Hyundai QuestionsRefine by vehicle
all electric conections are the same . all the engine mounts are the same and the clutch and bellhouseing bolt up. my stater gear teeth and the flywheel teeth are making a sort of grinding noise . does not fully engauge
I first noticed the noise a week ago upon start up and then it got worse upon entering the fwy
The problem is intermittent. It is as if the cars backs off at 3000 rpms. If I change gears at 3000 rpms the car will accelerate fine until I get to 3000 rpms then it loses power again, almost as if its out of gas.
the car dives great and in and out of gears good but the noise?
my a/c compressor has gone out can i bypass the a/c pulley till i can have the compessor replaced
I had front end control arms and struts replaced 4 weeks ago because of "crunching" sounds from front end when driving. Now took to dealer for unrelated reason and I'm told the boot on the r&p has fluid, so rack & pinion needs to be replaced. Wouldn't replacing control arms had caught this issue?
I have a 90 hyundai sport and havent switch out a front wheel drive
I would like to now if it come out from underneith
And do i need to drop the front sub frame
The problem just started.
I can't find the brake fuse its not labeled on fuse box panel under car hood
what would cause oily, greasy front wheel hubs
Cranked the car . drove about 5 miles down road and it shut off. Never had this problem. Tried to start with cables. But nothing
Can any one provide me resistance values of (ohm range) accent 2000 car.
Had timing belt replaced at 123000 miles and at 129000 it shredded and caused engine to lock up
It stalled out on the way to work.i have already replaced fuel pump,coil pack,wires,plugs,cam and crank sensor.still nothing!!!! Spins over,just won't crank....
It ha done this before when it had gotten cold when I take my hand off intake it dies and if trying to accelerate
Both lines to the heating coil are hot. engine coolant is full
Happens only while driving (in motion). Will take 2 - 5 seconds before rpm's return to idle. Does NOT do it parked at idle. Accelerator cable has be lubed and is free. Local dealer has looked at it 3 times in 2016 and can't fix this problem.
yesterday started and ran just fine. this morning it want start . when you turn the key you get nothing no crank no start no noise of any kind. I check the battery it fine. dash lights come on and the interior light is very bright and so are the head lights. Please help if you can. Thank you
All other settings are fine, the car starts back up when I switch it back and no fuses are blown.
What could cause this?
when cold she starts and go, but when you stop and switch off, she then starts, shudders and shuts off, similar like if there is no gas?
This problem all of a sudden appeared
2011 hyundai santa fe loses power while driving normal, it doesn't shut off just slows down very slowly. It will speed back up but it slows down without warning.
It occurs periodically becoming often.
growling noise in front end while driving and noise does not change when accelerating or decelerating or when turning to the right or turning to the left and changes with rpms
I've changed all the 02 sensors and mass air flow sensor. Cleared the code and it came back on. Checked for air leaks and come up empty. Running out of ideas.
Since the temperatures have gotten very cold overnights I've had to reset my clock first thing in the morning several times now. Just wondering if it is just my 2017 Elantra or if anyone else is having the same issue.
shifting problem hard moving selector must start in neutral then move to drive difficult at times if not impossible. reverse only at times
just slightly over 50000 miles
even with the turning of the steering wheel the front wheels don't turn. what could be the reason for that
Location and description of any sensors on transmission
Transmission won't shift correctly in drive but will shift correctly in reverse and sends shift solenoids a,b,c,d codes to the scan tool