61
questions

Battery has been replaced but didn't fix the issue. The problem seems to occur more often when trying to start the van after it has recently been run. (Stalled at the gas pump, in a parking lot after getting groceries.)

When it doesn't start and the key is turned, the van has full power to all functions (including radio.) It's as if the ignition doesn't recognize the key is turning because there's no "pause" in electrical connection to any of the steering column.

No engine light occurs, nor do any errors show up. I had it at O'Reilly and they tested a good battery and alternator.

Replaced torque converter last week everything good til I put it in reverse then instantly the motor shuts off.

Goes from ambient (85) to peg gauge (230+) in < 5 min idling. Infrared thermometer reads under 160 on heads (header manifolds barely 210). Replaced pump, stat, hoses, belts and temp switch (85,000 mi) for small leak at pump rotor seal which precipitated overheating trouble. Engine shuts off when guage hits 235. No other apparent problems, no trouble codes logged. Runs perfect otherwise. Repeatable over and over. All stock. Private use 1 driver vehicle. Computer issue? Help appreciated.

I own a GM Van 2007 and the battery is draining overnight, the battery is brand new, the alternator is new. The evap unit on air conditioning unit freezes is freezing up within 10 minutes of driving and the air conditioning is not being operated. In addition, the heater goes out within 10 minutes of driving. Does this have anything to do with a relay or a short in the system? These symptoms happen at the same time.




I own a GM Van 2007 and the battery is draining overnight, the battery is brand new, the alternator is new. The evap unit on air conditioning unit freezes is freezing up within 10 minutes of driving and the air conditioning is not being operated. In addition, the heater goes out within 10 minutes of driving. Does this have anything to do with a relay or a short in the system? These symptoms happen at the same time.



Turn key on lights come on tutn key to crank engine lights go out

If I am on flat ground at 12-15 miles (65 mph), hiccups with loss of power. If trying to climb hill at 12-15 miles (35-40mph), loses power and stalls but starts right back up. Fuel pump and filter are good. Throttle body sensor has been changed. Open to suggestions...PLEASE

I only needed a lifter repaired it was making a ticking noise and was charged for SEVERAL other things I NEVER was talked to about or gave the okay to fix all I needed was a lifter or two replaced so I want to know how much that should have costed me

it says ignition control.high voltage.I replaced igition module.checked the pcm1 fuse and checked the wires.I replaced the pcm.but problem is van will start and shut off right away. i clear the code but it comes right back p1351

i have a friend that has a very exp test device it tells him that all the cylenders on the pasenger side are mis firing at teh same time

I have a parasitic drain problem. I'm trying to find the culprit. I finally got to this panel and when I pull a 50 AMP fuse that Says BATT the drain is gone. I need a circuit diagram of what's the path after that fuse.
I'd appreciate your help. Thanks, Norm

It will turn but not start. Not the fuel pump or the fuse. I believe it maybe the computer. Where is the computer located?

The engine is not running well when accelerating and now want to do more restarted

Bought van new in '01. Security lock out has been a problem since beginning. Shop said they couldn't find the cause if it was't broke when they check it. Dah!! Shop did play with wireing at bottom of steering column, but it didn't change anything. Used to be occasional, but becoming more frequent. Only 53,000 miles. Wait ten minutes and try again.

Radio was on when i got in van and key was in my pocket.

How do you get the old battery off of the metal plate?

How do you get the old battery off of the metal plate?