Mazda B3000 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
It doesn't matter if I drive 5 miles or 30 miles, if I stop and turn off the truck on the second stop it won't start. Sounds like not getting fuel. If I let it set for two hours, it starts right up. Spark plugs and wires under a year old. Fuel pump three years old. I never let tank get under half full. As long as I only stop once in a half an hour time, I am ok. No codes showing up.
Replaced plugs wires cap roter now coil still no spark
Started twice today. The third time it would crank but would not start. Let set for a couple of hours then tried again and still crank but would not start.
The wire starts from around the battery and runs under the truck. It pulled out of plug, but I don't know where it plugs in. Help
first time this broke it only had 52000 miles on it just breaks one tooth off stops running dead
I thought I was leaking coolant from the water pump. When I warmed it up to check it wouldn't leak. So I drive it around for 20 min. Nothing.
I have a ride to someone had to get on free way for 10 min. There and back and a trip to orielly and there I checked but nothing.
Oh the way it off orielly I noticed the leak again. It wasn't from weep hole. I checked timing cover but no visible signs.
It looks like its coming from crankshaft. Is that possible?
But when I finally got it to leak again
The battery is hot, headlights work, inside lights work. there is no no sounds from the starter. Someone said the ignition switch is bad.
Let tHe truck sit for a few hours and it will restart with no problems. Have replaced the camshaft sensor. Problem still is there.
Usually after it has run awhile and you stop some where and turn the engine off. when you start again then the RPMS drop to around 5-6 hundred every time you come to a stop.AC will not cool properly. Turn AC off and drive awhile and problem usually stops for awhile.
I accidently touched the starter electrical contact with my metal oil filter wrench and it arched. I replaced the starter relay but there is still no power to the starter, engine will not crank over. I think I tripped the security lock out and would like to know how to reset the security system so the truck will start. P.S.I have checked all of the associated fuses. When I hold the key on the security Icon on the dash blinks fairly fast.
Current codes are P0301, 302, 303, 1121 and now O2Sensor1 Bank 1. Have replaced plugs, wires, coil pack, tps, and injectors on cylinders 1-3. Compression, fuel pressure good no vacuum leaks.
The truck was running alright when it broke down on my wife - accelerator stopped working, power steering went out, and oil gauge was bouncing up and down all over the place. The truck did start a couple times after that, and ran fine for about twenty minutes. Now, it'll crank but it won't start. Guy at Advanced Auto checked alternator, battery, and I'm pretty sure the fuel pump, and they seemed OK. Has anyone else had similar problems?
The check engine light had been coming on routinely, but it was always "emissions leak" or whatever, and I assumed that was due to a new fuel cap. Someone mentioned a possible "idle sensor" issue because the A/C seemed to make it worse. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It has a rough idle loss if power and diagnostics say it has primary or secondary coil and 1 &5 are misfiring I changed coil plugs and wires with no help. Codes 301
the truck was doing fine then the next day went to turn it on to head for work and it wouldn't start at all. this is the first time it did this. i had a mechaniccheck it out and he couldn'tfind the problem either. idk what else to do. help me.
I have just replaced Rotor, cap, plug wires, & plugs. Helped a little, but not enough.
I was told it was my muffler that is making all that noise when my truck runs,, I want to sort of know what kind of prices are outthere for a muffler for my truck
problem just occured yesterday, idles at about 800 rpms ROUGH!! when put in gear. it will try to run but then dies, when i manipulate the throttle manually wide open or half it runs fine but as soon as i let go it will putter out and die if i keep my foot steady on the throttle at 2000rpm it seems to run fine but again when i let off to put it in gear and try to drive it just dies. ( abs and emergency brake light on )
car misfiring underload,replaced plugs and ht leads. car ran perfect for a week, all of a sudden it cut out and would not start, replaced battery still wont start rac came out and said, no spark and no injector pulse. he did not have the right diagnostic machine.so unable to help.has anybody got any ideas. regards dave
It happen every times we stop engine?
Dash light comes on indicating 4 wheel drive has been activated, but it is not in 4 wheel drive. Truck runs fine in normal 2 wheel drive. What could be the reason?
Any pictures of what to look for would help
I drove home, pulled into my driveway and put the truck into Park. I thought. But it didn't seem to go. I shut off the engine. Wish I hadn't. The car rolled backwards. I tried to restart it but it wouldn't even try. Probably has to be in Park to start. Tried starting in Neutral but it won't even click. Transmission fluid seems okay. Couldn't check it running. Just happened tonight.
Had a problem one time, just the other day. Went to start truck at lunch, wouldn't turn over. Lights come on in dash, radio would play, chimes chimed. Made no clicking noise, no trying to turn over, nothing. Went out after work and it started right up. Does this sound more like a relay problem or an ignition problem? truck has a new battery and a new starter. Purchased truck a year ago and had problems with starter then, so replaced. Then before winter came, replaced battery with an Optima.
I towed it back home to run some test. Long story short it has good fuel pressure, and good spark. It will also crank over just fine but I cant get it to start, even with starter fluid. Im baffled? Please help
My windshield has a giant crack in it and i need to replace it but cannot afford a brand new one and need to find something comparable in the junkyard.
The heater screw is loose and dangling. There is a bolt located directly below the heater core - it takes an L wrench (allen key) but will not move. Do i need to loosen this lower bolt? - if so, how?
both motors are from a b3000
The indicator lights are flashing 4 high and 4 low at the same time