This happens all the time when I put in gas the car has a tough time starting once i get it started I need to rev it up for about 30 seconds then slowly take foot off the gas but keep reeving at about 1000 rpm foot on brake then put in drive once it gets going the problem goes away until next trip to get gas, any help is appreciated. Thanks

Took 2005 Santa Fe, 151,000 miles, in for timing belt replacement, water pump and serpentine belt and, A/C compressor replacement, $2,454.00. Mechanic broke motor mount and expects me to paid for this too. Is this normal/expected?

The release cable for my model is on the door and it has stopped working. How much would the repair cost and how long would it take?

I just got some work done on my car. They fixed strut mounts and AC. When driving home the other day, (I had AC, radio and lights on) the engine cut out between gears. It's not gear specific, it happened between 1st and 2nd, 2nd and 3rd, and 3rd and 4th. Only happens with AC blowing. No idea what it could be... With everything cutting like that it leads me to believe it's something electrical. Had a shop check alternator, putting out 13v (little low, but not worrisome). Any ideas? Here is a video of it happening... (delete spaces between dashes.

https :// youtu.be / N6e56rjBn5I

So I have brought my car to the shop a few times now. First my car was stalling out when I would idle. My mechanic just put an additive in and said it was fine. Then it completely died on the highway. They replaced the crankshaft. Then my car decided it wasn't going to pick up speed at all and I found out that the catalytic converter was clogged (probably from the additive) so I got that fixed. Now when I drive it takes longer then normal to speed up. My car is an automatic but it's feels like I'm badly driving a manual. It will rev up between 3 and 5 depending on how fast I'm going then after a few minutes will drop down under 2. Any ideas?

My mechanic told me my engine is full of water. My oil dipstick did not show any signs of water being in the engine. How else can it be diagnosed as full of water?

I had my Hyundai towed to the dealership today bc when I started it this morning the engine light was on and it was making a loud knocking sound. I have a warranty on this vehicle up to 125000 miles. It has about 108000 miles on it. When the mechanic called me to tell me what caused it he said that my engine was full of water and it would not be covered in my warranty. There has been massive flooding here the past few days and I feel like he is just saying that bc he's been diagnosing flooded cars all day. I am just afraid of getting ripped off and want to know how a mechanic would know if there was a flooding issue. Yes, I did go through water but nothing even close to my hood being submerged. Thanks so much for any and all advice or suggestions.

I have replace all sensors - cps, cam, and air flow, replaced all hoses, what would cause this. I have had some say it could be the starter or cylinoid - but was also told no - cylinoid would make a click, no clicks, starter it wouldn't turn over, and it does eventually most of the time

Changed rear brakes rotors calipers and lines but still locking up

Car has 155 thousand miles, all highway, maintained, discovered oil has been collecting in the skid plate. This is the first time there is evidence of a leak left on driveway (which has about 7degree angle, but is regular parking spot for years)Has been going thru oil for years, or 75,000 miles(approx.)never left a drop of evidence until now.

code showing p0335 pd

It drained the battery, and it runs when a charger is put on the SUV. No key in ignition. Brake relay switch was recently replaced (recall), so is it possible they cut or partially cut a wire?

My car failed emission with a code of P0501. Can anyone tell me what this means and about how much it will cost to fix it.

It says there is a speed sensor problem but when I go to stop at a stop light or stop sign, occasionally my car will shut off completely when I go to push the gas pedal. Sometimes it starts rough and I have to pump the gas (while in park) to get it started and continue pumping gas to keep it running. After it's been running for at least 20 seconds, I can put it in drive and it'll be fine. But it randomly dies and starts rough and when it's just sitting, running in park, the engine will run rough and almost die then kick back up. Paid 400$ for a mass air flow sensor (from an auto shop) which is what Hyundai dealership told me was wrong with my car and that did not fix it. Still does the same things it did before. Need help?! Poor commuting college student!!

push the inter button. This only happens when I open the door no interial lights

My 49K santa fe running well, I brought my car to dealer for service Drain coolant, Transmission fluid, steering fluid replace filters. 6000 miles later heard a noise brought to dealer again steering pump needed to be replaced, then when i took the car home 6 days later, I noticed that the car was choking and then the engine light started to blink

We just bought this santa fe with 130K kms. We have noticed a gasoline smell when driving, and it leaves drips sometimes after parked. The drip seems to be coming from the front drivers side, and it's gasoline.

It is a 3.3L V6.

What is damage done to the engine.
Has this motor enough space under valves?
Just peplacing belt probably not working ?
Advice ? What should be replaced ?

When driver side door won't open from outside or from inside but all other door locks work and the safety lever on this door will not come all the way back. The usual culprit is a small helical spring on the latching mechanism. In my case the tip had broken off, with the spring broken the latching device was being held in the lock position. The fix is simple just reform one loop of the spring and reconnect it to the sliding lever on the door latching device. To get to the latching device is rather troublesome especially if the door in locked. The door panel can be removed with the door locked but with some difficulty. First remove driver seat from vehicle, remove seat belt floor bolt, remove trim covering seat belt. Now remove bolt in inside handle assembly and remove bezel, remove screw from door pull cup and with a short (90 degree)Phillip's number 2 point screw driver remove screws (2) from door panel. Disconnect wire harnesses from door panel. Now release snaps all around panel and try to lift the panel and pull it away from the door frame it will not be easy and some damage may occur to the panel, remember there are still two screws on the other end of the panel that are still fastened to the door. When you get the panel off disconnect the levers from the key assembly and the cables from the inside door handle.
Loosing the three screws on the jab of the door that hold the lock assembly in place, pull lock assembly out of door and make repairs. Make sure to reconnect all electrical connectors that had to be disconnect to remove panel. This a a labor intensive job, good luck...