Mercedes-Benz C220 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have a new compressor ready to go in, but I was curious to see if it was something more simple wrong before I install it. The system is completely charged but the AC clutch will not engage. I put a gauge on the low pressure side and it pegged the needle past the red zone side. Could it be a bad clutch or a relay or something else. Please advise. Thanks for your your help.
Hello. Again, I have a 1996 mercedes benz C220. It has 250,000 miles on it. And its fan belt keeps coming off. I thought it might have been the belt; so I purchased a new one. And then I put it back on; but it came off again within few seconds. Can someone tell me how I can fix this? Please? Thank you very much.
Catalyst, egr and 2nd air are the 3 test the computers not performing, on a 1996 there can only be 2. Ive tried the drive cycle a couple times but its still not passing.i need to smog vehicle. What can I do?
It starts up just fine and the fuel filter was recently replaced as well as wires and plugs are on their way to getting replaced.
Shifting appears normal for first and second gear, except it occurs somewhat faster than desired. But in going into third gear, engine revs up and transmission slips before engaging the gear. Third to fourth shift appears normal. Error Code P1700 is shown on diag read-out. What is our best solution to eliminate this ? The only way to avoid this when driving is to release the throttle pressure when second gear has shifted to allow third to "drop into place".
Coolant light intermittently comes on, added more coolant and water and drove for about 3 months when light came on again. Refilled but this time I notice slow water leakage. Car wouldn't start next day then started a few days later. Notice water leaks only after car is driven. Stopped driving it for now.
temp gauge shows normal temp 60%, pegs out in red or a little below 120c 40% of running time. When 120c or in red, front 2 fans run and a/c temp gets warm, but motor temp shoes normal with laser temp gauge. Have replaced 2 temp sensors and related parts. I think there is a short between gauge and sensor. No rime or reason to when it acts up, cold- hot - wet - dry, etc. help
The main wire harness has been replaced because the wire insulation crumbled and fell off. I have also replaced the Mass Airflow Sensor. The engine surge started before I replaced these items.
It reverses just fine but in drive it has a harder time and I feel like the gears are not grabbing.
I have to rev the engine pretty high for it to finally move then when it does it feels like its dragging.
I have a leak somewhere at the back of the motor it runs down the side of the bellhousing it's coolant but I can't see where it's from.
Does anyone know how to fix it or how much it costs? Thanks
front an do the front of the compressor turn.
when I tried starting it would not pick up, why?
1995 model benz c200 can start but cutting off
The sensor was reading it was overheating and the ca was cool to touch for over a month. Suddenly, the boiling is heard very shortly after starting the car. Strong smells of anti-freeze and white smoke coming from the right side near the wind-shield. This is no where near the water PumP, thermostat, or radiator. Its closer to the reserve. Dont see any aPParent leakage. What could this be? The hood is still cool to touch!
Blower motor was making a whistling noise and it has stopped working. Mechanic said I need to replace both the motor and the resister. He was able to by pass something and make the blower works and blow low heat. Why would I need a new blower if its still blower air? I can understand replacing the resister. Can you clarify for the blower motor?
oil water mix overheating
The air blows out cold when the heat is on and it does not blow out strong
can't open the trunk.
Does the system need bleeding if so where from thanks woody
the horn blows when i squeeze the stering wheel. the lights come on if I dont line the light switch up just right.
I have a 1995 Mercedes Benz C220 with 80,000 miles. The check engine light is always on for a transmission down shift cable issue. The issue is my car's transmission does not shift smoothly from low to high gears but after a quick accelerated start the car drives smoothly but the engine light always stays on. This all happened when the old worn out transmission down shift cable was replaced with a new one which has been checked again when this problem surfaced. How can I get the problem resolved? Appreciate your help as I have spent enough to try to get this problem fixed.
tried to recharge system however still wont engage
Can't get it to pass smog because 3 "Not Ready" indicators are showing on the OBD II. I ran the car for ~ 800 miles over the past week still no reset
my mechanic have fixed this once he said it's something to do with flaps. but after 2 years it gave out again. my car has 185k miles paint is fading and i'm not sure if it's worth to fix the air conditioner for this car. The heat comes and goes it that not do it every time.
i search after the contact imobilizer and it doesn't has one
Last week engine turned over but would not start, but then did. Happened again this week and Autoelectrician not MB expert but tested sparking. OK. All lights working, not battery. I read it could be remote batteries getting old and not reading code so followed advice and car started. (Happy!) Then today car just died and came to a halt while driving. Had to tow home. What could this be?
I went on a trip last week, all of a sudden it was working. I stopped to get gas, when I started the car to leave the gag station it wasn't working again. the digital milage and trip odometer along with lights work fine. Where do I start, the radiator was replaced recently.
i had a blowout on the rear passenger side and did alot of damage i have replaced the bent and broken parts.