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Changed 80a fuse. 30A is blown & will be changing it tomorrow. . Should this fix the issue? . . My son joined the military & all I am trying to do is sell it to make his $ back for him.

1999 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic will not move in first gear once warmed up - Works OK cold. Took out solenoids and cleaned filters in one. Only one filter had any trash and wasn't totally clogged. All tested to work. When I put them back in and ran the car, it shifted normally when first driven, as though this fixed the problem - but D4 light was flashing. Once it was restarted, the D4 light no longer flashed and shifting went right back to not having first gear. Other gears shift normally. Have to manually select second to get going once the car is warmed up. It will not go when first is manually selected either. It can be put in first but barely can move much at all even when revved. Acts like torque converter has no fluid when warmed up or that fluid is too light a weight. First gear only.
Just got car for junk price, from "lil' ol' lady" who didn't drive it much and knows nothing about it or what she might have done or had done.
Gammlin that it can be fixed without spendin a fortune.
Reset ECU by pulling battery cable. No change.
How will overfilling affect this? Dipstick shows it to be WAY over full. How much I can't tell.
Engine light is on. Transmission fluid looks like new - red and clean - no sign of debris. Don't have any idea of what kind of fluid is in there.
This is DIY only project. No shops or dealers, so exact and correct answers are needed and appreciated.
Took car to parts house and had them run their scanner. It returned the following codes:
P1491 - Emissions
P0705 - Range sensor circuit malfunction
P0706 - Transmission Circuit Range/Performance
These seem to indicate Neutral Safety Switch problem.
Swapped the old switch out for a new one. Set it to click (neutral) and installed with transmission in neutral. That took a couple of tries to get the gearshift lights to come back on.
Result was that it operated exactly like the old switch - no first gear, no matter if D4, D3, or 1st gear is selected. Info found, as well as diagnostic codes, all direct me to the Neutral Safety Switch.
Still have no first gear. How to get it to work is the question. First gear only works when the car is first started and the fluid is cold. Once warmed up it does not. No problems shifting between other gears once first is bypassed. Having to take off in second then shift to D3 and/or D4.
Can overfilling the fluid do this? Which solenoid can cause this?
Neutral Safety Switch does not look like it is the problem. Even though the error codes pointed to this part as the issue, replacing it with a new unit did not fix problem. Click stop is not audible. Can be felt when devices are rotated, but not heard. Car will not move until this click is set.
The car runs fine EXCEPT it has no first gear after initial warm up. It will only pull the first few minutes while the fluid is cold. Might this be the indicator of what the problem actually is? If it can pull with cold fluid, then the transmission itself is probably not bad.
Can overfilling the fluid do this?
Is it possible that a solenoid is the culprit? If so which solenoid(s) can cause this? Please post diagram. Only found one that had screens/filters. Cleaned it even though it was not dirty. When it was put back in, the car drove normally on first startup but the D4 light blinked. I restarted the car and the D4 light went out and so did first gear.
Fluid is healthy red.
Need information for this model with this exact problem. Did extensive searching on web for information on this without success. No info on having first gear only, not working.

My car had been heating up for a while went to get it checked told it was the water pump leaking but now it wont start

Where is the fuse for this

Have new battery and the alternate is good

My lights and blinkers stopped working and for a while I could get them to work if I played w the key in the ignition while engine running. now that doesn't work.

i have been told the housing, also the gasket

I've been driving the 2008 Ridgeline for 8 years in Dallas. No off-road or towing. Light hauling on local roads and freeways. I want to buy a new 2017 model. Will I notice a difference if I buy the less expensive 2-wheel drive model?

My car was having trouble starting but after a few turns I have always gotten it to start. It started getting worse, meaning it would take more turns to get it to start. It also started a wheezing sound as well. A mechanic told me it was the starter motor but when I took it in today they said it was the ignition switch and after installing the ignition switch they are telling me that the starter motor is going as well. Later in the day it was having trouble starting again. I don't know that they were right about the ignition switch.

Still won't start,replaced t.p.s.,,crank sensor no start,please help

'04 one owner, Full synthetic high mileage oil changes regularly, new air-conditioner, just had her tuned up.

In August I had a/c compressor repaired because my a/c was going on and off and would blow hot and cold air. Just had starter replaced two days ago because had trouble starting car and the heat and a/c stopped working. Do you think it's an electrical problem?

This past week my wife's car battery light came on while I was driving it. After parking it soon afterwards, it would not start. I was able to boost it and get it home. The next day I went and had both the battery and alternator tested at a local AutoZone. They both passed the test. It appeared as though the negative terminal clip was loose and I thought perhaps it was just a bad terminal connection. I repaired both terminal clips for the positive and negative and charged the battery manually at home before starting it again. It showed no battery light initially, but after a short test drive it came back on. I managed to drive it a few places before my battery depleted once again and now I'm back to square one. I had the battery and terminal tested at another business just to make sure, and they both passed the test. Just to be safe, I replaced the battery with a back-up and got the same result. I haven't been able to find a fuse allocated as a relay for the alternator in the car manual, so I don't know if there is one or not. I'm not sure what the problem could be. Any insight into this problem would be greatly appreciated.

All the time just bought the car ran fine set up along time. Put a machine on it and showed the distributor cap was advanced

Stopped at a light. Stepped on gas, lost all gears including park. It rolls in park? Had it toed home next day it went into gear but only till it warmed up then lost gear again. What could be making it slip all gears at a moments notice

when I turn my key I don't hear any clicking the car won't start but the battery is ok the lights come on in the house

Poor gear selection or a delay in gear selection

car stalls and the belt squeals when I turn on the a/c

It for a brief second try's to start then just turns over

a/c clutch would not engage replaced relay and worked fine but engine light came on. What could be the cause.

It's mounted on the side of the throttle body, not the top ,and there's little room to access the screws or whatever holds it on.

after replacing head gaskets, went55 to zero

Its making loud noises on passenger side under the hood. It also stalled on us once. We drove it to a store, put it in park, but as soon as we put it in any gear it would just stall. Anyone have any clue what this could be? Hoping just a bad tensioner

that problem start on 2015

So I replaced idle air control valve at the same cleaned housing real good put back together checked for air leaks. Took for a test got back home put in park and the engine light came back on and it started to idle up & down. Any suggestions?

89 HONDA ACCORD//CUTS OFF AFTER DRIVING 20MINUTES..GOOD WHILE JUST SITTIN'//IT'S LIKE TO MUCH GAS AN CHOKES OUT, I GUESS,,OLDER CAR...AN I WANTS TO KEEP MY 89 HONDA, IT'S LIKE ME OLD AN NICE!!!

History:
One night I left the light on and the battery died. I replaced the battery and after driving for 20 minutes and parking the car won't turn on again, jumping the car works. I replaced the starter and it started again but won't turn on every time.

Currently:
The car only starts sometimes, we left the car running when going into a store for a quick purchase and the car was off before we got back (scary to drive now). The car wouldn't start again. After 3 hours we tried starting it again and it worked. Drove it back home, tried starting it at home and it won't start again. Any ideas on what is going on here?

the read out on the odometer displays only half of the numbers

After using carb cleaner I was revving motor as instructed when the pedal went right to the floor, would not rev motor, dead.

i can not find part..not even dealer...is there another way to fit this system or use another type hose unit...an is there anothermodel with same parts/ help