1,130
questions

Has a little over 151,000 miles on it. We've recently replaced the motor (gently used), O2 sensor (new), battery (from junkyard), alternator (junkyard), & radiator. "Fixed" the clogged catalytic converter by opening, stripping everything out, welding back together & on van. Also, my brother didn't tell me both sway bar links were broke & it hasn't had an air box since he's had it.

My problem started when my brother used the van to push a car out of mud while car was on a slight hill. Next day I drove it & it would stall/hesitate when going a certain speed. Then gradually became dying at stops, while slowly backing out & turning, & stalling/hesitating when hitting a bump (on freeway).

I was driving on the freeway which was fine. Stop & park (while started, about 10 minutes), then shut off van & going to leave the dashboard, headlights, & radio/click lights were all flashing. Wipers were going while off. Numbers where mileage is were going crazy. All gauge needles continusly went up & down. & a humming noise came from where the alternator is. After driving about 5 minutes, it died at an intersection. Replaced the alternator with one from the junkyard (tested positive 3 times during test). Next day, replaced battery with a used one. Jumped & left on for about 10-15 minutes. Drove down the street, fine. Got onto freeway & if stalled when I hit a bump, died when I turned, & continued to stall occasionally on freeway.

Please help!!

I have a very strange problem with my 1995 Grand Voyager. It will buck and rpm’s surge from 2 to 3 ½ after driving for about 10 minutes at 60 to 70 mph. It will continue to buck much worse as I continue to drive. The strange part of all this is as I’m driving I’ll put the car in neutral and rev the engine until the rpm’s hit 4 and then wait for it come down to 2 and then put the car back in drive. The problem miraculously disappears until my next trip the next day. What can this be? If it were the tranny, I would think by revving the engine in neutral wouldn’t fix it. I’m puzzled!

My third cylendier spark plug has a misfire I had spark plug replace and the mechanic said there's a bolt in the sleeve so it want go all the way down

my engine also cuts out and quits when it has been driven for a while 5 miles or about the time it warms up

The back side of my van's wheel bearing needs a change and i would like some tuturoial

The 1998 Plymouth Voyager is also loosing water and smoking close to the radiator.

It's bee like this for 2 months. I replace a idler, fuse, air filter, spark plugs, battery.

Was driving in mountains, van cut out, restarted and cut out in 1/4 mile. Will not start again.

I'm getting loud knocking & and squeaking noises from under my car. The squeaking sounds like a tensioner but it not because the noise only happens when the car is moving. The knocking sounds much like a loose muffler or tailpipe, (or 2 or 3) but it's tight. Could it be that the noises are bad shocks & struts? Any thoughts? Thanks!

Fan blower/knob is a bit noisy on high but works fine.

I replaced a heater core on a 2000 plymouth neon. And now the windshield wipers are not working. I first checked the fuse which was not blown. Then I ran a wire to the positive and negative wire on the wiper motor. And the wipers came on with no problem. Next I replaced the wiper switch inwhich the wipers did not come on. So I replaced the wiper module and yet the wipers did not work. So I just want to get these things fixed as fast as possible. Please help me as soon as possible. Thanks.

I put a new fuel filter and pump on it, and a new coil pack. It is still just shutting off while driving no warning no nothing. When I spray starting fluid in the air filter it stays running? What could possibly be wrong? Im leaning on something with the fuel but at a loss?

This is long winded, please bear with me. Over the past 4 months, the car has died out of nowhere about 6 times, always at the same place in the road, about 10 min. from home. It cranks right back up, and I can drive it around all day, even for week, no problem. Til it happens again. This time it died the same way, but would not crank or start. Pulled it home and have been troubleshooting. I am a novice with cars, but am getting to know this one pretty well. So I checked the battery, it's at 12.6 V. I checked if I had a spark. I do, so cam and crank sensors should be fine. The lights dim when trying to crank, so ignition switch should be okay. The ignition coil readings are within specs. Used screwdriver to short post terminals on back of solenoid, and the starter motor spins. There is also a faint clicking noise from starter when trying to crank. I can hear the fuel pump (or injectors?) kicking in, there is a whirring sound when I turn the key to crank, but that is the only noise inside the car. I did have an oil leak from the cam sensor seal, and the car was out of oil when it died. I put oil in it. There was also oil in the black connector under the PDC. I cleaned it, let any extra drip out, and dried it out. I checked other wires and connectors and none have oil in them. I did the key dance and I jut got a code 12 for the battery being disconnected, which it was bc I charged it since it was getting low from trying to crank. So that leaves me with the solenoid. I checked solenoid w/ multimeter with pos. lead in the big braided wire and grounding the neg. I only got about 5V instead of 12V. I also removed the S terminal wire from the solenoid and shorted it with a screwdriver on the battery terminal (big one with a bunch of wires) and nothing happened except the starter fan spinning. It did not try to start the car. So I want to make sure before I try to find a ride to the parts store that there isn't anything I haven't thought of to check and this is most likely a bad solenoid. Do you have any questions, comments, criticism? :) I know this is really long, but I want to make sure I include everything I've done. Thank you so much for any help you can give. Thanks!

Part store says it shows they don't carry one

my lower ball joint is rubbing the rim of my front tire because it cant be lubricated and is dried out

yes I just had a fire under the hood today the wire from the starter to the battery are burned it also toke out the computer as well I just left the house and about 5 miles from the house it caught fire would like to know why

They all worked before I replaced the radiator

I had my radiator replaced the next morning transmission fluid had leak completely out.

trying to replace the rear cam plug. Do I need to remove the end cam cap to remove the plug? If so what is the torque spec on the end cam cap bolts?