No noise is heard from the drive train when travelling in a straight path but when taking a turn, a cranky noise is heard from the drive train. The noise intensifies while describing a sharp curve.

Air Bag light keeps coming on, we;ve had it repaired before it was a loose connection under drivers seat. This time we pulled the seat out of the car and no luck could it be under the carpet?

Recently changed a break light bulb could this be the cause and how to fix it?

The locks have been acting up for a while now and I've just come to get used to it, but I'm so tired of locking my keys in my car.
When I unlock the doors with the remote and someone happens to open the passenger door first, the doors will immediately lock afterwards. Then I'll have to start all over.
Sometimes, when I put my key in the ignition, they will all either lock or unlock, depending on whether the were locked or unlocked in the first place.
Sometimes when I'm driving they will randomly lock. I figure it's because my car shakes really bad.
Every time you close the passenger door, they will all lock.
It literally gets stressful and I don't know anything about cars so if someone could dumb it down for me, it'd be greatly appreciated.

cat converter looked reasonably clean , still throaty and lack of power no acceleration ?? checked air intake for splits or cracks found none.

How much does the part and labor cost for this?

I changed the tensioner and idler pully and found the belt was still riding half off the tensioner pully. It appears the crank pully slides in and out and the nut and sprocket are tight.

it is ongoing all the time on acceleration attempts, drives like a slug, even worse attempting any hill climb having to drop back a gear to even just make hilltop.
I have had a air flow meter and purge valve replaced after a diagnostic with no cure, I have put new spark plugs in also.
It makes a deep throaty noise revving up and during acceleration . I noticed today whilst i revved in driveway that it sounded deep throaty noise but during a bit more higher revs it sounded spluttery and sort of tinny sparking noise. best way i could describe it sorry.Hope you can help please as Ive stumped 2 mechanics who helped free of charge.

So I have my top timing cover off and I have my bottom camshaft lined up but my two other pulleys aren't on their timing marks what is the best way to get them on there marks? Just keep using my ratchet and socket to turn the belt till they are in line? The belt didn't break and there aren't any missing teeth it looks like just need to get them in line best way?

The belt was riding half off the serpentine before I replaced the belt tensioner . Now I replaced the serpentine,tensioner and Idler pullyy and the belt is riding on the outside half of the tensioner pully, tried to reposition it but it goes back to having half the belt on it. All the grooves on everything else is lined up and the idler is on the belt completely. I'm afraid to drive it. What can I do?

Why does this happen and how come its not fixed when I see this is a common problem with this make and model?

The engine is turned off, but the brake light stays on.

After an hour on the road traveling a highway speeds (50-70 MPH), the car jerks like it hit something (it did not) and the cruise control disengages and will not reengage for about 10 minutes. (This happened 3 separate times within a week.) Could be the abs engaging which simulates pressing on the brake but not sure. Pretty scary shake when not expecting it. This did not occur without the cruise control engaged? Any ideas?

Daughter pugged in two prong adapter to cause problem..could it be a fuse? Where ? She is way out of town with the car..affair it will short out fan and cause overheating.

I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata. It recently acted like it didn't want to start so I took it to be tested at the auto parts store, where I was told that I had a bad battery. Spent $120 on a brand new battery with warranty. Exactly 1 week later I go out to crank the car early in the morning and it would not crank. Took over 10 tries for it to finally start up. Got the starter tested that evening and everything is testing fine! It is continuing to give me this problem every day every time I go to start my car. I did notice however, if I hold the key a certain way, it's almost like it will catch faster. I have been told numerous things such as timing belt, ignition switch, fuel pump etc. However I don't have money to be playing "process of elimination ".... please help!


Location on motor

Blows cold air before blowing fuse. I have replaced the cabin air filter.

When it starts, it won't idle. I've had the fuel pump replaced but it still happens.

I've taken my car to the dealer several times since I purchased it in 2013. Actually, I purchased it in April 2013, took it back in Sept, then July, then Aug, Feb, April, and now the end of June. I'm so very frustrated. They are saying the turbine blew out. I'm so sick of them! I purchased an additional warranty when I got the car for 100, 000 miles. I'm at 73,000 and they're refusing to honor the warranty. I've been procrastinating on getting a lawyer. In the meantime, I'd like to know how much this kind of repair would cost. They'd sent someone to inspect and diagnose the problem. They said it's the turbine and said what parts needed to be ordered and what it would cost me if they didn't honor the warranty. Yesterday they called and said they need my permission to have someone tear down the valve cover and oil pan. I haven't yet granted permission because my trust and confidence in them is a ZERO. Any information you can offer would be appreciated. Thanks.

Changed brake switch and cleaned gear connectors