590
questions

My body is all beat up


car turned off after driving about ten miles with no water in it we put water after pushing it to the side of the road and it was bumpy the whole way home. now i cant drive it because it keeps stalling on me what is wrong with my car???

happens only on hot start up. mass flow good, plugs good, runs good otherwise

when I put it down the whole front end. What could it be.

& makes a strange slipping noise when i hit the brakes hard ---ABSdoesnt seem to engage , i have replaced all pads & master cylnder and booster allready any help or advise whould help

Problem ongoing for about a year and ½ and only after heavy rain. Not throwing codes, all dash lights and security check work like they are supposed to. Covering the hood during rain seems to prevent the problem.(I have some minor front end damage that may be allowing rain to enter where it shouldn't). One of my low beam headlights doesn't work, so I've been just using the high beams...Hi-Def bulbs are $$$ and that is what the shop recommended). The only other light that's out is the right side license plate light.

Tired of shops wanting to throw parts at it when they can't figure it out, nor can I afford to, so picked up a test light, a DMM, signed up for Alldatadiy, and started keeping good notes and have been researching this myself. Trying to keep this short, but have a lot of info that I could share if needed. I have replaced the battery and the cap and rotor recently, but problem continues.
I''ve focused on checking fuses when this happens, but most sites aren't clear/specific on what the readings mean & I haven't focused on relays yet.

The next time it wouldn't st art after rain I checked fuses in the engine fuse block with the test light to negative on battery and noticed these didn't lite it, until it dried out & started....then they did light it..
TRL TRN, TRR TRN, TRL B/U, VEH B/U, ECM1, ENG1, B/U LP, OXYSEN, and IGN E (not sure about BTSI fuse – missed that).
(It began starting again before I could check the Body fuse block in side of dash...Did check those when it was starting and all were fine).
The only fuse I've ever had to change was the one for the cigarette lighter/Obd2 port, but that hasn't gone out since replaced about 4 mths ago.

I notice that the schematic on Alldata shows the ECM1, ENG1, B/U LP and IGNE all in the bottom row on the “IGN RUN & Start BUS BAR Schematic. These fuses all show nothing on my DMM when it won't start, but battery voltage when it drys and starts. From what I've read, these will prevent spark at the coil, and I think the fuel pump too. Is there something I could check that would affect all of these fuses? I don't think it's the security, since the light on dash does as it should.
Thanks for any help I can get!




I replaced the fuel filter and pump 8 months ago. I replaced the plugs and wires 3 months ago. PCV and EGR recently replaced. Today I installed the spider injector assembly. The truck still acts like it is fighting for fuel. It stalled out on me while driving and idling. When I have been able to rev it up, it sounds strong, but when put in gear it is sluggish. I also replaced the fuel filter again today thinking that it must have been dirty. I also noticed condensation in the throttle body. I'm stumped and going broke trying to find the problem. Any advice?

After driving several miles, the light comes on and usually stays on until the engine is shut down. At restart, the whole process takes place again. Is this an ABS sensor problem or something else. What repairs need to be considered? Thanks

Termed on stick. Red oil started running out above middle to right side above right wheel. Pouring. What is causing this

I have a hole in the top of my oil pan that I can't repair so I need it replaced. I'm getting rid of this car on the near future so I'm not wanting to sink much $ into it.

battery light flashes on and off and will die overnight. Replaced battery and it is still doing this. took to advance auto and got readings of: starter test voltage 11.17v, amps 0.0a time 937ms. Charging syster test no problems : no load 14.64v and loaded 14.66vwith ripple at 38mv. However; it says to replace battery; voltage 12.87v measured: 538cca, rated d50cca and temp was 110f. New Alt and new battery???????

My 98 engine overheated and I tried to save it. I have a 2000 jimmy 4x4 engine that looks almost the same but will it fit in my 98?

I been told I have to remove the entire dash also been told to cut a small hole in the plastic glove box an it is located behind there. and yet when I turn the temperature to cool I hear a clicking sound located below the glove box on the passenger side, I have the actuator, but where the factory one is located I can not find any location in Chilton's manual or any other manual.

First, I want to go ahead and thank anyone who takes the time to try to answer my question. Second, the latest model provided in the drop box was for a 1990 model, that is what I selected because it was the oldest. My truck is actually a 1985 GMC Jimmy 4x4 with a 305. I recently changed the starter on the truck but now my headlights will not come on. I have already checked the fuses and they all appear to be good. The starter will start the truck and it was installed according to the manual. can anyone help me out? Could the headlight switch have gone?

Still won't start

Wen warming up the truck, every time, morning, afternoon and night, the idle goes up and down for about 5 minute or till warm up. It doesn't have trouble starting and runs great after warm up. No codes or check engine light on.
Please help. Any advise or info would b greatly appreciated. Thank u.

I HAVE A 2001 GMC JIMMY IT IS BURNING REALLY RICH AND ONLY GETS AROUND 6 TO 8 MILES TO A GALLON. AND IT RUNS AND IDLES ROUGH UNTIL YOU HIT ABOUT 3000 RPMS. I BROUGHT IT TO MY DADS LAST WEEKEND AND WE LOOKED AT IT, WE NOTICED THE FUEL PUMP WILL TURN ON AND THEN TURN OFF LIKE NORMALLY WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY TO START POSITION, BUT AS SOON AS YOU START IT, IT CONTINUALLY RUNS. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED...IM THINKING POSSIBLY FUEL PUMP RELAY?

My car was knocking so i found a rocker arm loose on cylinder 6. The nut was tight to spec 18ft.lb, i tried tightening to 20ft.lb and did not change anything. I put a washer between rocker ball and rocker nut and tighten to 18ft.lb and it worked, i could still move rocker arm from side to side slightly. Now it runs really rough and gives me code P0306. What should i check for. Thank You for ur time.

the tail gate window open,the tail gate door won't open went i push botton on the door.please help.

Weather related? Began after an intense, Ohio Spring downfall. It hasn't rained in a few days and it is still running rough.