My main relay isn't getting power to turn my car on. When I bought it they bypassed the relay by winding copper around the terminals. The CE code was saying that the ECU has been staying on and killing my battery. I had it rigged to work but I just want it fixed. I have a bigger blue wire coming from my ignition harness, and I know that's the issue. I've traced it to around the ECU location, but can't get further in without tearing my dash apart. The wire that isn't getting voltage on the relay side is a small hello with 2 silver dashes. If anyone can think of anything PLEASE help me out.

I need to take out a loan to get my undercarriage replaced and I have no idea how much its going to cost. I failed inspection because I was told I have giant rust holes that are dangerous to anyone looking under the car.

Idle has been erratic for at least a year and the engine light is on because is usually too high

Hi. My 2005 mazda 3 has a problem. All at once the indicator turn signals(on dash), air con and climate temp signal stopped working. I have checked all the fuses which are fine. P.s, the indicator outside the car works fine. Please help.


Shakes a lot.

I hear this noise everyday.

The noise is coming front of the car like there is something loose.

I have a 07 Mazda3 2.3. While changing from park to reverse motor jerks as well as going from reverse to drive and back.

Driving home today the AT warning light came on. The car felt like it got jerked. No noise it just felt odd. Light wasn't on for long but it kept happening. I pulled over turned off engine. When I tuned car back on put it in drive, light to signal in drive, neutral or reverse didn't come on. The AT light was back on but now the check engine and TCS/DCS Indicator lights were on too. I made it home. Can I drive the car? On average what is the cost for repair? AT Automatic transaxle is what my manual says

In any gear, at any RPMs, at any engine temperature, if I apply the accelerator normally, the car bucks violently. I can overcome it somewhat by increasing the RPMs to 4000-5000 and slowly engaging the clutch but it's still rough. At idle it hunts at low RPMs between 500-800 at about a 1 second interval, never settling. Vacuum on the manifold at idle goes between 15-18 rhythmically. MAF sensor, clutch, and spark plugs have been replaced recently but did not change the symptoms. Cleaned the throttle body with SeaFoam spray. I ran the throttle idle calibration and it helped the idle a little but driving is still not any better. Nothing seems to change the way it runs. Any ideas?

My a/c stopped working. a/c coil bad. replaced w new coil, new pulley w bearing, new clutch plate w (old) spaces, new a/c stretch belt.
drove it about 5 miles, a/c stopped working. Clutch plate turned intermittent. installed (new) spacers which were thinner than old ones. heard noise when a/c turned on. replaced spacers again ( one new, one old) noise stopped, clutch engaged. let a/c run for 20 minutes, but a/c clutch and compressor stays on continuously....afraid pressure will continue building up and rupture a/c hose.

driving up to NY from DC car was fine the after going up a hill it would rev hi--5,000 rpm, but no acceleration over 40 or so. I shut it off for 20 min, added STP gas treatment. Car ran perfect for the rest of the trip and ever since. Could it have been bad gas?

We bought a car off EBay, and the passenger side wiper didn't work. Its like it wants to work like a small tick when we use the other one on the driver side. So I was wanted to get an estimate on how much it will possibly cost to fix or if it is just a simple fix that I can do at home?

Headlights burn out after 2-3months. Same for backup lights.

Car was working good idling bad on its own an jus stop works engine crank not starting crank an cam sensor was change checks for broken wires were made wat could be the problem

its about 1 inch in diameter and may be for breathing? I found the hole the other day and it was plugged with what looked like a cork screw. I believe it was plugged when I had an oil change. I have not had any accidents or went over any major bumps. Should this hole even be there?

My Mazda takes a while to pick up speed if I try to hit the gas to go fast the rpm revs up. My clutch goes in to gear just fine it just takes time to pick up speed. And on an incline its worse. The rpms just rev up.

When I start the vehicle, there is a noise coming from under the hood, kind of like a swiping noise from a belt maybe? (not screeching or ticking.. but a swiping) It about 2 miles from when I turn it on, and after a while it goes away. This happens every time I start the car. Also, when I start the car, it struggles to stay on. It immediately stalls and then I turn it back on, press on the accelerator and it stays on from there.. One more thing, when I turn the wheel (even parked) I hear a reaming noise for anyway I turn it.. Is that normal? What can all of this be???

My brother replaced my battery and there was a spark and when the new battery was replaced my radio and in car lights won't come on

Replacement clutch Mazda 3 2005

The discoloration is like the rainbow you see in soap bubbles, and it's only on some of the car. In the fall when leaves weren't cleaned off and left on too long, there are impressions from the leaves with the same discoloration on some parts. Not sure how it happened, and a car wash doesn't clean it. What is this and what can I do?

AT light on, but no check engine light or code thrown. Runs fine otherwise. Have replaced all engine/AT mounts (3), speed sensors (AT and engine), and transmission solenoids (D,E), along with new fluid, filter, etc. Tends to go into reverse easier when warmed up. Any ideas?

Iv just full serviced my car n no the check engin light is on n car is missfire but if i drive its it runs ruff till its over 2.500 rmp.