out of sorts...and IF try running while on rack...it could trigger warning system...which would then have to be reset by dealer ?) Vibe shifts out fine...so I don't think it's transmission issue. Thanks for ANY FEEDBACK !

Recently had the cat. converter replaced. What are your thoughts?

my engine light is on. the car is running fine and light keeps coming back on? fuel pump is replaced already.

The other proformance is as usual.

Had oil changed 2 months ago. All of a sudden it blew off when I started the engine. It tightens up but blows off again. Threads look OK. Can engine build up that much pressure ?

3 months ago I had the vacuum canister replaced when these lights stayed on. The same happened 1 1/2 years ago. The mechanic replaced the ECM and reset the codes. The lights came on again.

Exterior lights work but none of the interior gauges light up. Speedometer, fuel and so forth. We already had the fuses checked and told by mechanic that this was not the problem. Any ideas?

I don't see that listed among the repairs and wondered what another name could be for this. I'd like to know if I was over-charged. I know it was an emissions code. Thanks!

My kid used my car last night and this morning the battery is dead. I'm thinking he may have messed with the dome light switch and it was on all night. What position should the switch be in normally? It is currently switched to the front of the vehicle.

As a result I have no radio, lights, power windows, power locks, and stuck in park(I figured out how to override that) and in moving to safer parking, the transmission shifts roughly. Is this going to cost a fortune to fix I don't have? This is last car I can buy.

My husband found out why my AC would quit blowing when I stopped or accelerated, but we are having a problem fixing it permanently. Turns out a cable behind the radio that resembles a bicycle cable is jarring loose. We haven't been able to find out exactly what the cable is called, nor where it connects at the other end so that we can check both ends.
Any help is HUGELY appreciated! The manual he got doesn't include this part, & I only found out this the prob by searching threads online. He got me a new stereo a few years back & seems it was disturbed during install but didn't begin disconnecting until recently.
If you can suggest a way to stabilize it that'd be great too! It only seems to come loose during stopping & accelerating as I Said, not @ high speeds or on bumpy roads.
Thank you for your help!