I am broke down changed thermostat after flushed radiator. Re filled engine on smoke iyt if tail pipe

How to fix

loose of power lower hoser flow in bkock

wife said it lost power then died now wontrun turns over but no start have spark and just put new fuel pump in and its workin plugs seemed dry when removed to check for soark again after fuel pump install tjmimg belt isnt broke and dont think it jumped time sold the car and thought it was fuel pump so installed it for them and still wont run any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

Has spark and new fuel pump and its workin dont have a way to check for injector fire unless use test light or dvom tryin to fix car cause I sold it thinkin it was fuel pump and still no start and at the time it died it blew the bottom rad hose off rad but filled it up and put hose back on and have spark now but no start need help asap thanks

Like said above got all the ingreadints for start up but smell like it flooding but won't start

The guy selling it says that it needs transmission locks to hold down the transmission. He says the car runs good and has had the problem for about 2 years. The transmission jumps but when he lets off the gas it stops. He says when you look at it with the hood up you can see the transmission moving, and his estimate to fix it was about $130. I've never heard of transmission locks?

Everytime I get in my car & start it "communication error" is across display, won't show me what radio station is playing, but it'll show me the other options I have for the radio settings, somebody please help just bought the car yesterday!

I have replaced the brakes and rotors, tires are not worn. I would like to know if it could be cv joint? also replaced all motor mounts and transmission mount. It only shakes at 70 mph and when I brake.

no fuel no spark before the timing had went out and was changed it had made a funny rattling noise when taking off the tow truckat that point it will not start up again could this be the anti-theft PCM or one of the fuel relays / ECU

My Mitsubishi galant is automatic, it leaks and when I drive it, the engine stops running.There is also white smoke coming from under the hood. I bought this car used but there seems to be so many issues with it. I assume I have to change the water pump but is there anything else I can do to fix my car?

3.8L V6 6cyl engine. Replaced with a clean used one. All parts and wires put back. The starter is good. However, although the starting sound is ok, it wont start?! Why? What should I do, please?

every min sound come

during the summer my floor got wet when i turn on the ac that was five months ok

Who: 2003 Mitsubishi Galant Es 4cyl.
1. Whiny noise high pitch when the accelerator is pressed.
Action1: (Shop said it was unfounded)
Action 2: I tune it out with the radio

2. I started hearing a rattle and then it completely started rattling.
Action1: added more engine oil 10/30 and it seemed to stop for awhile.

Action 2: added full quart of auto trans fluid.

3. I took it in because I did not want to deal with the hassle of fluid swap. I don't understand why it would be so damn low.

My car has been running good. Until now.

As of 0202 today
It has supposedly
1. transmission service
2. Midas oil changed and fluid swapped
3. Muffler shop replaced the front cat with manifold but removed the head shield
4. New radiator due to leaking
5. New 02sensor waterpump and timingbelt alternator

No codes pop up and no icons on the dash.

However I have placed about 7,000 miles since April and the work above was done in June.

There is no fluid leaking nor seeping anywhere.


It's been driving okay I never go above 3500rpms. I was entering this evening the on ramp which is not even steep and it got to 40mph and choked. It got stuck at 3500rpm and would not go past 45MPH.
I ended up getting off the next exit and coasting it . It had no problem speeding up to 50downhill and the got stuck at 55 and would not go faster rather it slowed down. After that on flat 30-40was the fastest. I parked it and added the 1qt transmission fluid and the rattling continued. . I hear the rattling from the front cat. I also checked for codes on the OB2 and nothing. Voltage check verified 13.88v for my alternator which is what is marked last time the shop looked at it. The transmission mount looks without removing all ok it's not doing the clicking rattling.

Do I add more transmission fluid? Will that help? This is my only car. I don't understand why it's having a hard time shifting from 2K to 2500 to 3K to 3500 rpms and the same for 40.

It got me down highway 1 twice in the last two weeks round trip plus SF... And countless times into solano area. If I let it sit a day will it make it better?

What can I do to trouble shoot this so at least I can get to work?

Hi, as above I have changed the fwd/aft eng mounts as the fwd was u/s. this improved the shake a bit. but I notice that if i put it in reverse the shudder is nearly all gone, but if I put it into drive the shudder is most definite,some days it is not as prominent as others but is always there ,also while trans is cold and I pull up a little bit rapid the release of top gear is a bit of a klunk ...I suspect sticking valves but not sure.


I replaced the switch, that did not fix it.The bulbs are still good.

The bulbs look like they are still good!

bought this car from dealer in 06,trying to sell,had a potential buyer who brought to his mechanic,and noticed a lot of rust on gas and brake lines

this car was bought used from adealer,do not live by the water,trying to sell it,and noticed this problem by a potential buyer

I replace the coolant whenever it is below the max line. Whenever I let my car idle for longer than 4 minutes, the temperature gauge rises and I hear my radiator turn on. I turn on the heat to let some hot air escape and eventually the needle goes back to the middle. In a drive thru it is like a sauna if with the windows all down. Can someone please help point me in the right direction?

My car had a recent timing belt change, coolant flush and water pump replacement. Since then, the heating system is not working as expected. On internal roads, the air coming in is mostly cool or cold depending on the temperature outside (at the highest heat setting), on the highway, it does start heating up after some time but the heating is very mild (think warm at the highest heat). The mechanics who changed the timing belt say that it's an issue with some valve which isn't opening completely and the dashboard might have to be opened up completely to fix it, everything else in the car looks fine to them. Any suggestions?

new fuel pump, relays ok. no power where it plugs into top of pump. is there something else that I am missing

I had alternator & battery replaced 72hrs ago. Since I've had that done my car vibrates (shakes) when I turn on air conditioning or heater. It's every time I turn it on also. I was told by a shade tree mechanic it could be spark plugs, I was told by another I need to clean throttled body & air filter. I had a tune up about 9months ago, so I'm leery on it being dirty.