Honda CR-V Questions

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Is this a major or minor repair. I still have warranty coverage but there's a $100 deductible.

Light came on immediately after leaving garage. Read that I may need to have VSA reset

just started-cant turn them off had to disconnect battery

The steering wheel vibrates at faster speeds (65 & above) & also breaking at these speeds. I have had the tire balance & air checked & was told it could be something with the breaks, rotors/ lining & or pads etc. does that sound right? I'd like to fix whatever is wrong.

I just had my spark plugs, air filter, cabin filter, oil and oil filter changed and two weeks later, the check engine light came on, whats next?

Even if the car is given a shot of gas when in drive on a slope if the brake is not on the car will roll back as though it was in neutral. Is this normal ?

come to a stop, its starts idiling rough like it wants to stall. once i turn off the ac or start moving it stops. its also not blowing ice cold.

The car has 105 miles, no performance issues, small leak?
Do you recommend a power steering sealant fluid as an alternative in the interim?

How often should all fluids be changed ?

had a 2001 accord every thing worked for 12 years.Bought a 2011 crv with 98000kms on it.Lost battery.power steering pump, tensioner and aircondition clutch set,compressorand coil set field cost about 1500 dollars to repair HONDA REFUSED TO HELP IN ANY WAY So NO MORE HONDA for me and family and friends boooooo HONDA

nothing but trouble since was bought

Dealer says it's the compressor?

When engine stops, the tach surges back anf forth from 0 to max rpm for a minute or so, then stops. Sometime is there is a very faint "thud" when the tach stops surging (and this is with the engine, fan, and everything else completely off). Car usually restars after a few minutes or so, with a very mild backfire, suggesting accumulated fuel. Took to my ususaly excellent shop and they plugged in diagnostics and drove for a week and could not repete the fault. No diagnosis given. When the random engine cut out happenes the "check engine" light is on. Read various comments like this but no one mentiond the mystry tach surging or mild backfire on re-start.

Happened after car was parked for about 3 hours on a slight incline.I had used this gear on the start of my journey.

I got it replaced and it has now happened a second time!!!! what destroys a distributor!? I NEED HELP

Hi I have been having ALOT of trouble with this problem for the past five months. Ever since I replaced the front right cv axle, the seal has been leaking. Initially I had the seal replaced, at a Honda dealership...twice. Did not work. Then had the seal replaced at another shop. Still leaking. Had axle replaced at Firestone. Still leaking. Had another mechanic who swore that it was the wrong axle try yet another complete axle and now it is leaking again. Differential bearings are fine, not worn. The transmission is apparently fine. DO I really just need an OEM axle??? Ive heard that maybe the Honda Cr-v can only have OEM? I am going out of my mind. Please help. Thx

Hello, I own a 2010 CRV EX 2WD since new, and since new has this aggravating thing that I figure is Honda way for this vehicle to have better gas mileage. I'm not the only complainer about it by the way; I recall dozens and dozens of other drivers having the same issue as me, mostly at the CRV forums. Here it is:

When freeway going on a slightly up-hill the transmission refuses to switch to a lower gear, the CRV bogs down loosening momentum and speed. If I depress the gas pedal, up to 1 1/2 inches nothing happens, if I depress further the car (let's call it car) takes off like a wild bronco, and soon after it reverts to a higher gear and bogs down yet again. It is impossible to maintain a steady speed when travelling over the slightest up-hill incline. Question:

Can the transmission computer software be programmed to make it more willing to switch gears at freeway speeds? For instance to "read" when the gas pedal is depressed a 1/4 of an inch (not almost 2 inches) and switch to lower gears, one at the time (or two if the pedal is depressed further) rather than allowing the vehicle to loose over 10 miles per hour before it shifts?

This is such an aggravating condition that had me looking for other brand vehicles, but I love this CRV, and within city driving the transmission is near perfect, always willing to shift to lower gears, always easy to keep a steady rate of speed, even going up-hill, with the slightest hint of pushing the gas pedal.

I did all the "service bulletin" changes that Honda recommended, including the 10-077 at the El Cajon, CA. Honda dealership.

I figure that this change should be possible to perform, just because of this:
Under the same conditions, the same long hills of freeway 52 in San Diego, if the cruise control is set to a particular speed, say 60, 65, 70, the transmission switches gears eagerly and rapidly, as soon as the vehicle looses @ 3 MPH it switches to the next lower gear. If the incline becomes more pronounced, it still will switch to lower gears to maintain the speed set by the cruise control, eagerly and quickly, never letting more than 3, perhaps 4 MPH before switching down, AND, most importantly, maintaining a consistent rate of speed.

Please help?

My old compressor was less than 3 years old. I paid 975 to replace it in 2012. I had a freon problem last year got that repaired.....and it started blowing warmish air this week and my new shop said it was probably a rebuilt compressor. they quoted me $965 for the new one with new condenser and labor its $1895. and then another $275 for refrigerant service kits and schrader valve and labor. $2170 to get it repaired at Hagins automotive in Martinez, CA They do good work but am I get a bad deal?? Thank U