Honda Civic QuestionsRefine by vehicle
i bought finders and lights for my 94 and they dont match i have a gap between the lights and finder whys that
Where can I go to get this fixed and how much would this cost?
Plastic cam plug seal has been replaced twice already because that's where the oil was thought to be coming from. However, this 3rd time, gasket maker was used to help it seal more. Ive recently checked around the cam plug seal and it is dry and not showing any signs that it's leaking from there but I'm still getting a small pool of oil under the area of the cam plug seal.
Also, at night lights in the transmission selector. IE D/R does not light up.
What would cause that
I know the secondary is under the shifter....but I can't find the plug for the primary? Help
My transmission keeps slipping. My dipstick was Loose and I replaced it with a tighter one but it's still slipping. How do I fix it or find out how to fix it.
We go up hills or something that causes the car to work a little harder and we start smelling a burning smell. We have to change our oil faster than the recommended 3k miles (no leaking though). Also there is a sound of pattering at times.
ven when oil is almost gone does not go on at all.also lots of oil used. 2003 civic with 95k miles
my 2005 honda civic lx 1.7l eng/tans shakes-raddles-and rolls only in drive at 25-30 and 40-45 mph, whats wrong with the car?
But as I take foot off the gas and reapply it goes away. This goes on and on. What's wrong with my car?
My car starts up and runs for 5-10 minutes then dies out like it's out of gas. Won't start back up again for several hours. I replaced the fuel filter, nothing. I checked the relay and fuel pump, both seem to be in working order. I have fuel pressure. The plugs are sparking fine. The air box isn't clogged. I even sprayed carb cleaner in while it was running. It died out and I let it sit. Went and started it a little later and it blew a bit of white smoke and cleared up, then acted like it was out of gas again. The injectors are opening and closing as they should. I'm at a loss with what it could be
P0700 (transmission control system) P1298 (Electric load detector circuit high input) these 2 codes popped up a couple of days ago. i've had no transmission problems until today no warning signs at all besides check engine light. while vehicle was in drive pressing gas pedal car began to behave like the transmission was in neutral. vehicle would not accelerate. What should be the first thing to look at in this situation? I honestly believe this is a completely electrical problem I am in need of any help that I can get at this point
I replaced the pedal position sensor for $210 already and I've come to find out that wasn't the problem... I'm convinced it's the electric throttle control. I ran the computer on my car to see what's wrong and it said the PPS, so I took the chance and still the car has problems. I'm calling places like good year to get the new part and I wanted to know what kinda price I should expect before they tell me a high number.
My diagnostic test keeps saying thermostat which I've had replaced 3 different times. This has been going on since I got my car in July
All locks work except when using the key FOB. I even tried my spare and it does not work either and replacing the battery.
When the car runs for a little bit it dies then I'll start right back up again but I have to turn the key all the way just replace the relays but distributor relay
Is it necessary if light is on dash?
I have had the battery checked and the altenator is good because when I get a jump it stays charged for a while. Then when it sits it does again. It starts instantly after I get a jump though. Idk what's wrong with it.