could it be the catalick convertor?

Automatic door locks are locking and unlocking while the car is moving, interior lights stay on and when parked, theft alarm comes on and off. Battery drains during this

Disconnected and reconnected fuel reset button and for some reason now dosent ever start or try to crank over any insight???

I've pulled 10 different codes, all say Heated O2 sensor. Bank 1 sensor 1. Of course the car is too new to find anything on it. I'm just trying to find some diagram or something to show me which O2 sensor it is and where it's located.

My cars doors won't shut,no matter how many times you try they keep poping open.

The radio works great. Just won't light up unless my headlights are on

Upper intake gases was done

I replaced the rear brake hose and wheel cylinder but at the bottom behind the back part of the drum system is a hose coming from the front that seems to be leaking brake fluid. Is this the parking brake hose? Could it be leaking? If so do I need to replace it or gix the leak? I am a driver so I need my car working correctly. Soon as I added fluid and started pumping brake under pressure it started to leak.

Already replaced 3 coils, plugs and car still coming up with same codes

While the car is in park u can hear it sputtering. The car was sitting for awhile before I bought it. My car only has 105,740 miles on it. Can u help me

I just let it run for about 10 mins yesterday with no problem, battery and alternator both showed fine voltage. It'll turn over, and almost start but instead the car backfires sometimes and the car shakes and putts. When it did start, as soon as u put it in gear you could tell a huge difference. While in park, it sounds just fine, running good. But then when u put it in reverse it putts and the car shakes slightly, lights dim, and flicker.

I drove it fine for a day, and it seemed to chug a little while idling in gear. Some day I backed it out of my driveway and it died and wouldn't start without a jump. After that it started fine but whenever I put it in gear the lights would flicker and the car would shake slightly. Would not happen while in park. Now I can't get it to start at all, it turns over. And sometimes it sounds like it's about to start but the car just shakes and instantly shuts off. Checked the battery and alternator, both were giving plenty of voltage. Can hear the fuel pump turn on. Put in heet and gas since it was running low. Nothing helped

What else $300 later...did plugs too.

My car ran out of gas on the highway Christmas Eve night. I returned to the car with gas and it will turn over a couple times and then it seems like the whole engine locks up. The fuel pump is coming on but it was loud when normally I can't hear it. My truck is broken down and now my car is to!! Anybody have any ideas??

In summer the heat wouldn't stop, I could turn the fan off but heat would NOT stop coming through the vents. Now, no heat at all- fan works great, I've been told it's the "flap stuck" most likely. How do I diagnose?

don't know if we may have snapped in wrong wire to something else maybe forgetting proper place it went ?

When it goes bad it has rough idle
Some times the engine will
Shut off to
Y is this abv keep going bad
Only after two days plz advise

steering was making a noise and pulling to the left. Today it won't steer at all. My mechanic said he will not honor warranty on rack and pinion because he no longer deals with the parts dealer. I have lost faith in the guy.

When driving down the road. Coming to a stop light. Once you come to a stop. The Car bucks hard. Down into 1st gear.

A couple of weeks ago all of the guages in the car lit up and it refused to start. I jumped the battery and thats when the irradic shifting started. It always shifts hard to first but second gear is different. Sometimes it shifts to 2nd way too earl and sometimes not at all until i feather the gas. It happens the worst on a hill. I tried disconnecting the battery for 30 min then i replaced the battery thinking i wasnt getting 12v to the shift solenoid. Checked the condition and level of fluid. No difference. Also the fuel level guage and readout ( needle and number ie..12miles to e) are behaving completely irradically. Could these two issues be related electronically or do i more likely have a physical transmission problem?

Ineed to bypass the tirqe converter

The battery light never goes off. After started and running or driving for a few minutes the information display reads check charging system. I can reset the display with the buttons on the dash but the red battery will not shut off, and eventually the display beeps loud and long and reads check charging system again. Never the same amount of time in between each reset Replaced starter after it tested bad, the alternator after it tested bad, replaced pigtail, and installed new + & - cables. Still have to jump start??