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Geo Questions

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This model has a small black box (like a garage door opener) that you push a button on and then turn the ignition key to start the engine. I don't think the key is a special resistor type key. The key looks aftermarket and has the printing "Ilco USA X217 and TR47"

It is a stick shift and the clutch must also be 100% depressed (to the floor) for the engine to turn over.

Problem: the car refuses to turn over and start. Battery charged, lights and radio work etc. I have disconected the battery hoping for a reset but all I acomlished was haveing to reset my radio buttons. After an hour or so it restarted and I got it home. Now it refuses to start again.

I need to replace my soft top, but I cannot find replacements for the frame pieces that hold it on. If I can't find these, I'll have to get a hardtop.

The wheel were straight and the steering wheel was not and I came to a stop and a loud pop sound and the car stopped the front left tire was almost broken off. Tow driver said it may be the Front driver side control arm. I car is a bit rusted because it was sitting for two year but moved twice a week.

I've checked the battery and the ground and the fuses still nothing. Any ideas

1994 chevy tracker having brake issue still, (brakes keep building up pressure). I want to do a push rod adjustment, anyone know how to do this on a 1994 Tracker? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Also after shutting off after fully warm won't restart unless accelerator is floored.

to change the Front crankshaft oil seal. We are wondering does the timing belt and the cover need to come off?

After starting and key is returned to run position engine for 30 sec,and quits. It seems like there is a circuit in the run position missing.

Has new tension pully new plugs and wires new head new starter an new motor gaskets

no gas peddle acts like its running out of gas but ...is idles....push on gas peddle and nothing

When I shift it stays in reverse. N.d.d2 and L. Why would it do that?

when hit button nothing no water goes up to window no sound heard

I killed my battery and thought it was bad so I put in a new battery. This battery was too large for the car and I put it in backwards which blew the 100 amp fuse. However, the car will still not start. There is not spark getting to the spark plugs. The ignition fuse is fine. I think I blew something else, perhaps in the distributor. It cranks but does not run. What do you think I blew and how can I fix this. Please tell me what the problem is and how I can fix it.

Wires stripped on master harness

I have a 1995 Geo Prizm 1.6. Yesterday while running some errands the car chugged and acted like it was running out of gas then it died and would not start again. Today I changed the PCV Valve and got it to start. It idles just fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down and eventually dies. After this happens, when I try to start it, it takes a while but will start and idle just fine. If I feather the gas I can tach it out, but if I try to lets say take off normally, it will bog down and idle rough before shutting down alltogether. I've heard the TPS could be at fault, or the fuel filter, or the fuel pump. I've also been told that the ignition coil could be my problem. I just need some more input, any would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

When the car is cold it starts fine, but when the engine warms it takes a bit to start. There is no check engine light while the car is idling.

to the point that I have no pedal. Its not the emergency brakes, cause I checked, its definately the front brakes. what could be causing this?

It rusted to pieces along with the bar in front of the tank plus so r the shock towers what do i do to fix all this?

Inside the car my temperature gage seems to go from cool to middle of hot and stay in middle of gage. I see no water in thing in front. How can I reset codes. To figure out what's wrong.

The car turns over and runs great as long as I feed it starter fluid. I can hear the fuel pump priming so I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel rail and watched a good flow of fuel coming out while I was cranking the engine. With the key in the on position, I put a test light through the yellow wire of each injector and had constant power. The vehicle was my deceased fathers and has been sitting for a 3-4 months, There is evidence of pack rat damage in other vehicles but I have not found any damage so far in this car. My father was a mechanic and was known for jury rigging most things so it is possible he "modified" the car although not likely.

My head gasket blow and I got it fix but ever since it turns off at stops I got it idled high but that just made it race when I stop or I don't have to have my foot on the gas for it to drive so I got it idled back down and I've gotten my spark plugs changed but it still shuts off