just got the car, and the heat is coming out of the vent by the floor o the passagener side only, when then the heat isn't on, the air conditioner isn't work we know its the motor is shot.

could it be a recal that I read about?

These problems all seemed to occur at once. about a week ago, I had thought it was the misfiring that my spark plugs were causing so i replaces them and the wires but the light stayed on. Today I had bought a ODB2 device and used it. It told me the codes, I looked them up on this site and I just need to know how to fix them without going to a shop.

I was told that my 04 Mustang 3.9 had a bad PS pump because it whines. I have no difficulty steering or turning as it turns both ways freely. I changed the PS fluid and it still whines. Any suggestions ? a belt maybe?

It sounds like the motor is hitting the hood IT does this noise until you get your speed up to 60 then it stops What could be causing this

Would it be something with the acceleration or a sensor I turned it off and back on and it ran fine home had a terrible sound starting up though I prefer not to drive it til the problem is clear

Every time I drive i can hear the squeak even on a road with no bumps. I hear it also when the engine settles. During harsh bumps I hear it. I kick the tire and the car shakes and squeaks. When I close the trunk it squeaks. It sounds like it could be the catalytic converter but I'm not sure. Thank you for your suggestions.

It appears that the belt idler pulley on a used mustang that I'm looking at buying is not in contact with the belt. The belt just runs right over it. The car seems to runs
fine though. Why is that? Can a car run alright with out that pulley connected, or should I expect problems? Should I attempt to re-connect it? There doesn't appear to be any damage.

am facing this problem from past 3 days, at low speeds the limp home mode doesn't come on, once it reaches above 80km or 90km
the limp home mode light comes on in the RPM meter

after checking through the scan meter
i got the
P0741 error
Torque Convertor Clutch Solenoid Circuit Performance Or Stuck Off

please help

It started when I backed up fast

The dealer said I would have to replace convertible top but I was told there was a way without that expense

The test light is lighting up when I touch anything under the hood. I have disconnected everything like music and even the whole battery.. Still testing positive. I was stranded at work and ended up getting the car towed because it wouldn't start so I brought a starter battery and alternator. Still no start..the test light lights up when I touch negative?

Had Freon put in. It worked for about two weeks. I took it back. He said it still had Freon in it. He checked fuses. What else could it be. He did not know what was wrong.

Also stuttering during acceleration. On board diagnostic system does not work

Stutters hard taking off at first , usually eases right up. Slight whistle when u barely push pedal. No gaskets or hoses leak at all.

the gas gage goes down to zero when actually almost half full, car will not run if no gas added. also the gas pumps will keep shutting off and car will not take gas when on a long trip, takes forever to get any gas it it and cannot fill it up.

My battery light came on awhile ago, so I replaced the battery. It now will come on every and now and then. Just randomly I will be driving and it will come on and then a minute later go off. I have got alternator tested at Autozone and they said it was good. I have also tested it myself. Even pulled over on side of road to test it with voltmeter, when the battery light was on. Alternator was charging at 14.48 volts when car was idling. And resting battery when car was off was 12.71. Why is the light coming on?

pads and rotors

temp guage goes up while car is still, at red light etc., and goes down to normal when moving. wiring hookup at the fan motor itself has a lot of play in it