Honda CR-V QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Happened after car was parked for about 3 hours on a slight incline.I had used this gear on the start of my journey.
I got it replaced and it has now happened a second time!!!! what destroys a distributor!? I NEED HELP
Hi I have been having ALOT of trouble with this problem for the past five months. Ever since I replaced the front right cv axle, the seal has been leaking. Initially I had the seal replaced, at a Honda dealership...twice. Did not work. Then had the seal replaced at another shop. Still leaking. Had axle replaced at Firestone. Still leaking. Had another mechanic who swore that it was the wrong axle try yet another complete axle and now it is leaking again. Differential bearings are fine, not worn. The transmission is apparently fine. DO I really just need an OEM axle??? Ive heard that maybe the Honda Cr-v can only have OEM? I am going out of my mind. Please help. Thx
Hello, I own a 2010 CRV EX 2WD since new, and since new has this aggravating thing that I figure is Honda way for this vehicle to have better gas mileage. I'm not the only complainer about it by the way; I recall dozens and dozens of other drivers having the same issue as me, mostly at the CRV forums. Here it is:
When freeway going on a slightly up-hill the transmission refuses to switch to a lower gear, the CRV bogs down loosening momentum and speed. If I depress the gas pedal, up to 1 1/2 inches nothing happens, if I depress further the car (let's call it car) takes off like a wild bronco, and soon after it reverts to a higher gear and bogs down yet again. It is impossible to maintain a steady speed when travelling over the slightest up-hill incline. Question:
Can the transmission computer software be programmed to make it more willing to switch gears at freeway speeds? For instance to "read" when the gas pedal is depressed a 1/4 of an inch (not almost 2 inches) and switch to lower gears, one at the time (or two if the pedal is depressed further) rather than allowing the vehicle to loose over 10 miles per hour before it shifts?
This is such an aggravating condition that had me looking for other brand vehicles, but I love this CRV, and within city driving the transmission is near perfect, always willing to shift to lower gears, always easy to keep a steady rate of speed, even going up-hill, with the slightest hint of pushing the gas pedal.
I did all the "service bulletin" changes that Honda recommended, including the 10-077 at the El Cajon, CA. Honda dealership.
I figure that this change should be possible to perform, just because of this:
Under the same conditions, the same long hills of freeway 52 in San Diego, if the cruise control is set to a particular speed, say 60, 65, 70, the transmission switches gears eagerly and rapidly, as soon as the vehicle looses @ 3 MPH it switches to the next lower gear. If the incline becomes more pronounced, it still will switch to lower gears to maintain the speed set by the cruise control, eagerly and quickly, never letting more than 3, perhaps 4 MPH before switching down, AND, most importantly, maintaining a consistent rate of speed.
My old compressor was less than 3 years old. I paid 975 to replace it in 2012. I had a freon problem last year got that repaired.....and it started blowing warmish air this week and my new shop said it was probably a rebuilt compressor. they quoted me $965 for the new one with new condenser and labor its $1895. and then another $275 for refrigerant service kits and schrader valve and labor. $2170 to get it repaired at Hagins automotive in Martinez, CA They do good work but am I get a bad deal?? Thank U
or they would not warranty the condenser. Is this common? Is a 2007 Honda CRV
If I accelerate a little or let off the gas it will stop
My car is giving a problem to start especially when its driven, but all injectors, glow plugs was tested and engine and electrical diagnosis was done and all seems good.
How long do brakes usually last
Machine Front Rlotors, Replace Brake Pads. Cost of Parts and Labor for 2007 Honda CR-V, 2WD LX Moddel
THE LIGHT SWITCH IS IN THE OFF POSITION AND THE HEADLIGHTS ARE NOT ON. DESPITE THAT, FRONT AND REAR PARKING LIGHTS REMAIN ILLUMINATED AFTER THE IGNITION IS OFF AND THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN EXITED.
We have replaced everything for my ac. We wired it across it kickes on we havc cool air. When we un-hook the wire the compresser stops
All of my cardoors lock/unlock with the driver's side master button except the front passenger door. Anything I might be able to look at before bringing it in and possibly being told it's something very expensive? Thank you in advance for any help.
My front lights light low. I jump started it and run the engine for 30 min but when i turn it off and start it again, it doesn't want to go through again. There 's no indication in my dashboard that my battery is dead. My battery is barely 3 years old. First time to encounter this. I never left my lights on and it happened only suddenly when I tried to restart it again after just 2 minutes of turning it off. Turning the key on only lights up my dashboard and cranks continuously but it doesn't start at all.
Was completely dead. Battery was replaced, now it's turning over, but will not start. Radio is not coming on when key is in II position, gears won't shift, miles, oil and gas levels won't display, and the day lights are on, while key is in off position. No fuses are blown that we can see.
just need general idea of the time involved to calculate labour cost..i live in Toronto, Canada...
We have one estimate and a warranty to help with cost.We got when we purchased the car last March.The diagnostic codesareZL0110 and ZP-12182.
8419 power steering hose R&R pressure. We have one estimate and our cat does have a warranty to help with cost from our purchase of the crv last March.
the front is "locked up"