so if im at the stop light going to take off goes to 35 if i try to go faster it wont and bogs in and out

Why does my truck stalled when I push the accelerator it started happening all of a sudden one night when I was driving home had to have the truck towed home

I was driving along and all of a sudden my 1998 3500 sierra tried to stall and when I try to push the Excelerator it stalls

Truck misses n loses power

I put in an actuator that I know is good, that one does not extend either, the transfer case shifts into 4 wheel drive and will spin the front drive shaft but the differential will not lock in. I am curious if there is a common wiring issue or if someone knows how much power should be at the front actuator

Truck won't come out of low gear and revs super high rpm between 3.and 4 rpm then sends code

My truck (as listed above), would not start, even though it had power. Check Starter, relays, and fuses. Replaced Starter, still the same, checked fuses again, no fuse listed 'Starter" but found one listed "Crank", it was blown, I replaced it (10 amp), truck started as usual, then started blowing the same fuse repeatedly, and now cannot be cranked at all without blowing the fuse immediately.

It barley started to have this problem were It shut off by it self and it won't start

7.4l 5 speed when I'm going down the road loaded or not after 55 mph when you give it gas you can feel the truck slow do
wn and feel it pick up when you lift the pedal

Seems the last owner installed two 2 inch tubes running to two mufflers in the rear. WHAT IS THE ORIGINAL EXHAUST TUBE SIZE and MUFFLER configuration ? restriction exhaust issue ?

There is good fuel pressure. is there a fuse that can cause it not to start?

It downshifts to 2nd hear, and if I let up, it will again shift up when I am below 40 mph.
Speedometer needle bounces. Speed sensor? Transmission shift sensor? Ideas?

Truck usually starts with no problem then every once in awhile it just does not start. Battery tests fine by evry so often just clicks lights on dash come on but truck does not start... then out of no where do not know why or what but truck will start and run fine for days even weeks/ months but then out of nowhere again will not start and just had to have it towed. Banged on starter n had it tested n tests good and replaced relay n solenoid but still does can someone please help mainly cuz mom likes to drive cuz its BIG n make she feel safer but afraid cuz of issue...
..so thanks ahead of time for any help/answer/s!!?

Greetings and help !; I have a 1990 GMC K3500HD 4WD lifted with a 454 engine. Front brakes tend to jam and heat up when it goes into operational temperature. Already replaced calipers, pads, discs and hoses (custom because of lift). WHEN we test it, it works OK but when it gains operational temperature, the front brakes tend to jam, heat up and the smell of burnt brakes come in... WHAT ELSE ? change lines ? booster ? pump ?

IT runs then shuts off, won't start for days. Then starts runs fine for days or weeks. Now won't start or run at all. Tried fuel pumps and new batteries local GMC dealer washed hands when it came to fixing it.

I had to change my starter but had to take out slave cylinder to remove old starter and put new one in. Before this all took place the clutch pedal worked perfect. After the new starter was in place, I went into cab and pressed the clutch pedal and it had lots of pressure. I wasn't sure why. But I thought I needed to take it out of gear in order to start it, so I pressed the clutch (still had pressure) all the way to the floor; took truck out of gear and started it but the clutch pedal stayed on the floor, so I pulled it up by hand and that's when the rod came out and now just hangs off the pedal. I also found 1metal clip on the floor, so assuming this is for the rod. I never did any bleeding to the slave before putting it back in either. My mistake, hope someone will know exactly what needs to be done. Thank you all, honestly thanks to anyone with knowledge to this question.

I have gone through 5 starts with each starter and then it does not turn over again. could the fly wheel be bent and what do I do now?

Leaking coolant under intake running down back of motor

Just picked up this truck and batteries seem a little weak on start up. Want to change one at a time, so want to change the primary first. Assuming it's the one nearest the starter, but want to confirm that and that you can do just one at a time. Thanks

I try jumping and using ether but still won't start.
Been an ongoing problem, and was getting worse over the last few months. I started by having to jump it, then jumping plus ether.
Used to be the problem was in the mornings, but now almost all the time.
The battery was replaced earlier this year. The fuel pump was replaced last year, the fuel filter was replaced last year.
I borrowed a friends code checker but there are no codes.

Spudders and dies. Dash lights are on but put it in neutral coasting try and start it with no luck. Belt is intact. I've changed the fuel pump relay bad pump. Still not starting. Turns over spudders backfires but never starts. Baught a computer reader for 96 or newer but nothing is codeing bad. But the fuel pump is not completing the self test. I need some possible advice in getting it running again.

I have a 1998 3500 Savannah short School bus that I converted into a vending bus..I drove it for 4 years fine..Last year it started where I have to jump it everyday before I can drive it..Can anyone help me..I do NOT leave anything plugged in.

The comp is not throwing any codes, and I've replaced the plugs, wires, distributor, the electronic ignition switch, o2 sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel filter, air filter, and checked the fuel pump. I'm out of ideas, and can find nothing online and the shop couldn't figure it out. It happens every time it's in gear and I'm on the throttle. If I let off or stay at idle or in neutral it doesn't act up. But but into the wind or under a load it gets worse. Any ideas anyone?

I turn the engen with the fule line diconnect and no fule comes out