GMC Safari Questions
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My antifreeze was pouring out. I paid $1763.94 to have the heater inlet and outlet hoses changed, as well as the clamps, water pump, oil cooler line and hoses. These repairs were supposed to "fix the leak", however ,it has continued to pour antifreeze out since i picked it up. At first no one would help me, then i was told that after diagnostic testing, i need to pay to get the core changed. When i complained, i was told the heater control valve was the cause of the leak and that part has nothing to do with the hoses. He specifically said that the valve was never touched or changed, and the hoses and clamps dont touch the valve. Is this true? Is it just a coincidence that the valve cracked within the first 24hrs of driving it? Not sure what else to ask. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
will a 1999 factory service manual be okay for a 2000
When I turn the key to start it, it's not until after I release the key that it wants to start. Does anyone have any suggestions?
clean sensor desconectand replug them still on
i only 79,000 miles on it
I came in from worked,Changed clothes,got back in my 1998 G.M.C. safari van. It would not start. I let it set til next morning. Still wold not start.
I pulled the cowling out of the center,changed cap and rotor.
still don't start.
I am getting fire from #1,but still will not start.
How do I find "TOP DEAD CENTER".
relay and same result, I need advice.thanks
That having been corrected, a couple of weeks ago it won't start in any weather. I never know whether it'll start or not. The fuel pump maintains a 60 psi. I turn the key and it turns over but won't fire. I do this a few times and it'll start sometimes. Other times I have to wait about 10-15 mins. before it'll start. Other times she'll fire right up with no problem. This happens on a cold start or after being driven. Any suggestions?
After years of my door looks clicking,not working all the time, and my air bag light stays on, the passenger window won't go down all the way, and is slow to go up .Out of the blue the door locks (even though they keep clicking) now work. And the A/C fan wont work in the front.
Need upper and lower ball joints both sides. Idler arm and upper arm bushing repair.
Pricing places for lowest cost
Ok I have changed the cap , rotor, wires, plugs. checked fuel pressure 60psi at all times even when misfiring, have not been able to check the cat convertor where can i go next to check components and fix this i miss my chevy
I now have a fuel pressure test gauge but not sure where to fit it and a new fuel filter if si required
also when driving starts off ok but when accelerating bogs down . Have checked EGR , new plugs wires and rotor and cap what to do next
Was turning over and starting fine. Next time I went to start it, it acted like the battery was low and would barely crank over. It wouldn't start. Made sure the battery would charge and even got a new battery. Still acts like the batter is low and cranks very slowly. Won't start. Help?
After rain the van will not start unless I place a hair blow dryer under the hood pointing towards the back
Bought this 2002 a couple months ago. It was leaking a bit but now it leaks like a sieve.
My back door window hatch lock stopped working. so I replace the fuse and now when I replace it it sparks and burns before i get it in. now the door locks only work with remote access key chain. and some times when the fuse is put in and works the door locks electric mechanism keeps going on and off till the battery runs down. I also noticed when I do get the rear door window hatch to come up water pours out the corners. is this a common problem? are these vehicles known for this? can it be fix easily or inexpensively?
Driver's side door handle replacement. Suggested solution above!
When you are all ready in drive and you start start off from a stop.Until you reach steed above 55 to 60 miles an hour.
yesterday I put $25 worth of gas using a different pump than I usually use. After driving a little over 20 miles van started sputtering, bucking and trying to stall. Pulled over and put scanner on it (yes I carry a scanner) threw code P0300. Van was running fine before gas fill had driven about 15 miles before before stopping at station. Just passed the emission 3 weeks before. Suppected water in gas put Heet in tank and had van towed home. Plan on checking for water when it stops raining today. My question is what else could it be that van runs fine then like flipping switch starts to misfire.
Won't drive forward nor backwards and brake pedal will hardly push
I have checked the fuses under the hood and behind the brake pedal, but do not find one labeled power locks. Everything else works fine.
Where would I find this switch and how do I fix the leak?
AND IT BACK FIRES THRU CARB WHEN I ADD STARTING FLLUID.
I used a bit of started fluid in air flow to quick start and nothing. it had cut off on the hwy while driving so I taught it was my pump but my pump is running because i hear it
Initially when Engine rest in d night it will not start on time the next day. Now water is found in engine oil and no traces of leakages in the radiator. Now engine rolls and not start. Oil & fuel filters changed.
when I apply pressure on my brake pedal to stop sometimes the pedal is hard to apply and the is hard to stop. Other times there no symptoms..I just replaced my brake hydra booster with a AC Delco reman. I flushed the p.strg fluid out several times, I still have the hard pedal intermittently. Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
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thanks in advance to whom ever is reading this