455
questions

I replaced rotors, upper control arm, pitman arm, idler arm about 1000 miles/6 months ago. Replaced brake master cylinder about 9 mos ago. Replaced power steering hose (turned engine on in process / degreased after replacement).
Immediately after degreasing, serpentine squealing warranted replacement of belt, idler & tension pulleys. A day or so after replacing the belt & two pulleys, I noticed idling mph impeded and coasting distance to stop affected. Total of 2 miles driving over the next two days and I brakes were engaged to the point that I chose to drive in 1st gear for the two blocks to my house. Replaced caliper at the suggestion of my auto parts sales/service rep. Brakes were fine for about ten pushes and, then, locked up again. Both sides smoking in the cold air (and smell of overheated pads big time). Frustrated and am praying for some guidance to most logical order / procedure to troubleshoot the source(s) of this problem. Thank you in advance for your consideration.

the defrost comes on but wont blow if u change to feet or anything els the light flash then all will shut off or do nothing at all not sure if its electrical or something with the blower motor . the back heat does blows but only cold the the truck is throwing a miss fire at 4 and a o2 sensor

When readiness monitors reach 100% ready, ses light comes back on and throws codes po420&po430.could timing issue throw these codes or does it have to be bad cats?

I've repaired & replaced many parts,to find later those parts were not even bad.now it failed emissions part of smog test.how do i test the cats so I don't waste more$?

I took out my instrument cluster to check some issues and put it back in. Since then I can't start the car. I had the starter tested and it is fine. When I turn the key the starter doesn't even engage so it seems to be before the starter in the starting process. I hear a single click when turning the key to the on position. Then when I turn the key fully to start it I hear a single click again and nothing else. The click comes from under the passenger side dash under the glove box. Since the starter is fine I assume it is some part before the starter. I have been told it could be the ignition switch or ignition control module. Are there any other parts to consider between ignition and starter? Did I screw something up taking out the cluster? If so, I can't imagine what. I had to adjust the steering wheel to the lowest position to get the dash panel off but other than that the steering column wasn't touched and I didn't even touch any wires coming from the column/ignition. All of that said, I just keep thinking it can't just be coincidence that it won't start since I did that.

Not running hot or cutting off it's not leaking from my oil pan gasket or oil plug it's by the oil alignment need help jus getting a burn smell

No fuel pressure, pump was not running. Banged bottom of tank and pump tried to go but sounded weak kinda chugged slow then took off. So... we changed the pump and assembly.
Now the new pump won't come on. We've cycled key on/off tried cranking the engine. Etc. Also the fuel gauge is pointing staight down way past empty, needle is actually hitting the edge of the cluster.
We switched the fuel pump relay with a lot her one. What could cause this?

The front defrost-heat blower fan will not blow air until the car warms up to 180-200 degrees then the blower fan starts blowing air but then continually stops & starts intermittently. However, the rear blower fan does not seem to have a problem. Could it be a sensor or the front fan-blower be the problem?

The front defrost-heat blower fan will not blow air until the car warms up to 180-200 degrees then the blower fan starts blowing air but then continually stops & starts intermittently. However, the rear blower fan does not seem to have a problem. Could it be a sensor or the front fan-blower be the problem?

The headlights won't go off and it just started this morning.

As of this morning the heater isn't blowing. Yesterday I drove for 20 minutes before it decided to come on. And that was after allowing it to warm up for 10-15 minutes. But today it didn't blow at all. Should I still try to wiggle the wire or does this sound like something else

Turn it all the way up on high and 90 and I feel heat coming through the vents but no blowing at all

It was recently towed twice by the same company to their yard and then a month later to my home with no keys on a flatbed. This is an AWD all the time 2002 gmc Denali. We had to have a new cylinder and key made. We went to start it and put it in gear the vehicle will not go into ANY gear?? Please help they swear they did not damage the drive train...

Occurs almost daily. Have replaced rear & front shocks & struts replaced shock absorbers & all ball joints and control arm, stabilizer bar, in March 2015. Also replaced Susp Air Compressor not sure what that is (A/C?)also have new tires & oil pump.

Vehicle makes loud clunking noise and vibrates really loud. I assume it's the u joint rear shaft but I'm not sure. I wonder what the cost will be too. This occurs every time I drive it. It actually seems like the vehicle is going to fall a apart

I started the car and I heard this hissing in the back and saw smoke like if it came from the tail pipe but then, next day my ac blew hot air ? and my car after charging all night is dead

In the morning, I drove to work with no problems and the check engine light was not on. After an eight hour shift, I started the truck and noticed the check engine light was on. I had it diagnosed at Advanced Auto as a PO442 code. If I change the gas cap and the check engine light is on, where can I look in the engine to check the carbon filter or hoses?

comes on. if i disable the traction stability function it dosen't happen.

tried the switched in driver side and checked the fusses

Thinking vapor lock but not sure

Had it serviced, stil goes off. What say u?