373
questions

switch is set to off not door. lights at the bottom of the door stay on and are draining the battery we took the bulbs out but how do we fix it to where the lights work when set on door?

I have a U0101 code loss of comunication with the tcm, where is it located and what would be my problem

Problems which includes; repairs, fuel consumption

It has 3 not ready checks: catalyst, evap sys, O2 sensor. I installed a new battery about 3 months ago, before that I had to jump start the battery a few times. Since the new battery and the initial inspection, I've driven about 2000 miles but these 3 areas won't reset. I've tried the drive cycle couple times also. What can I do to fix this problem? Is there a cheap fix? I

I just changed the plugs and fuel pump. The car once put on gear does not move

Spark plugs have been changed which cured it for a few weeks but its now back. It happens in all gears apart from 1st. doesn't happen all the time. The air flows have been sprayed with cleaner as has the MAF Sensor. The coil pack has been changed before i had the car.

I am about to change the ignition leads. Could it be anything else.

The alarms goes off by itself, sometime 4 and 5 times a day. Sometimes it will go off and then stop going off without me hitting the button.

drove car into flooded street fully submersed

Happened twice while on the Interstate. The second time it died completely and will not fire back up

Engine experienced Catastrophic engine failure due to no oil. Need a new engine to be put in. Would you recommend getting a good used engine or a new one out in. What cost should I expect it to be.

This shop i went to said it would be 870 to 900 bucks...is that a rip off?

wot am I missing or wot else could be the problem.

Already changed coil no luck.

I left my parking brake on while I drove 3 miles at 40 mph & now my brakes squeal when I back up. Thank you

All controls are working and compressor seems to be engaging.

Yesterday, I started it and turn it off, started it and turned it off, tryed to restart it again but it wouldn't. The gauges began to quiver and flutter and go up and down for a minute or so. After that, they went back to normal and the car started right up. The battery is a new NAPA Legend. The car never needs to be jumped in order to get it to start. The car also stalled at a traffic light the other day but started right back up when I turned it over. The car acts like this almost every use.

2005 mazda 6 4 cylinder

My problem stated yesterday morning. I started my car yesterday morning for about 15 min. Very could here in Ottawa, Canada. Go back to start later and It took the 3rd try to start. Drove to mall. Car would not start again. I had it towed to Garage. Tow truck driver tried to start my car and it started. Turn off car and tried to start again and failed to start. Garage said it was fuel pump. I have very low mileage on my car. Garage did diagnostic test and said my fuel pump is not working. I was checking for recalls on my car but non came up. Very expensive to fix.

This started after the bearings were changed. The ABS and DSC light are on.

The hesitation can occur while driving, or while idling at a light. It does not seem to happen when idling in park mode. It was initially very intermittent and the dealer could not find a problem on the diagnostic computer The frequency of the problem it still intermittent but has increased significantly after about 4 weeks, so we are going back to the dealer. Any suggestions about what to check?

check engine light stays on and it read that the catylatic converter is not working I don't know what eles to try.

About 10 days ago the dealer changed the transmission fluid. Now after about 20 minutes of driving the cars smells terrible. I pulled the dip stick on the transmission. The fluid looks much cleaner but the smell is horrible. I usually do this job myself, so I know what transmission fluid normally smells like. Does Mazda transmission fluid usually smell like vomit?

only code po303 #3 can shut off in gear usaly fix it not always i am broke down on road now if somebody can tell me what to do to get it going home to a permanet fix

I had some work done in order to clear the check engine light and also to pass the emission test. On the repair report the mechanic said the check engine light may come on again and that it would require a new ABS control module. Even after the repairs totaling $950.00 the car is running rough when stopped or idling.

cuando lo arranco se queda y despues de 3000 rpm es que responde le meti un escaner me sale sensor 2 incompleto y sale el otro que dise calentador sensor 2 completo me gustaria saber cual de los dos sensores de escape es el que esta malo gracias por su pronta alluda

I just got this car, and I chose the 4cyl. because it's NOT the timing chain rattling, oil-leaking v-6...however every where I look at forums and personal posts, the shitty front wheel bearings are mentioned. Your website is head and shoulders above most other sites, I was wondering about the omission, Thanx.

what should I do in detail so I can know how to spend my money the right way I really need the best answer thank you

no check engine light on but the fluid is dirty