450
questions

Not running hot or cutting off it's not leaking from my oil pan gasket or oil plug it's by the oil alignment need help jus getting a burn smell

No fuel pressure, pump was not running. Banged bottom of tank and pump tried to go but sounded weak kinda chugged slow then took off. So... we changed the pump and assembly.
Now the new pump won't come on. We've cycled key on/off tried cranking the engine. Etc. Also the fuel gauge is pointing staight down way past empty, needle is actually hitting the edge of the cluster.
We switched the fuel pump relay with a lot her one. What could cause this?

The front defrost-heat blower fan will not blow air until the car warms up to 180-200 degrees then the blower fan starts blowing air but then continually stops & starts intermittently. However, the rear blower fan does not seem to have a problem. Could it be a sensor or the front fan-blower be the problem?

The front defrost-heat blower fan will not blow air until the car warms up to 180-200 degrees then the blower fan starts blowing air but then continually stops & starts intermittently. However, the rear blower fan does not seem to have a problem. Could it be a sensor or the front fan-blower be the problem?

The headlights won't go off and it just started this morning.

As of this morning the heater isn't blowing. Yesterday I drove for 20 minutes before it decided to come on. And that was after allowing it to warm up for 10-15 minutes. But today it didn't blow at all. Should I still try to wiggle the wire or does this sound like something else

Turn it all the way up on high and 90 and I feel heat coming through the vents but no blowing at all

It was recently towed twice by the same company to their yard and then a month later to my home with no keys on a flatbed. This is an AWD all the time 2002 gmc Denali. We had to have a new cylinder and key made. We went to start it and put it in gear the vehicle will not go into ANY gear?? Please help they swear they did not damage the drive train...

Occurs almost daily. Have replaced rear & front shocks & struts replaced shock absorbers & all ball joints and control arm, stabilizer bar, in March 2015. Also replaced Susp Air Compressor not sure what that is (A/C?)also have new tires & oil pump.

Vehicle makes loud clunking noise and vibrates really loud. I assume it's the u joint rear shaft but I'm not sure. I wonder what the cost will be too. This occurs every time I drive it. It actually seems like the vehicle is going to fall a apart

I started the car and I heard this hissing in the back and saw smoke like if it came from the tail pipe but then, next day my ac blew hot air ? and my car after charging all night is dead

In the morning, I drove to work with no problems and the check engine light was not on. After an eight hour shift, I started the truck and noticed the check engine light was on. I had it diagnosed at Advanced Auto as a PO442 code. If I change the gas cap and the check engine light is on, where can I look in the engine to check the carbon filter or hoses?

comes on. if i disable the traction stability function it dosen't happen.

tried the switched in driver side and checked the fusses

Thinking vapor lock but not sure

Had it serviced, stil goes off. What say u?

After spending $650 on new front bearings, my truck now has either a transfer case issue or a differential bearing issue. I am a bit scared as to what this is going to cost me. Any input?

Started upon and performed good and then after few days did it again.

2000 GMC Yukon Denali 5.7L
I swapped Cylinder Heads for a pair of used Cylinder Heads due to the first pair being cross-threaded. After properly installing Heads and torquing them down, we then began to align crank up with TDC Mark and then aligned rotor on distributor to the distributor cap mark. After that, we tried to start it, but it would only just turn over but not start at all. The belt would turn the pulleys and all, but it just seems like it isn't making that starting sound. The fuel pump kicks on and its getting fuel. So we then removed spark plug and decided to put my finger on the hole while the Mechanic used a wrench to turn the crank until I was able to feel air, but no air would blow on my finger at all. So we then removed valve cover and aligned the valves at TDC until both were closed, then put everything back together and still no start. Mechanic then had checked for spark at the #1 plug by removing plug while I tried to start it, and it was getting spark, PLEASE HELP

Shop turns off light, but it comes back on a day or two later. Previously the gas tank vent was plugged and the chamber containing the air filter had leaves and water in the bottom. Said problem was solved. Not.