Land Rover Freelander QuestionsRefine by vehicle
The key will not turn to open driver & pass doors. Rear right passenger door can't open from outside & with child safety on, it won't open from inside. Rear window does not close completely. Pls help
i have to go every week to diagnostic to drive my car without problem
Please notify me if you need a picture
changed out fuel pump already car is still stalling after warmed up
It ran fine and I shut it off, and now it will not start. The starter cranks, but the engine won't turn over. I have noticed a minor oil leak since the problem started. I checked the relays, and they are all good. Please help with this issue.
replace the coil pack 3 times it runs good for a wile but keep going bad, the coil pack i mean. what could be causing this . plus is giving me a p1471 reading as well should i replace the airflow sensor
I'd like to replace them with extractors twin pipes cobys and mufflers
i replaced the two vis motors and there was motor oil inside the intake not sure what is causing that can anyone help the codes are still on
I replaced the window regulators on a Landrover Freelander and after i was done working on the regulator and I attached the switch and connectors back in place my vehicle began to lose power. So I know there is a short circuit somewhere. I read after the fact that it was due to not disconnecting the Negative terminal. So what I started doing was that I would just charge the battery and the issue would disappear for months. The problem is back now but i need to recharge every other day or when it is below freezing. I am considering replacing the power window switches, connectors, and possibly the module for the Driver's side which is where i did all my work.
My second problem is that I had my friend help me charge my car and he connected the jumper cables to the wrong post. Causing my battery to die. I purchased a new one and when I attempt to start the vehicle the only thing that happens is that it wants to start but never engages the motor.
I've checked all fuses and inside the car and under the hood and they all are good.
This problem occurs daily. Doesn't matter how far you drive, could be a mile or 100 miles. Turn it off and it won't restart. Turns over good, but no ignition. Wait 15 min. and it starts.
I can turn blinker on and want work,you can hear a humming noise.I had flasher checked and the man said it was good
I have had air flow sensors replaced, gas cap is fine .
Hi, I have a 2003 2.5L gas Freelander that a month or so ago when started exhibiting intermittent severe losses of power. I have an inexpensive Blue Tooth code reader that I use with the Torque app on my smart phone. Various fault codes come up equating to one or both banks "too lean" then various misfires.
When started from cold it starts up as normal for the first 5 to 10 seconds (must be starting on some sort of predefined rich starting mixture and control) then when it would normally back down to idle rpm it begins to run very rough and often dies. Pressing the accelerator during this drop off has little or no effect. You can hear the extra air flow but the rpms don’t pick up and instead it either coughs and jumps or just dies. At this point if you try starting it multiple times and keep the rpms up during and after the 5 – 10 second startup cycle it will eventually “clear itself” and run pretty normal - for a while.
Then using my code reader and having my son ride along and monitor some of the engine parameters I’ve been able to test drive it and make a few observations: When it’s running well the short term fuel trim on both banks is up around 27%. Then for some reason these trims start stepping down (he can watch them on a graph and they tend to move together in what looks like a stair step pattern) and eventually go to zero. While this is happening the engine loses power and all but dies. Keeping the rpms up can prevent or reverse the step down in trim and roughness. So it seems that higher rpms help the situation but I’m not sure. Also, once the engine is warmed up, shutting it off and restarting always brings it back to normal for at least the first 5 – 10 seconds and often it will continue to run fine for up to 10 minutes or more (as long as it’s not just at idle).
I don’t know which is the cause and which is the effect. The engine control unit seems to be stepping the fuel mixture down to the point that it’s too lean to even run but I don’t know what the root cause is. And keeping the rpms up either mitigates the underlying root cause or puts the engine control unit in some other control “mode” that automatically calls for a richer mixture.
I’ve tested the fuel pressure, looked at the spark plugs, monitored the O2 sensors, cleaned and monitored the mass airflow sensor, looked for vacuum leaks etc. but I’m not sure what to try next.
Oh and by the way, I have had some trouble with the butterfly valves and motors in the plastic part of the intake manifold so they could be acting up again but I’m assuming they couldn’t cause these more serious symptoms?
Anyone have any ideas?
What can be some of the main cause of vechile running hot ?
rear window regulator worked fine when replaced. battery went flat and the window hasn't worked right ever since. have tried to disconnect the battery and reconnect it. window goes up about 4 to 5 inches and then motors right back down. motor seems to move very freely.
When I attempt to start my freelander the engine doesn't turn over but i can hear the timing belts cycling and the starter as well, but after so many attempts i believe the solenoid got jammed and i have also noticed that no electricity circulating threw the spark plugs.
just need to get it through mot then will get it looked at
from the top to the bottom between the engine and transmission at idle speed only.
The cilynders are numbered#1#3#5. The coils and the spark plug wires at # 1 and #3 positions seem to be out of order. What is the correct coil fireing order, as it is mounted from the timing belt side 1-3-5 , or 3-1-5?karl
I want to add a red LED light strip on the outer edge of each door...the aspect exposed when the door is open…where the latch is located. I want these red lights to illuminate with the interior lights when a door is opened...to make open doors highly visible to street bicyclists at night. Easy to wire if I can tap into the switch or activator wiring but where is the switch? No visible spring-loaded button switch anywhere on the door frame. So, where is the switch?
Thermostat housing separated after two weeks of adding coolant to reservoir.
it set code p0171 and p0174