Lexus RX300 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I just purchased a 2000 Lexus rx300, it sat for close to a year, I put a new battery in it, it starts right up, idles like a new car, but when I went to drive it, if u give it gas it spits and sputters and won't go anywhere, let off the gas and it idles just fine.... Has anyone had a similar problem??? This is the first Lexus I've owned, it could be numerous things, I'm mechanically inclined but was hoping someone had similar problems and new the solution..... Any info would be greatly appreciated....
The audio is only working intermittently. It is getting power, and the fuses seem to be okay. The radio, cd, and tape players act like they work, but no sound comes out, not even crackles.
Also, possibly unrelated, but the back right door lock will not work with the power locks.
Any ideas on what what this might be, or how to fix it?
The locks on the SUV have to be locked manually. None of them will open or close with the automatic unlock/lock function on the key. The only lock that works correctly is the tailgate lock. I have looked on other forums and it seems this is a common occurrence with the 2000 RX 300.
On road loose metal nuts bolt sound. Shop said bolts loose. Noise still there I'm afraid to drive. What all is taken loose or off to replace rear valve cov gasket. Going back today do I just ask them to recheck everything they disconnected or took off? Help please someone who knows not from state of Mississippi. They were hush hush on the loose bolts. Felt like what else??? Please I would appreciate some helpful advice. They didn't do any ck for codes. I don't have over $900 again.
I drove to a gas station got gas then it wouldn't start. my Lexus has 125000 miles on it. I recently replaced both knock censors.
I ck it have following cods p1130 air/fuel sensor ,circuit bank 1 sensor 1 MOD 10 , P0300 random mis Fire dectected pending, P0303 cylinder 3misfir decked landing MOD 10 ,P0305 cylinder5 mis Fire dectected MOD10 ,P1130 air/file sensor pending MOD 10. I have replaced all spark plugs spark plug ignition coils also replaced O2 bank1 sensor1 but still have all the above cods
my rx300 was involved in a single car rollover accident, with what appears to be little to no structural damage as well as obvious dents and cosmetic issues such as pushed in windshield and no side view mirror, is the car worth putting the money in to fix?
doesn't do it all the time and when it does act up od does not work.keeps throwing codes like miss fires,coolant closed circuit and more.had maf replaced,coolant sensor,timing belt and coils and plugs.acts up more under 50mph.will be driving and just like you turned key of then on quickly.every thing else stays on like radio and electronics,but motor just cuts out.spent 2000. already.
What should be the reading of O2S B1S2?
The readings I get, at idle, temperature 190*, vary from 0.000 to 0.010 to 0.770.
The car while driving sets P0125 code first then later will set P0172. While the car is sitting still, at idle it only trips the P0172. However, leaving idle for another 5 to 10 minutes it starts setting the misfire codes (P0300, etc).
I had a check engine light come on over a month ago. My scanner said it was a P0171 $10 generic code, bank 1. So I changed the air fuel ratio sensor. The code cleared, then I had a pending code for, I think P1153 incorrect signal pulses to ECU on bank 2, so I changed the bank 2 air fuel ratio sensor. The codes reset for about a week then bingo I now have P0171 $10generic, back again. I removed the MAF and cleaned it with MAF cleaner. It is the original MAF sensor. The vehicle has 137,000 miles on it. I am retired and really do not drive it much. I bought it 6 years ago and only put 20,000 miles on it. I do change oil and filter every 4 months. The air filter I just changed. I did notice that a hose just above the filter and before the MAF sensor was off. It must have been off for since my last air filter change, which was about a year ago. I did check the intake manifold and valve body area with carburetor cleaner and I did not see any change in my idle. The idle is a little rough and you can smell a rich exhaust gas. I did check a lot of the small vacuum lines and they look okay, nothing brittle with good connections. Not sure where to go from here.
I read several articles on this subject. I am seriously considering getting some injector cleaner and adding it to my fuel, also I was going to get some fuel conditioner. The next step it to have the fuel pressure checked.
Any help would be appreciated.
Because the oil did not register I added extra oil. What are the ramifications
Squeaking from front of car under hood. I hear it mostly when the car is cold. Could it be the timing belt? Had it changed at 95k.
Mechanic says both valve cover gaskets need to be replaced. He showed me, and it did seem like both were oozing. Quite a bit of oil on my garage floor. Coincidence?
Is this a fair price. I have not been experiencing any problems. He said should do before there is a problem?
When I fill my tan, my gas gauge only shows 1/3 full. This is a new thing after 200,000 miles.
My 2001 Lexus RX300 makes this beeping sound that seems to be coming from around steering wheel area. Every time the beeping sound comes on my cruise control no longer works and I have to press the gas petal (vs. cruising obviously) my steering wheel also feels like I have less control. I was told there was a recall on the Toyota ignition. Could this be the problem on my car?
Floor, and not responding when brake is applied. Took to break masters and was told it may be electrical issue and have something to do with abs?? But can't pin point and sending me to dealership?? Any ideas??
Started hearing loud noise from rear, growling/humming/?? Sound and vibration that stays constant but will level off once cruising at a set speed, and get louder if and when accelerateing. How can I determine if its hubs/bearing issue or bad tire issue, as I've read that both of these issues can sound similar. Can the average Joe do this at home, or does this need to be done in shop setting with a certified mechanic.
Is at the correct level. is there a fairly easy way to rule out possible issues and find the problem for the average car owner. Or does this need to be done in shop setting by cert mechanic?