Mazda B3000 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
This is a 1994 model with a 6 cylinder engine, air cond', and a standard transmission.It appears that the head on that side will have to be removed to get the water pump out. Thanks Ben
When trying to start truck it 1) cranks right up perfectly, 2) turn key and start is slow like starting with a bad battery but kicks over and starts 3)has a contious clicking noise, won't start 4) does not start have to push/ or jump start fires right up though. Have check most of the normal starting problems already battery Ect ect
i have replaced the battery, and cables, alternator,and fan belt. every time i press my clutch petal and prepare to stop my battery needle plummets, my lights dim. engine almost stalls..any ideas no body i have asked semms to know
I have an elbow that comes out of the lower thermostat housing and connects to the lower radiator hose. There is a line that runs out of the air compressor and right across the elbow. Ive already loosened the line but Im having trouble getting the elbow to clear everything that is still in the way such as the bracket that holds the top pulley which sits next to the air compressor. Surely I'm not going to need to disassmble the entire front end just to get this one small pulley screwed in. Im replacing it because I had a pin hole leak. Can anyone help me? I can describe everything needed to know including part numbers and schematics. and even photos. Im getting desperate here.
Just replaced front left wheel bearings for a previous noise (grinding like) problem... it fixed it for a week (150 miles), now it's making a humming noise... it gets loudest at 40 MPH...
Could it be a cheap after-market brand bearing causing it? made in China, for O'Reilly's Parts Store...
is the linkage bad are what ps help
week. was told to clean wires on starter. thats what computer came up with. checked for fuel and spark and have both. new battery so cranks fine.
While working on my mazda the accelerator cable came off the accelerator I put the cable back in the slot at the top of the accelerator. Does it nnnd anything else done to secure it.
Any way runs rough when cold worms up smoths out but still has small miss like carb. With no choke
I was driving down the road headed home when I noticed a light sounding knocking noise that knocked faster when I sped up and slowed when I slowed down. At home I put my truck in neutral and revved up the motor and the knocking noise went up with my rpms. It seems to becoming from around flywheel, clutch, pressure plate area. It has a brand New flywheel and pressure plate they were replaced about a month ago and everything has been running smoothly besides it grinds shifting into 2 gear which started right after I replaced everything. Any ideas? Also if it helps diagnose the issue the slave cylinder has been replaced 4 times in 3 years. Once with me and 3 times with the previous owner
I am a Saturday mechanic. My truck has been on the fritz for a few months now so I let it sit for about 3 months with not starting it.
I had problems with my truck running rough and a cylinder misfire. I replaced the dist. cap and plugs and cables but still giving a misfire. I also had chocolate milk in my oil which I believed was a leaking head gasket. I put a fresh oil change in and still problems.
Today I decided to work on it 3 months later. I was planning on using Blue Devil head gasket sealer. First I did a radiator flush with prestone flushing agent and water. After 30 minutes of driving it around and letting the engine reach temperature, the truck is running like the day I bought it. No more white smoke, no water in my tailpipe, no idling rough, no misfire, and no check engine light. Was this a cure? or am I just driving a ticking time bomb?
I plan on taking out the water and flushing agent and filling it back up with 50/50 solution later on today.
Coil, plugs,fuel pump,
eough shift speedo not working od light flashing
Seemed much better for a short while (1 day) after I replaced fuel fiter, but started back again.
Was good for a day, now doing it again. Any help on where to go next?
Steady throttle. If you punch down it will backfire and then accelerate
Like I said, it runs and starts up perfectly once the engine is warmed up. If I turn the truck off and go to start it up half an hour later, it will start up with no problem. But if I wait too long, it gives me trouble. It just clicks and clicks each time I turn the key, and I have to turn the key at least 10 times very fast and hold it on the last turn before it wants to start cranking. When it clicks like this, the dash lights and headlight dim. The battery was tested and is supposedly fine, the alternator isn't an issue because the battery tested at 100% and the gauge says it's charging. The starter was replaced, as well as the battery cables, but I still have the issue. It didn't start doing this until I drove the truck for 8 or so hours straight when I went out of town. I honestly have no idea what else I can check. It takes a jump, and everything points to the battery, but the battery tested fine, and I don't want to replace the battery if I don't need to. What is wrong with my truck?
When you turned the engagement switch on you could here it click now nothing. could it be a solonoid, fuse or switch?
Battery is new. Started 2 months ago fine.