Plymouth QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The back side of my van's wheel bearing needs a change and i would like some tuturoial
The 1998 Plymouth Voyager is also loosing water and smoking close to the radiator.
It's bee like this for 2 months. I replace a idler, fuse, air filter, spark plugs, battery.
Was driving in mountains, van cut out, restarted and cut out in 1/4 mile. Will not start again.
I'm getting loud knocking & and squeaking noises from under my car. The squeaking sounds like a tensioner but it not because the noise only happens when the car is moving. The knocking sounds much like a loose muffler or tailpipe, (or 2 or 3) but it's tight. Could it be that the noises are bad shocks & struts? Any thoughts? Thanks!
Fan blower/knob is a bit noisy on high but works fine.
I replaced a heater core on a 2000 plymouth neon. And now the windshield wipers are not working. I first checked the fuse which was not blown. Then I ran a wire to the positive and negative wire on the wiper motor. And the wipers came on with no problem. Next I replaced the wiper switch inwhich the wipers did not come on. So I replaced the wiper module and yet the wipers did not work. So I just want to get these things fixed as fast as possible. Please help me as soon as possible. Thanks.
I put a new fuel filter and pump on it, and a new coil pack. It is still just shutting off while driving no warning no nothing. When I spray starting fluid in the air filter it stays running? What could possibly be wrong? Im leaning on something with the fuel but at a loss?
This is long winded, please bear with me. Over the past 4 months, the car has died out of nowhere about 6 times, always at the same place in the road, about 10 min. from home. It cranks right back up, and I can drive it around all day, even for week, no problem. Til it happens again. This time it died the same way, but would not crank or start. Pulled it home and have been troubleshooting. I am a novice with cars, but am getting to know this one pretty well. So I checked the battery, it's at 12.6 V. I checked if I had a spark. I do, so cam and crank sensors should be fine. The lights dim when trying to crank, so ignition switch should be okay. The ignition coil readings are within specs. Used screwdriver to short post terminals on back of solenoid, and the starter motor spins. There is also a faint clicking noise from starter when trying to crank. I can hear the fuel pump (or injectors?) kicking in, there is a whirring sound when I turn the key to crank, but that is the only noise inside the car. I did have an oil leak from the cam sensor seal, and the car was out of oil when it died. I put oil in it. There was also oil in the black connector under the PDC. I cleaned it, let any extra drip out, and dried it out. I checked other wires and connectors and none have oil in them. I did the key dance and I jut got a code 12 for the battery being disconnected, which it was bc I charged it since it was getting low from trying to crank. So that leaves me with the solenoid. I checked solenoid w/ multimeter with pos. lead in the big braided wire and grounding the neg. I only got about 5V instead of 12V. I also removed the S terminal wire from the solenoid and shorted it with a screwdriver on the battery terminal (big one with a bunch of wires) and nothing happened except the starter fan spinning. It did not try to start the car. So I want to make sure before I try to find a ride to the parts store that there isn't anything I haven't thought of to check and this is most likely a bad solenoid. Do you have any questions, comments, criticism? :) I know this is really long, but I want to make sure I include everything I've done. Thank you so much for any help you can give. Thanks!
Part store says it shows they don't carry one
my lower ball joint is rubbing the rim of my front tire because it cant be lubricated and is dried out
yes I just had a fire under the hood today the wire from the starter to the battery are burned it also toke out the computer as well I just left the house and about 5 miles from the house it caught fire would like to know why
They all worked before I replaced the radiator
I had my radiator replaced the next morning transmission fluid had leak completely out.
trying to replace the rear cam plug. Do I need to remove the end cam cap to remove the plug? If so what is the torque spec on the end cam cap bolts?
It was running fine then this morning it keeps stalling out every time I stop or let it just idol.
I recently had my main computer die on me. I've recently installed a brand new Computer, brand new battery, and brand new alternator.
My battery light came on after pulling the old computer out, and I knew I needed a new battery. This also led to the discovery of a bad alternator.
Battery has a fresh full charge on it too, so as not to burn up the new alternator.
Why is my battery light still on?
Car now running low gear
To start off, the car I'm asking about is not a Plymouth Acclaim. It's a 1988 Plymouth Horizon, they just didn't give that option when I started. So, I'm looking to buy this car, but it doesn't have any plates on it, so we can't drive it the hour plus to our mechanic with no plates, and he's way too busy to come out and look at it. The exhaust is LOUD and the guy trying to sell it to us says that the exhaust pipe has a leak in it. The car has a catalytic converter, so we figure it would be more expensive than if it didn't, but we still don't know about what it would cost. I'll probably call my mechanic at some point and ask a ballpark of him too, but I just want to know about what it looks like, given that I'll probably have to buy the car before it sees our mechanic.
about 2 weeks ago the van started making a winding noise for a second or so, then start. Sometimes it started right up. Now it wines up and don't start at all. I did check and the belts are not turning at all.
the magnet came loose and broke the sensor
I just changed front ceal , and oil pan gasket.
It happens if in motion or idling
theres 2 sizes which do i need