Ford Mustang GT QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Alternator on changed it again,new pigtail on alternator,ran new grounds neg. and POS. to battery and starter,checked all fuses,took aftermarket stereo out didn't help.problem started when the ground wire rubbed and arched out.
after driving 20 minutes or so or if i let the casr idele for 5 to 10 minutes the idle gets VERY ROUGH and engine starts clatteing and wants to die.. If i give it gas it will rev up and straighten out until i come to a stop again . It will start all over... I was told that the 2 cam or kam sensors are bad. would this cause this problem? I read where just because a code says the sensors are bad that it could also be other things such as drive belt or timing ? also when i got the car it had a slight ticking in the motor it has rapidly turned into a pretty noisy tapping like a loose rodcker arm sound. I recently had an oik change thats when i was told the sensors were out, could these sensors have anything to do with the noisy tapping.. ? it is REALLY Bad when I first start the engine before the oil is fully circulating.. The engine revs high upon starting for about 10 seconds and then it idles down to normal.. engine light is on....also. recently the battery in the remote door lock and unlock went weak or dead and the car would not go into drive, a friend showed me the bypass lever . I replaced the batery and that solved the problem but i noticed right away that the brake pedal is extremely soft since that incident. someone told me to disconnect the ground cable for 15 minutes and the computer would reset and solve that problem. I havent done it yet . would that do anything beneficial?
I was just trying to get a ballpark figure for replacing lifters or timing chain
Car stalls and cuts off but cranks right back up
i want to put the 94 front clip on the 1967 mustang how many head aches am i looking at?
Is this going to cause a inspection rejection.
Only when it rains I tried hosing it from inside the hood under the car. Anyone else having this problem
I recently had my Mustang's clutch replaced and when you start out in 1st gear, the car is slow to accelerate. Even when you try to floor it just slowly climbs to a higher RPM. When I originally bought it, you could floor it and the tires would spin. Is it possible I got a bad clutch installed?
It's been a problem for a few years. Everytime it rains, I see a puddle of water in the back seat of my car and the floorboard is wet. The top has no visible holes or cracks and it still looks new.
My overdrive has a hard time getting over even slight inclinations but my drive seems perfectly fine.
My door keeps not shutting and it takes me a good minute to get it to shut.
My car shakes when I slow down, but only at a very specific speed.
my car leaks really badly from somewhere around the hood and it comes in through the bottom. I wrecked it and they didn't fix it correctly. now it won't start and I just put a new battery in it do you have any ideas on what the water could have damaged I have been driving it like this for about a year and it always starts it just has a lot of water inside
im getting a p050e code
code P050E how to fix
Cleaned Mass Air Flow
Trying to find how & clean Idle Air Control
has 145000 miles ,
things to watch out for ?
When I pull the alternator fuse to troubleshoot a little. my car starts right up but when I put the alternator fuse back in it turns over and will not start...
A few days later after some investigation was pulling alternator to get tested. Noticed cable on ground under car and found it to be the long starter to starter relay cable and believe it was torn off by tow truck equipment. Am almost done replacing that cable and am taking the alternator in to get tested tomorrow. The two people who have been nice enough to listen to me at parts stores however tell me probably not the alternator causing the problem. Does any one have another idea what else to look at? Thanks everyone!
I put synthetic oil in my brand new Mustang, and used synthetic oil for the last 3 oil changes. I found out I'm not supposed to in the GT. Can I switch back to regular oil or a blend without harming the engine?
Keep reading about Can-Bus computer system which would reject LED bulbs.
Either replace the motor, or sell the car as is. I have a mechanic friend that is going to replace it with a crate motor for $3,500-$4,000 its a new motor so it comes with a 100,000 mile/3-year warranty. Is this worth it? I'm $7k deep into this money pit due to unneeded suspension replacement trying to chase down a squeak that I never found, and also from rebuilding the transmission...
Engine tick, thought it was timing chain tensioners. Then the tick jumped to the opposite side of the engine(it was on passenger front, now it's on driver rear, yes I can feel the tick with my hand). I did an oil change, and it has tons of metal flake in the oil.
The motor only has 110,000 miles which is aggravating because these motors are supposed to be bulletproof.
SO! idk what the tick is, but the metal in the oil shows that I need a new motor... or a whole rebuild.... Is this car worth another $4,000? (just to repeat, I've already replaced the transmission. So almost all of the major components of the car have been replaced.) I know I'll never even break even at this point with this car, but I don't know if it is worth keeping this car alive.