Ford Thunderbird QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have been searching and searching and can't figure out why this car won't crank. The IFSS is working as it should. The fuel pressure is at 39PSI when the key is in the on position. There is fuel coming from the Schrader valve. I replaced the fuel filter. Checked all the relays and they all work. I used multiple batteries and they are all pumping out enough juice throughout. Checked the spark plugs, they are not fouled out. They are all in proper sequence. The MAF was cleaned. We even tried using starter fluid into the intake, and it will crank, but not stay running. The fuel pump IS getting 12V.
The intake manifold had been replaced here recently, and since the replacement, it has not ran. Another thing is the fuel looks almost a greenish color when we changed out the filter, so we drained more to check it. It is a yellow/green color. I am thinking the gas is old, and has lost its octane, but I am trying to not have to drain the tank. I am, unfortunately, trying to take the shortcut for now. What is next?
Loose wire? Head? I'm being told it's the head, but reaching under P/S of dash and wiggling wires makes fan come back on. Head is $400+. What is it?
I have checked all 20AMP fusses and I have spark gas in fuel bridal. will not start.
into gear and all it did was slide up and down without engaging, what could this be?
I'm entering all of my expenses off a hand written sheet of 20 years. Your system is a great idea, but difficult to use. Can't seem to correct a wrong entry - like mileage. Can't enter new date without clicking every month going backwards. Extremely time consuming. Am I not using it correctly?
At first was told the crank seal was leaking. Later I found anti-freeze dripping under the car. I do have to add anti-freeze often. Now, maybe the water pump? Mileage is 227,900. I can't afford a new engine(or car). Will repairing afford me more mileage or is engine ready to die?
The problem is intermittent, and sometimes involves a clicking sound from what seems like the transmission, the check engine light is on, but solid, so it isn't a major problem, but it does seem that if it is driven any more like that, something is bound to break. I do not know the diagnostic trouble codes at this time.
I meant to ask how to locate sparkplugs and ignitioncoils on a 2004 thunderbird
Car has 25k miles and I just replaced all spark plugs as engine light was on. Engine light is back on and my mechanic says 2 cylinders need replacement and the other 6 will likely need replacement soon.
It doesn't do it all the time. Sometimes it is just fine and then it will slip. Then it will slip again.
what is the fluid reservoir unit for just opposite side of powersteering reservoir.no idea what to re-fill with.
the reservoir indicates min level.no idea what to fill with
My car won't start.It is a fuel problem and we've narrowed it down to the crankshaft sensor.I want to test the sensor before replacing it.Can someone tell me how to go about it?
It will crank after about 20 minute if sitting
the oil is leaking mildly directly under engine block.
now I am being told the heater control valve assy is needing replaced
OK so the high beams in my moms car won't come on.. I checked all the fuses and she says the lights are new.. You can turn the lights on and everything is fine but when you turn the high beams on there is no lights at all.. She is fixing to take a long road trip and I need to fix this for her.. Help please!?
Firm ride light started flashing and my steering got extremely tight. I've never had the firm ride on so I don't know if that's how its supposed to feel. But after it came on the car would pull left and then went away. Now when I turn hard like to turn in my drive way there was a clunk in the steering wheel. The anti lock break light is also on constantly. Its a joy to drive when working properly but lately its become a money pit
A mechanic said he adds 1 qt. of 20/50 to 10/40 when he changes oil. I asked about the "no Zink" in the new oil not good for older engines. I've used 10/40 for many years, now. Do you think this is a good idea?
Yesterday, going about 50 mph, pulled out to pass and engaged passing gear. Engine immediately stumbled and amber wrench warning light came on. Got home on partial power with engine stumbling badly and could not get past about 40 MPH. An hour later, problem gone. This never happened before. My T-Bird is well maintained and has 47,000 miles. Was this the coil problem, or something else?
no room do I need a small person ????
My car won't DEQ because the computer is not in the drive cycle.
I had a slow leak and they indicated it was the power steering O-Rings, then the new O-Rings were faulty, then it was not the O-Rings, but the power steering hose, now they damaged my pulley - DO THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING??? I took my car to the Ford Dealer because I felt they had knowledge on my car, now I am having second thoughts. I really feel they caused leak because the problem occurred after they changed my fluids in my car and replaced a sensor, which took 7 hours (for a sensor, really).
And the control panel is leaking anti-freeze
Dealer says module is bad and needs replacement. No units are available at Ford or anywhere else. What are my alternatives short of junking a great car with only 45,000 miles?
Will be replacing the PCV valve & fuel filter shortly. Any other hints.
Where is the drain plug to my radiator on my 88 t-bird, and can I use just anti freeze to feel the radiator or do I need to mix it with some water
I have what sounds like tire noise, but it's only during acceloration and I don't hear it when coasting could this be a transmission problem or something to do with the differential?