Ford Mustang GT QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I originally replaced the brake pads but not the rotor on the rear passenger side. After hearing squeaking I decided to replace the rotor as well. When I replaced the rotor, I also changed the previous pads I had installed with another pair of new pads but the squeaking/dragging sound is still happening when at a slow roll. When I apply the brakes the noise is not heard. And the rotor disc seems to be getting extremely hot compared to the opposite side. Also, on the replaced pads/rotor side brake dust is heavy after driving a several miles, whereas I never had a brake dust problem, even when the woren pads were on. Please advise.
front left wheel is rubbing against hub when turning left. Power steering and brake fluid leak
after 10 mn.it will start again ,but shuts down 5 mn. after running,i have changed all modules,what else could it be im so confused,,
CAR TAKE A COUPLE OF TRIES TO START ON COLD DAYS - TAKEN TO AUTO SHOP AND IT WOULD ALWAYS START. IT ONLY HAPPENS ON REALLY COLD DAYS AND AFTER SITTING OVERNIGHT OR A WHILE. PROBLEM NEVER OCCUR IN THE SUMMER MONTHS.
My preasure hand moves when im jus sittn still
On the clutch it wont come out of first why wont it how do I fix it
second from the fire wall.She owned since 2001.2000 mus
Engine is strong. No fault codes
move forward but then won't move back.
My 08 GT has a shaker 500 that searches for cds and then gives error randomly while the key is off and any time there is a voltage change I.e. light comes on or goes of, trunk lod open or closed, doors open or closed etc.
Have a 72 302 ford engine in a 78 cobra 2. It was grinding bad when starting. Looks like a new flywheel is in order. How much to have a new flywheel put in, parts and labor. I was quoted 500, does this sound right?
I have checked all fluids and tranny not slipping, when at idle engine sounds and feels fine,but in gear it bogs down, holds rpms but not moving very fast--thank you-tom
1994 Ford Mustang loses power when driving let up off the gas for a minute and mash down and start running good check the fuel pump wires and plugs distributor cap still losing power you have any idea
66 mustang 302. car is dieing with no warning after idling for 2 minutes or 10 minutes. sometimes longer and sometimes not so long. it does the same thing when driving it. my temp guage pegs out hot when i turn the ignition to the on position. replaced the temp sending unit. still doing the same thing.
not sure what to try next. any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
when i drive at night i have to hurry home before dark.i have no diagnostic code but i did change my headlights to a one pieces sets and use the new wire that came with the sets.never had no trouble until i made the change.
Put key in door, windows come down & won't go back up, locks don't click, lose radio, headlights, turn signals, air conditioning/heat/defroster. Have installed new ignition switch & new relay device and have 2 new keys. Also trouble shifting out of park when starting car. Car starts and runs fine, battery & alternator fully charged.
Number 2 cam support on passanger side is exceeding worn and so is the cam. Can it be repaired or must it be replaced
Tried it again sounds like the starter is not ingauging. Test the starter a N wirk just fine.had the flywheel replace.
I was pulling into the drive way which was covered with snow. I had the traction control turned off. I stepped onto the gas to turn the car around in the driveway. It was a controlled 180 degree turn. In the middle of the turn, the advance trac disabled itself and would not let the car move at all. It would not go forward or backward. I live on a slight hill. Turned the car off for 5 minutes, shoveled the snow, the advanced trac disabled light went off, and I could barely move the car before the red light came on again.
The car is an automatic and has done this (3) times since. The dealer says he cannot find anything wrong. Has anyone else had this issue?
2003 GT 128000km just change front hub bearing left and
right, break are brand new all around disc pads and front caliper just replace rear struts and axel damper, so its starts litle wille ago when exiting hiway turning right side rear wheel knoking and grinding not that loud but when i pull in the drive way turning right side its grinding and knocking loud but allways on the side rear wheel,parking thight turn is the same...seam that when the car is cold it dosnt do it there is nothing slacks everything tigh so my mechanics thinks that may be something in the axel and got smal vibration coming from the end of the transmison (automaticozorus) so next step is opend uo the rear diff to see whats in it ..
it tries to stalls out
I need to pass my CT state emissions test for my registration, but 4 readiness monitors are not engaging. It's mostly garage kept, has 14,000 miles, has a big K&G cold air intake, and the previous owner had a super chip tuner installed. Recently the battery died so I was told I needed to drive it more so that the CAT, O2 sensor, and EVAP, etc... can engage. After driving over 200 miles so far no dice.
1. What's the exact/proper drive cycle for a 2005 Mustang GT so that the monitors will come alive?
2. Do would suppose the super chip have disabled the monitors in anyway?
3. If I can't get the monitors to engage, would I need to reverse the tune back to the factory tune?
Thanks in advance
I need an answer as qiuckly as possible
I cant remember all the codes... there were three, but one was a drive shaft sensor(?)The estimated price... the last one...is around One Thousand. The car runs for a while and then just stalls. I let it sit and then restart it. sometimes this happens once out every three trips. Sometimes several times a trip.