Jeep Wrangler QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Driving and attempt to pass a car on open highway, drivng at40 mph, stomped on gas pedal and gas pedal stuck, drove for 1/4 to 1/2 mile at 80 mph, realized could not descend when let off pedal. Tried pumping brake, kept accelerating down a grade. slammed foot on gas pedal several times, finally gas pedal returned to normal and had control of it.
only have the rear shaft connected..went offroad a while back i think i moved the washer for the rear shaft for the gear box ...jeep vibrates alot on excellerating and uphills ! whats the problem ...i think its not the clutch ! might be something to do with the gasket! but not sure? how do i check to find out?
Heater working but can't get it to open heater vent so it only blows cold. There's no A/C, the defroster works. I
the flap that let's heat into cab is stuck.
I replaced it myself and was unaware of a recall. Will Jeep refund the money for the switch?
I hear a high pitch squeal from the front of my jeep only on acceleration of 35+ mph or more. At low speeds i do not hear it. After i reach 35+ mph it will squeal and continue to do so as long as i am applying the gas pedal. When i let off the gas it will stop all at once. As soon as i apply gas it will go right back to squealing again. I hear nothing like it when its idling. I just installed a new front master barring kit and ring and pinion were good. I was getting a vibration at the same time i noticed the squeal so i took out my front drive shaft and i test drove it and i still have the squeal. Please help me identify the problem.
Vehicle rumbles when driving. Like tire is flat or driving over rocky road. Feels like it's coming from the rear end. Thought it might be tires but they are fine
after OBD check i got these codes what should i do
visual inspection for wiring shows no problem or bent or loose or short
Jeep wrangler 2010 auto transmision 3.8L 4wheel wrangler unlimted sport
Jeep stalls random at idle and running down the road ad there is no trend to when it stalls. Replaced CPS as this is the most common error. Stopped receiving CEL but still stalls? Did wiggle check back to the PCM and not getting a stall until I get ot the PCM and push on the connectors. Could this be the issue or is the PCM rated for an impact and will stop the vehicle? Any help in this area is appreciated.
jeep was running fine absolutely no hard shifting or any sign of trouble.stopped and went in store came out and transmission fluid allover ground. tried to add some to it and it ran right through.
Just moved from 6000 feet to 500 feet jeep starts but really rough do not give it gas or it dies pretty sure I either need to adjust my timing or my air fuel mixture don't know how to do either one
I have replaced. Plugs, coil packs, cam sensor. Crank sensor. And now 4 injectors timing belt was also replaced Still light staying on. Blinks when idling.
Got my oil changed with sluggish 1st gear issues the past year. Codes 12, 33, and 55 came up. Found out at oil change front differential was dry, rear was low with leak. Codes were 12,33,55,& now 52 that disappeared after oil added to front differential. Drove it after fill up. Worked gears with smoothing out in shifting, but slight grinding in 3rd and reverse on and off. Now check engine on whith major sluggish. Parked it, broke, and only have a bridge card. HELP! Appt. with shop in 2 days I have to borrow just to do, any suggestions besides a transmission replacement or rebuild? Most all my sensors plugs and wires replaced trying to figure out the 3 codes.
I think it's the power steering fluid. We put a stop-leak fluid in it, but it's not working? Could it be something else?
My issue:A stuck thurmotat that becomes opened after long period of time and is detected as being open,p0128 trouble code,have caused a radiator to split at the top seam? And begins to leak.
I was told that as a jeep gets older the shims between the cab and the frame fallout is this true
I took my wrangler into the shop to have the rear axle and transfer case replaced. At first the mechanic was going to charge about $4500 for parts and labor. So I found parts at a salvage year for about 1200 total. The mechanic does the work a day after recieving the parts and says his "guys" (more the one person) spent 12 hours ($99 per hour) working on it and is charging $1300 for labor which also included a battery replacement. To my knowledge those are both bolt on part along with the brakes for the rear axle. Am I wrong to assume that I'm being over charged cause I was expecting more like $700 to 800 for the labor.
rebuilt short block engine but still using oil like crazy. New rings twice. Any ideas?
I replaced the ECU, battery is fine also no diagnostic codes come up except code for battery recently disconnected. Please help. I ain't no mechanic. Thank you!
i need to know how to get it crunk so it can be repaired???
rim is 15, and I now have 222/75/15