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Honda Accord Questions

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4,143
questions

I purchased the car in 2015 & it had 163,000 miles on it. I've been told that it should be replaced every 100,000 miles. How much should it cost for a mechanic to check the belt & how much time is involved. Ho w much does it cost to replace the belt. I had a mechanic to tell me that the original belt is on the car. Can this be possible?

the key is stuck in the ignition will not
come out when turn off. it was occasionally now will not come out

it stays on

Iv done a oil change and the next day pretty much all the oil was gone and looked a little milky or watery. Plus white smoke comes out of the exhaust when I crank it but usually stops after a couple minutes . Not sure if there is a oil leak or it's just burning threw the oil way to fast. I have to constantly add oil everyday. Plus I can smell a faint burning smell inside the car when I drive it. The car had about 240,000 plus miles

do you have to replace a timing belt on a 4 cylinder honda accord

I changed transmission and a few sensors but it still doing it what sensor do I need

MY QUESTION IS I RECENTLY CHANGE MY SPARKS PLUGS AND BRAKES JUST THIS PAST SUNDAY I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK ALL OF A SUDDEN MY CAR JUST STAYED IN DRIVE AND WOULNT MOVED I TRUN THE CAR OFF WAITED 10 MINS THEN TRUN IT BACK ON THE CAR MOVED I MADE IT HOME BUY EVERYTIME I GO TO MOVE THE CAR PUT IT IN DRIVE IT WANT MOVED AT ALL THEN IT WILL EVENUTALLY TUN AND MOVE

car makes squeeking noise when you turn steering wheel

the lights and radio work ,but when i turn the key nothing
happened

I can't fold backseat of my car I need little help plz anybody it's 2014 Honda Accord hybrid thanks

Engine its hot and fan doesn't kick on.

I lost my remote key and im trying to use my vaket key but the alarm goes off when i unlock it. Even when i start it, it doesnt stop. After 2 minutes it stops but the anti theft lock still blinks what can i do

car engine shuts down while driving.Does it sporadically. Starts right back up immediately.Already replaced the fuel pump and the distributor.

1999 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic will not move in first gear once warmed up - Works OK cold. Took out solenoids and cleaned filters in one. Only one filter had any trash and wasn't totally clogged. All tested to work. When I put them back in and ran the car, it shifted normally when first driven, as though this fixed the problem - but D4 light was flashing. Once it was restarted, the D4 light no longer flashed and shifting went right back to not having first gear. Other gears shift normally. Have to manually select second to get going once the car is warmed up. It will not go when first is manually selected either. It can be put in first but barely can move much at all even when revved. Acts like torque converter has no fluid when warmed up or that fluid is too light a weight. First gear only.
Just got car for junk price, from "lil' ol' lady" who didn't drive it much and knows nothing about it or what she might have done or had done.
Gammlin that it can be fixed without spendin a fortune.
Reset ECU by pulling battery cable. No change.
How will overfilling affect this? Dipstick shows it to be WAY over full. How much I can't tell.
Engine light is on. Transmission fluid looks like new - red and clean - no sign of debris. Don't have any idea of what kind of fluid is in there.
This is DIY only project. No shops or dealers, so exact and correct answers are needed and appreciated.
Took car to parts house and had them run their scanner. It returned the following codes:
P1491 - Emissions
P0705 - Range sensor circuit malfunction
P0706 - Transmission Circuit Range/Performance
These seem to indicate Neutral Safety Switch problem.
Swapped the old switch out for a new one. Set it to click (neutral) and installed with transmission in neutral. That took a couple of tries to get the gearshift lights to come back on.
Result was that it operated exactly like the old switch - no first gear, no matter if D4, D3, or 1st gear is selected. Info found, as well as diagnostic codes, all direct me to the Neutral Safety Switch.
Still have no first gear. How to get it to work is the question. First gear only works when the car is first started and the fluid is cold. Once warmed up it does not. No problems shifting between other gears once first is bypassed. Having to take off in second then shift to D3 and/or D4.
Can overfilling the fluid do this? Which solenoid can cause this?
Neutral Safety Switch does not look like it is the problem. Even though the error codes pointed to this part as the issue, replacing it with a new unit did not fix problem. Click stop is not audible. Can be felt when devices are rotated, but not heard. Car will not move until this click is set.
The car runs fine EXCEPT it has no first gear after initial warm up. It will only pull the first few minutes while the fluid is cold. Might this be the indicator of what the problem actually is? If it can pull with cold fluid, then the transmission itself is probably not bad.
Can overfilling the fluid do this?
Is it possible that a solenoid is the culprit? If so which solenoid(s) can cause this? Please post diagram. Only found one that had screens/filters. Cleaned it even though it was not dirty. When it was put back in, the car drove normally on first startup but the D4 light blinked. I restarted the car and the D4 light went out and so did first gear.
Fluid is healthy red.
Need information for this model with this exact problem. Did extensive searching on web for information on this without success. No info on having first gear only, not working.

Where is the fuse for this

Have new battery and the alternate is good

All the time just bought the car ran fine set up along time. Put a machine on it and showed the distributor cap was advanced

It for a brief second try's to start then just turns over

89 HONDA ACCORD//CUTS OFF AFTER DRIVING 20MINUTES..GOOD WHILE JUST SITTIN'//IT'S LIKE TO MUCH GAS AN CHOKES OUT, I GUESS,,OLDER CAR...AN I WANTS TO KEEP MY 89 HONDA, IT'S LIKE ME OLD AN NICE!!!

the read out on the odometer displays only half of the numbers

i can not find part..not even dealer...is there another way to fit this system or use another type hose unit...an is there anothermodel with same parts/ help

What are the best tires for a 2010 Honda Accord Sedan?

I have 2007 honda accord. when it is running suddenly engine get off then i start again so it stared again. this is very difficult to stard again and again

I've only had the car a little over a year, and have already replaced two wheel bearings. Now another one is going bad. Is that considered normal?

Ead and melted the boot and the exaust blew out white smoke for like 5 seconds and it was running perfect just not even 24 hours the wheather got cold it snowed and i started it up drove about 7 miles and the engine light start blinking and did a tuneup on it still happen but only to that one

Problem only occur when cold. Took idle speed control out and cleaned. Took ECU fuse out and disconnect battery cable also to reset ECU without any result. Once car is driven for awhile rough idle goes away. Once operating temperature is reached it still takes awhile for idle to Smooth out. What could be problem? It's evident that something isn't getting the right information to kick in and work on cold engine, to smooth it out. The power is there, does not stable, and runs well. Just idle like shot when cold. Has 234.000miles.

I drove too long with gas cap lose, the service engine soon light is no now. I have fixed the gas cap problem, but need to reset the light. I attempted to use an inexpensive reader from AutoZone, but it would not communicate with the ECU. I have heard there is a fuse I can pull to reset. How do I find the correct fuse on the 2012 Accord?

I am thinking about buying a used car and would like to know if I would have to replace the belt if it does have one.

Just started

most especiallywhen climbing up hill .