110
questions

When it gets above 80 degrees the ac starts blowing hot air

Check engine light stays on and computer code P0420 shows up on EM test!

Won't pass emotions and inside lights stay on.

after wiring a trailer and hooking it to my truck. it blew
two 7.5 fuses. Then the check emission system and vtm-4 indicators lights came on Why want they go off. replace
the 7.5 fuses, trailer lights are working properly

My Honda service center technicians have given me two different answers:
1) You should change the timing belt at 60k to avoid engine replacement.
2) I've worked here eleven years and only seen six Ridgeline belt failures.

I originally heard a knock in my front end, replaced the stabilizer bars with mooge (sp) bars because they were supposed to be the best. They only lasted a month! Brought the truck to the Honda dealer, they put on Honda stabilizer bars and could find nothing else wrong with the front end... Its only been 5 weeks and they failed again. I'm out $450 and can not afford this every month. I don't go off reading, only drive 5 miles to work everyday. Someone please suggest something because no one can tell me what is causing this. PS I baby my truck and have it check over often. My whole front suspension I have been told by three different people is in great shape including the dealer. Th dealer is going to warranty this, but can't guarantee they will the next time they go out.

Then the security starts the horn honking. Then it's back to normal till I drive for a while and go to turn the motor off. It didn't start doing this til I changed the battery.

When my headlights are on the backlight on my radio turn off and when I turn off my headlights the back lights on the radio turn on. Anyone know what is causing this??

The dial is set to warmer than outside air. The blower still blows but won't blow warm/hot air not matter the "mode". Just started a week ago. What should I check? Any easy fixes other than pulling the dash apart? Not sure where the servo is that opens the warm air flow for the cab. I keep it turned off during the cooler weather but need to get it fixed before winter sets in.

WENT TO HONDA.COM AND GAVE THE RADIO SERIAL # AND VIN NUMBER THEY EMAILED ME BACK 16 CODE NUMBERS AND ALL 5 DIGIT. IT NEEDS TO BE 4

when it is not working the odometer and cruise still work. when coming to a stop i can hear a faint clicking coming from under the dash and then it usually starts working but sometimes goes for days before it starts working again. any ideas were to start looking?

I purchased a new 2012 Honda Ridgeline and I am the only driver. It has just under 30,000 miles and I was due for oil change so I also had the 30k service done. Before the service I started feeling a slight vibration when braking; like the front rotors might be slightly warped. The Honda dealer service dept. checked and told me the rotors were warped and could be turned. The brake pads were still in very good condition so there wasn't a safety issue. I asked how the rotors could be warped so soon and was told they see this happen even at less mileage and is usually due to driving habits. Also said it is caused by excessive heat. Most of the 30k miles were highway and country roads. Only recently have I started driving to a new job where I'm in "aggressive" driving conditions where I might be going 70mph and then need to slow down quickly. A couple of times I've needed to break hard; but not lock your brakes hard. So I guess I'm wondering if just a few hard braking incidents could cause my brakes to warp? I'm also curious if others have seen this with their Ridgelines or other Honda models. It just seems to me that the rotors shouldn't warp this quickly and if there is a problem with excessive heat, is there another type of brake pad that will not produce as much heat in mostly "normal" driving conditions. Thanks!

and also my door lock won't lock can you please help me

Tire wear looks normal so I rotated front to back but still have the shake. Its not to bad yet, I think it could be a CV joint as the rotors and pads look good and no shake when stopping. Anyone had this experience?

Thanks,
Mike

Ridgeline has 160,000 kms on it. This noise is very similar to the noise made when you drive over the "rumble strip" on the side of the highway. This rumble comes and goes. Typically only happens on highway, driving under load. Noise stops when I ease up on the gas pedal. My feeling is noise is coming from the rear end.

It happens when I turn, and I can hear it when it is idling or upon acceleration. Any idea what this might be? I have 91K miles on it.

would the plastic part on the prevent it from starting if it broke off? it turns over but would not start after the plastic part of the key became separated from the metal part that slips into the ignition switch. if it is a chip that wont allow it to start and I have to get a new key, is that something I need to deal with the dealership on or can any6 place that does those keys do it?

I replaced the 120/40 fuse now it want crank it has power and the engine turns over but want crank any ideas?

Backlight on radio stopped working -is this a fuse issue or something loose?

Temp gauge still not moving and auto temp fluctuates on and off

Cylinder head need to repair,misfire number #4,smell fumes gas.

motor dies when you push the gas all the way to the floor. Will not respond. All the lights on dash light up. You can shut the key off, restart, as long as it's warmed up, it will run.

I drove my 2010 ridgeline today shut it off and when I went to restart it all it would do is spin

Had an Accord wagon that we had this 100,000 mile maintenance done and it never ran the same after that. It was perfect before and crappy after. Now we have a Ridgeline that just passed 100,000 miles and I'm afraid to have it done. It runs great and I don't want to mess it up. Anyone else have this problem?

This vehicle melted a coil pack off in the head and the others aren't firing is this a common problem?