GMC Yukon Denali QuestionsRefine by vehicle
It always works at first but then stops once it gets warm.
All of sudden while driving yesterday I heard a loud grinding noise and thought maybe the driver wheel had popped off...after stopping the wheel was still on but when I put the truck back in gear to drive it makes a very loud grinding noise.
Terrible shaking when brakes are applied. Front left caliper and rotor replaced. Both back rotors replaced, but not pads. Still shaking. If pads in back are replaced will this stop the shaking?
When opened manually it closes prematurely. What's likely happening?
I've replaced Vavle cover and I'm worried about a Rear main seal leak vs Oil Pan Gasket vs. Crankpressure vs. Timing Cover issue.
Any advice on how to investigate and fix this in a cost effective manner would be greatly appreciated.
I plugged in a computer charger, worked briefly but then stopped... Other sockets in dash and back work fine. How to fix?
The speedometer or other instrument panel gauge may begin to work erratically at times
Recently my '99 Denali has been makeing a lound ticking/rattleing noise when in reverse. It appears to be mid-vehicle and only while in 2 wheel drive. The noise arrests when the Denali is in forward drive. I have not tried to conduct an external inspection on my own outside of the vehicle when it is in reverse, or place it in 4 Hi/Low to determine if the noise still occurs. The Denali has 170,000 miles with 10 percent of those hauling modest/heavy loads. I replaced the engine at 155,000 with a Jasper engine due to a radiator failure causing the original engine to overheat and take in coolant. I have an appointment with a shop in a week, but more input is often helpful to me. I appreciate any guidance on this matter.
When I'm driving the brake start locking up and the steering wheel pushes me into on going traffic. What could this be
Guage stays on 80 lbs.pressure
We already instal update from acdelco sps section new instal programming of HVAC module,Body control module, and Engine control module. Still the same problem
Constant dinging but it's not on.
what will it Cost for a. drive line service b. replace trans cooler line c. replace oil cooler lines d. replace idler and pitman
rear heater stays on hot when I change it to cold
I can turn engine on at times and my gauges will not work----other times it does work. Called dealer and they had no definitive answer.....bring it in it'll probably be $500.
Ever since I got my tires rotated there is a squeaking sound as I accelerate. Sounds like it comes from front drivers side. I can only hear it between 0-25 mph. Also since then , although this isnt really a big deal, my tire pressure info on dash is flip flopped ...front tires l&r are now actually drivers side front n back...and rear tires l&r are actually passenger side front n back...
wait till the "pig tail" light goes out and try to start and it won't start
How do you dis alarm the anti theft system
The alarm went off one night and the next morning the truck will not start.
the scenarios are all different. today in the automatic car wash the window popped open
With the engine running in park my neighbor was pressing buttons. When I put it in drive to go it was like in neutral. 1,2,3, and reverse are the same. My jeep has 4wd high low and neutral in neutral all the gears do the same thing as the Denali. Nothing. Is the AWD disengaged and if so how do you engage?
The low enging power ccauses my truck to run slow even with my feet down on the gas. Also, the stability system disabled shows up on my screen. Can someone help me wiith this?
This is causing blower motor to short out. How can this be resolved??
I noticed the day I got it sometimes it seems track to the left or right and i have to turn the wheel a bit more than normal to bring it back also will dart left or right from time to time when i am breaking
under normal acceleration from first to second the shift feel sluggish if you increase throttle during the shift it will make a nice firm shift otherwise it feels like its going through neutral before shift into second
Originally I changed the front differential. When I finshed I went for a test drive and my rear u joint broke immediately. I repaired the u joint and 1/2 mile later the u joint snapped again.
the sound from the stereo quit working two weeks ago. now i'vee had a dead battery twice this week. first thought it was a bad stereo amp, now not so sure. maybe the bcm is bad? where is it located and how do i test it?