Mercedes-Benz E320 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have the fault codes:po753-758-763-743.what my next step can be;
i checked the solenoids are working,but it want shift,and still gives me the codes for solenoids.do i have to reprogram it at the dealer,or there another to reprogram it by my self.
They replaced water cap and flush, still continues, intermediately, when stationed for a while, now they say its the water pump housing need to be replaced I don't think they know what there doing
After driving for 1 hour car will no start. Leave it to sit overnight and the car starts.I changed the CPS and still the same situation
The complete dash goes blank and sometimes it start and shut off immediately.
The humming or idoleing sounds are only heard during the blank dash. What could cause this it has approx 74,000 miles?
How do I bench test the coils?
I was told I needed a transmission speed sensor?..help?..the are trying to charge 4000.00
the brake light switch first with an after market and OEM brand, but lights still come on. The brakes will work, but the brake lights do not come on when the warning lights are lit up. They are no codes that come up on my OBD scanner. Any advice would be greatly appreciated...thanks!
It smelled like electrical fire but no flames just smoke and burnt fuses. I am scared to replace fuses and drive it because I don't want it to catch on fire. Have not looked behind fuse box yet (would have to take dash apart I think) It was smelling like this for a while before I noticed the smoke. Had other fuse problems in the back. It got wet under back seat and engine and headlights wouldn't shut off. It dried out and everything was ok until I started smelling that smell and then the smoke and fuse problem. I don't know what it could be except a shortage maybe. I guess I need an electrical mechanic to look at it for me. Just can't afford it right now. Anybody had this problem before? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Battery was down and jump started, car runs fine with no problem but red light on dash board comes on and states that take to shop.
I used an oil filter from autozone that seemed to not really fit the filter tube snug.
I also used 5 quarts of 20-50 conventional oil and 1 quart of 15-40 oil for turbo engines.
the unit will not turn on stays in the off mode the button don't respond at all, and when turn off the ignition i can hear a clicking sound coming from where vents are
while driving the symbol F appeared - message 3 days for service, what service is needed
just had the valve seals and breathing tubes replaced and now the oil leak is even worse than before. mechanic said may be oil pan, but I don't want to put more money into the car if that's not it.... mechanic put dye in to see where the leak is actually coming from but I have been away and haven't had them look at the car, they're not open on weekends.