Geo Prizm QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My car has been running fine then out of no where my car loses power. The brakes get hard and the car seems like it goes into neutral. I'll shut the car off and let it cool down, even though it never overheats, and then the car will run like normal. This is the second time it's happened this week. I checked all the fluids and nothing is low.
I just bought my 96 prizm, I was driving it home ( brakes are bad ) so as I went slow down I put the car in neutral and pulled emergency brake, stopped. Went to put it back in gear and it wouldn't move. I can move the shifter to any gear. But the car isn't changing gear. And I can roll while the car says it's In park.
The trans shifted smooth all the way home. Didn't jerk or anything
Now if I start the car put it in drive try to go it wont, and when I go back to put it in park it sounds like I'm grinding a gear in a 5speed. If I go from park to neutral and back to park it doesn't grind.
my engine lite comes on and stays on for a few daze the off again. very intemittant. can not get a code reading when it not on..Ifigure EGR. is that the device on the top of the engine that has an 'adjustment valve' on it ???
appreciate the help.. the service manuals I have are only the "block diagram" ones...thanks in advance.
143.000 miles and runs like a 'bdd''
It is leaking bad when engine turns off down by the pump or seals. When i take the radiator cover off It stops. I dont know exactly which one. I am troubleshooting small to big. Air is cold, Heat is fine, Oil is clear, belts are fine. I am at a lost. The Haynes book is not good on pictures either. Anyone out there to help a lady. Thanks
It acted as if it was going to crank at first, but I think it was just the gas in the line. It acts as it there is no gas. I know it Wil be a great car, I just have to get it up and running like the champ that it is. Previous owner DID NOT take care of it and whoever their mechanic was needs a new profession.
I nave replaced bearings, seals,races, cv shafts, had a alignment done. Even bought new tires. I have done everything I know to do what am I missing?
It is a '94 geo prizm stick shift with 94 corolla parts. It will crank but won't fire. How do I fix it
car just quit. No noises. Wasn't running differently. Code 15
My 94 prizim has an external RFID device you place in proximity to the ignitation and activate prior to turning the iginition key to start the engine.
I suspect ther is a ANDTI THEFT SYSTEM MALFUNCTION. Is there a way to bypass the anti theft system?
Uped to 30 amp fuse works a while then blows. Same problem again. Mechanic thinks might be in the compressor. Do I need to replace it?
This model has a small black box (like a garage door opener) that you push a button on and then turn the ignition key to start the engine. I don't think the key is a special resistor type key. The key looks aftermarket and has the printing "Ilco USA X217 and TR47"
It is a stick shift and the clutch must also be 100% depressed (to the floor) for the engine to turn over.
Problem: the car refuses to turn over and start. Battery charged, lights and radio work etc. I have disconected the battery hoping for a reset but all I acomlished was haveing to reset my radio buttons. After an hour or so it restarted and I got it home. Now it refuses to start again.
when hit button nothing no water goes up to window no sound heard
I killed my battery and thought it was bad so I put in a new battery. This battery was too large for the car and I put it in backwards which blew the 100 amp fuse. However, the car will still not start. There is not spark getting to the spark plugs. The ignition fuse is fine. I think I blew something else, perhaps in the distributor. It cranks but does not run. What do you think I blew and how can I fix this. Please tell me what the problem is and how I can fix it.
Wires stripped on master harness
I have a 1995 Geo Prizm 1.6. Yesterday while running some errands the car chugged and acted like it was running out of gas then it died and would not start again. Today I changed the PCV Valve and got it to start. It idles just fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down and eventually dies. After this happens, when I try to start it, it takes a while but will start and idle just fine. If I feather the gas I can tach it out, but if I try to lets say take off normally, it will bog down and idle rough before shutting down alltogether. I've heard the TPS could be at fault, or the fuel filter, or the fuel pump. I've also been told that the ignition coil could be my problem. I just need some more input, any would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
When the car is cold it starts fine, but when the engine warms it takes a bit to start. There is no check engine light while the car is idling.
Inside the car my temperature gage seems to go from cool to middle of hot and stay in middle of gage. I see no water in thing in front. How can I reset codes. To figure out what's wrong.
The car turns over and runs great as long as I feed it starter fluid. I can hear the fuel pump priming so I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel rail and watched a good flow of fuel coming out while I was cranking the engine. With the key in the on position, I put a test light through the yellow wire of each injector and had constant power. The vehicle was my deceased fathers and has been sitting for a 3-4 months, There is evidence of pack rat damage in other vehicles but I have not found any damage so far in this car. My father was a mechanic and was known for jury rigging most things so it is possible he "modified" the car although not likely.
Just wondering as I'm trying to get this car inspected and was told the universal boot is bad and needs replaced to pass inspection.
We were installing the ignition control module. When putting the ignition coil back on a brown wire broke loose and we don't know where it broke loose from. The one end (with the round metal piece) was on the ignition coil and the other is just broken.
Would you be able to tell us where the other end goes?