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Ford Probe Questions

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car has performed perfect now problems, just shut it off and the next morning tried to start it and let it warm up would not start. engine turns over just fine,seems as though it is not firing.

it use to start fine, but then i had to pump the clutch a few times before it would start,so i replaced the clutch master cylinder and bleed it like crazy but now even pumping the clutch don't work, what could it be, i replaced the starter about 8 months ago.

It's a Mitsubishi 16 valve ohc

it was pouring down i drove home with no wipers no heater no radio and no eletric windows when i got home turned ignition off and back on again and everything worked again but the engine would,nt turnover not even a click absolutely baffled me. any ideas what it could be thanks

Bought a ford probe not running. Guy we bought it from thought it was the distributer cap and rotor so we replaced those two. We also replaced the crank shaft position sensor and we have a fat spark so we know its not the sensor. There is pressure in the fuel line so we don't think its a fuel problem. Spark plugs were also replaced. We are exasperated with this car. Any help?

seems to have good throttle response for first 5 to 7 minutes, then gradual loss of power through rpm range. after 8 minutes, car starts to idle rough, and a hesitation/miss develops on quick, hard acceleration, followed by engine stall. the fuel filter has been replaced, and the catalyitic converter is missing. there is no check engine light visible....

replaced battery and connectors and still no power at all

They checked all but the injectors they say a lot fuel going out the exhaust pipe

When its on neutral and I try to shift to 1st gear to second gear the clutch pedal gets stock and won't let me shift. I ha e to turn the car of to take it up again also this happens when I am reversing. How can I fix this? Help please.

Drove the car and all of the sudden it came to a stop.The fuel cutoff light came on replaced it and will not start.

car cranks but no click or hum from pump.

This car Is Man Was Running Beautifully until one day no spark at all, so new coil, and crank angle sensor in the Dist, New C/A sensor at front Crank. New Oxygen sensors,New Plugs & Leads, In car Injector Flush,New Air Flow Meter, New Coolant Ecu Sender, And Still as soon as you push accel moderately the engine hesitates Back fires, then will rev smoothly under 3000 rpm onwards but if you bury the acc it dies and backfires.
Its Had the fuel pressure reg checked, injectors replaced, ant tested.
first codes i got were
PO100 MAF/VAF- CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
PO110 IAT - CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
PO115 ECT - CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
Te coolant temp sender ect been solved. as the sensor was cracked at top, new replacement put in.
cleared codes and none codes commimng up at present.

The car is dead but lights, radio, etc. work. When I turn the key there is no sound at all.Any ideas what it could be be?Checked the starter and that seems fine, externally. I know it's probably a coincidence but the only maintenance I did to the car was to replace a head light the day prior to not starting. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

happens every time i drive my car .the engine doesnt seem to be affected.

with a noid light check. cyls 1,2,3 all flash with eng cranking = normal oper. at cyl 4 the problem cly , the noid lights stays on
and does not flash . checked the connector and wires to fuel
injector at cyl 4 = ok . it it ther pcm that is the cause for the incorrect injector pulse at cyl 4?

already replaced fuel injector and fuel pressure regulator , timing belt new, plugs ,wires and cap new .compression good approx 170-180 at all 4 cyls

What could be wrong? I installed a new battery and it is acting like there is no battery installed. No horn no spark no click no lights- nothing!

V6 Auto runs and drives good , just wont shift

ROUGH IDLE AND LOSS OF POWER. ROUGH ACCELERATION AND STALLS

No power, rough idle, replaced plugs wires, plugs, distributor .

Intermittent but not Random. No misfire under load or while driving. It idles and run rough while stopped after 15 minutes of driving in temperatures above 50 degrees. Runs smoother in temperatures under 50 degrees and sometimes while raining.

Maintenance - 2011-2013

No codes

Vacuum - 22 in. HG Steady = Good

Compression - Good

Fuel Pressure - Key on, not running, 40 psi = Good

Fuel Pressure - Key on, engine running, 32.5 = Good

Spark plugs replaced - 2012

Spark plug wires replaced - 2012

Distributor and cap replaced - 2012

Coolant Temperature sensor replaced - 2011

Throttle position sensor replaced - 2012

Camshaft position sensor replaced - 2013

I listened to each of the 6 fuel injectors. 4 sounded smooth but 2 are a bit noisy. But all are working.

Oil changed - Jan. 2013

Fuel filter changed - March 2013

Coolant Changed - Feb. 2013

Valve cover gaskets replaced - June 2012

Fuel system cleaned - Feb. 2013

Throttle body cleaned - March 2013

EGR valve - applied vacuum, the engine stalled. It passed.

NOT CHECKED

Ignition timing. May have been adjusted when distributor was replaced. Not sure.

The fuel strainer on the fuel pump not checked but fuel presser is good.

It runs perfect for about 10 mins or less until temp gauge is mid-range, then starts mis-firing.

bottom hose isnt hot too the touch...fan wont come on until you unplug it....whats wrong...need help quickley

took plugs out turned it over and there was coolent coming out were the plugs go

If I have built in RPM Limiter on my 2.0 Ford Probe can I disable it.

I changed the calipers and the brakes and the hoses and the brakes still continue to lock up can only drive maybe 2 blocks. also changed the paportion valve but was from salvage yard

ok it has lose of power and ever now an then it back fires in the intake