Mitsubishi 3000GT SL QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Were good but still cleaned. It doesnt start first time usually takes two to three times. Once iet starts i.can rev all the way out. I try to move an it loses power an starts idling funny. Not sure what my issue is please help
It initially only stalled when coasting to a stop. Now on 100 degree days it stalls even while accelerating. On cool days, e.g.when it rains, and at night it doesn't stall. I work overnights and am personally nocturnal so I don't drive much during the day. There is no engine light or code. When it stalls it's exactly as if I'd turned the ignition off and I can turn the car back on after one or two attempts. The mechanic said when they tried to connect to the computer they got zero communication the first couple of times. They want to replace the ignition because if you tap the key the car does turn off and said bumps in the road could trigger the stall. I tried this and found that it had to be a hard tap, and since I drive the same places at night and during the day the bumps should be the same so I don't see why time of day would affect it. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your time and help.
Usually the warning light (SRS) goes out within a few seconds after you start the car..it is remaining on and I think it has something to do with the air bag system....HELP!!!!!
All possible causes for limp mode have been checked. The TCM has blown chip. Does the replacement TCM have to be reset or programmed by a dealer before it will work when installed
Automatic...when put into reverse or drive car looses power and moves very slow.bought car cheap,had no transmission,bought rebuilt tranny,changed fuel filter,new plugs,did compression check and all is good there ,and timing is correct,new plug wires ..the car ideals fine and revs up fine and shows no codes on reader..im thinking its a sensor but which one?
Be a fuse or is it my alt?
Why does the oil light come and stay on?
i changed the oil today and my car still smokes and i figure could be the rings or the valves is there any other reasons it could smooke ......???????
Runs great until you shut it off then won't start back till it cools off
I was hooking up a sound system and I accendently touched positive and negative. They come from the battery. After that my stereo and my power seats won't work and my dome lamps. Every fuse is good. It works when the car is on only. So it's something that blew out.
replaced ecu, intake motor? and now the throttle body? isn't this excessive? is now saying the car was from California and theres something about the emissions control? I am not buying it.
It starts but then shuts off after a few seconds, or sooner if I let off the clutch or step on gas.
Looking to change the trans. filter. Do I need a pan gasket or just use black RTV? Thanks.
headlight doesn't go down without getting stuck
A couple of weeks ago, in order to start my car I would turn the key over and pump my clutch until my car turned over. But before it would start I would hear nothing but a click from my engine every time I engaged the clutch. Some times I could be doing this for 5min or even 2 hours. Then I replaced the starter and it worked for a little bit but when your turned the car over your would hear some grinding and the engine stuttered a little bit. Then it wouldn't turn over at all. I took the car to auto Zone and had the battery, starter, and alternator tested the first two passed but the alternator didnt.. Then I would basically only be guaranteed 1 start out of my car a day because if I went to the store and turned my car off I wouldn't be sure if my car would start again. I've tried jumping my car from multiple cars as well as push starting my neither of these methods have helped me get my car up and rolling this weekend I spent 2 days taking my starter back off and having it retested which it passed, flushing my radiator because it was foaming and it seems like my muffler seems to be stuttering to while I'm drivong , and clipping the ends of the battery cables because of the battery corosion. I'm at my wits end can any help
And why do I have white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe?
I am agonizing for almost a week over the decision on if i should purchase a 1998 mitsubishi 3000GT or not. I have found a pristine/immaculate one with only 33,000 miles on it. it was garage kept and maintained and is spotless inside and out...a beautiful looking car that i'd love to own. Have had dozens of people tell me DON"T DO IT!!!! they say this car will wind up being a headache and money pit....that it wasn't well built is known for too many issues and the parts are going to be expensive and hard to get especially as more years pass. I was determined to still get it and then started to think rationally and not be cluded by the excitement of owning it for it's beauty. What do the experts say here??? i already have my dream car/ charger...but did want this. It would be my 2nd car but would be my primary use car especially come winter when i garage keep the charger. please...some serious input...is it too much of a gamble? i am excited to go grab this car up wit
hin the next day or two....price is 13,000 but it's not whether it is 10k or 20k...it is if i am looking at alot of issues or does this car stand the test of time. it was kept up very well by folks who just wanted to own it...drove it gently and garage kept. under the hood has been updated as far as hoses etc and new timing belt.
and the add coolant lights are on and the volt meter is at 8 volts.
These codes came up and my car is running really rich. The person that I bought it from said he replaced part of the exhaust because of a leak. I just cleared the codes and my car started stalling after that all the way home. It was idling way to low. It finally stopped stalling and is idling just fine. It usually runs fine with no problems but I wanna fix it. Any suggestions?
here's everything I can eliminate right off the back: Spark plugs, spark plug wires, oil, solenoid, bank2 sensor2 02 sensor, spark plugs, and ignition coils. The check engine was on before I changed all of this and is now off, but still absolutely no difference in performance. it turns on good, when I put it in drive and hit the gas it barely moves until I push it all the way down. theres slight knocking in the engine but it comes and goes, I tested the pressure also and its good, so the engine still has power. what would it be!!?
I was driving home from work and was going between 45 and 50 MPH, when I heard a slight pop. From there the engine seemed to have cut off, and all the dash lights popped on. I then slipped the car into neutral and tried to start it but it sounded like the starter was not engaging it just whirled. I then popped the hood looked and on the driver side of the engine I could see a pulley had melted through the dust cover below the timing belt. Once I got it pulled back to the house I pulled off the dust cover to find that the Timing belt tensioner bolt had worked its way out and popped off, allowing for the timing belt to slip off. Repositioned the crank and the cams to align with the marks on the block installed a new bolt for the tensioner and put the timing belt back on. Now when I turn the key to attempt to start it there is a clicking sound from the throttle body and the car just whirls. The starter is engaging as I watched the pulleys move as we attempted to start the car. It is like it is not getting any spark or fuel. Every so often it will pop in the exhaust. I unplugged the EFI fuse and the clicking stopped. I traced the clicking down to a piece that I do not know the name of just below and behind the intake hose on the throttle body. Please help this is my work car and my wife really needs her van for the kids while I am at work and I don't like leaving her without a way to go.
Thank you for your time.
My indicator light came on the dash. The fluid was ok so I took it to my mechanic who told me that it was the coolant indicator.I was told the sensor was in the overflow container. I paid $45 for the part and 45 for the labor. The light was still on so I was advised to take it to the dealer who told me it was the washer fluid sensor, so they have ordered the windshield washer container which has the sensor attached. They said they would drop the $95 diagnostic charge and it would cost me $145 to replace this part. I really have been through hell for this. Am I being ripped off again?