Ford Ranger QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Does anyone know what size bulb is used for the check engine light? It's smaller than the instrument panel light.
I was driving and when i stopped and put the vehicle in park, and tried to put it in drive again to leave but the truck wouldn't drive. The truck had only the reverse gear. what are some causes and possible solutions?
it is an automatic transmission.
Is there any additives I can add to my power steering pump to quieten it. I heard lubegard might help. Any expert opinions?
Its leaking antifreeze near the thermostat housing and its puddling up behind it what's wrong?
Any other helpful information for this job?
How do you restore the compression and increase my power of motor need to know what is recommended whether I to overhaul need a rebuild kit or what any suggestions accepted
When put in gear and you release the clutch you hear a clanking noise as you're going down the road and you shift gears you hear aclanking noise it only does that when 1st 2nd 3rd 4th and reverse
When on highway I have a whining noise in fifth gear only 5th gear more I accelerate louder it gets
4.0 5speed 4wheel drive
i had the head gaskets replaced and about 200 miles later i lost oil pressure and stopped when i tried to restart the engine had froze up
i had oil but had lost water
i had the head gaskets replaced and about 200 miles later it lost oil pressure, i stopped and when i tried to restart the motor had froze up
there was no water in the oil but it had lost water
1992 Ranger Ext cab 2wd. We are 2nd owners. 176K mi. ~ out of nowhere, my son was driving to work, he called to say the "rear end" sounded odd? I had driven it all wk, no prob? Then later, after parked for 8hrs, it RATTLES & CLANKS@any acceleration. Driving it vibrates & sounds like noise is coming from the rear. Outside it sounds like LOUD BB's & clanking metal?
location of, test to determine if the sensor is defective. crank but no start. getting gas
Estimate of 1 hour to replace cruise control switch on 2000 Ranger but 30 minuted on Explorer - Same switch used for both cars.
Ok, he we go, i have my girlfriends 2005 ford ranger, 3.0 v6. I took it my friends shop where we changed the sparkplugs, wireset, and fuel filter. When we cranked it back on, all hell just broke loose. What's happening right now is that it's cranking on, it idles well, but when put into drive and driven, starts shaking and I hear popping noises, and clicking sounds, i accelerate to about 40, then the check engine starts flashing and it begins to slow it's self down. I've put the pedal all the way to the floor but it just won't go.. at a stop light, the engine is misfiring bad. When we placed a scanner on it, we got random misfires at start, misfire in cylinder 1 and 3, and something about system too lean bank one. We have changed the spark plugs again, the wireset again, the fuel filter again, we have replaced the throttle positioning sensor, we cleaned out the idle control valve, replaced injectors one and three, and 5 and 6, we have replaced intake manifold gasket, we have checked compression I believe, and I honestly don't know what else to do, spark plugs one and three had to be changed again because they were all black and burned, i mean, don't get me wrong, it turns on amazing now, with a misfire or two, but once it's placed into drive, and speeds of 30-45 are met, check engine blinks and popping and clicking begin until I let go of the pedal, then I press on again slowly, and the same will occur. Someone please help me. I don't have much money left to keep trying to figure this out.
replaced the thermostat and blower is working fine
power steering pump went out so i want to bypass it for, auto zone sold a belt that's 60" but it won't fit
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 flex fuel, and the engine was just replaced and that is working fine, but now the engine light turned on and i keep getting Solenoid Circuit Malfunction codes for Solenoid 1,2,and 3. Does that mean that my trans is gone (because it was working perfectly fine before the engine swap) or could it be something else?
Somebody told me it was either my actuator or my heater control valve. I located the valve and whoever had the truck before I did, zip tied the plunger closed. I took the zip tie off and the heat started working but my temperature gauge would fluctuate from normal to hot no matter what I done. Can anyone tell me if I need to replace the control valve or what?