Ford F-150 Questions

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Vehicle history: Truck started idling rough (should say "rougher" since I've always had a slight rough idol since purchasing the vehicle used in 2006) and misfiring about a year and a half ago. Then sat for 1 and a half years only being started and driven once in a blue moon. Now I need to get it back on road. In addition to rough idle, vehicle now has crappy acceleration and will shake when at around 45/50. Seems to not want to shift sometimes due to crap acceleration. Also, I get a feint smell of fuel after getting out of the vehicle sometimes but not every time I drive it (not sure if its from exhaust or from under hood yet) so I haven't driven it for fear of messing up cats.

First things I did was replace spark plugs, oil change, oil filter and I checked all the other fluids when I began this whole process.

Codes: Went to AutoZone and got codes P0174 and P2198. Check engine light was on back when this started a year and a half ago. It' still on and now newly flashing when I get going above 45 ish/use the truck for more than 10-15 minutes.

Auto zone suggested pcv valve but then gave me wrong $3 valve. Went another place and got correct one for $25. Replaced that. Also cleaned MAF sensor. Checked both pcv hoses and elbows which seem to be fine, especially checked one behind throttle body. All looks ok. Put water in each one and held to check for leaks. No leaks.

Plan to do: Replace fuel filter and swap o2 sensors from driver to passenger sides to rule out bad o2 sensor on bank 2.

On right path? What else should I do?

vacuum leak I cant find? Fuel injectors dirty? Fuel pump going bad? Bad cats? Coil packs? I hate these codes because it seems like there are so may things or combo of things that could be f upped. Also, is there an icv on 2004 Ford F150 stx 4.6 v8? I'll clean that tomorrow if there is one. I know most ppl say vacuum leaks but I'm honestly afraid to start shooting carb cleaner all over place and I have limited tools.

Someone suggested removing maf sensor for quick text drive. Did that and rough idle seemed to get better but still no acceleration. Also, when I replaced pcv valve and reset system, I swear it drove better that night. Next morning the rough idle and check engine lights came back (both staying on sometimes and blinking others).

Limited funds but would say I'm step or two above amateur when it comes to mechanical skills.

Please help. Need to get this fixed. Sorry if TMI...when I read questions without ppl being descriptive I go crazy. Thanks in advance fellas.

back 3-4 mo ago, then it started working and now its like its not even there. if I stall it then it will go into reverse or just put it in different gears sometimes it will go in. 170K , 5 speed

it just started its been fine. I replaced to started an alternator couple months ago

it just started its been running fine I replace starter an alternater about 3 months ago

1997 ford f 150 when truck heats up gauges go quarter off. Amp hand discharge and oil pressure goes red side.

it turns, but will not fire

blower under hood will stay on for 5 seconds after engine is shut off as well.

Can i just get one put on to pass emissions or have to have both and what will it cost me ? Please let me know!!

I am wanting to know how I can fix this problem

as the wheel rotates, there is an intermittent grinding or scratching noise. I've had the wheel off, pads are good, i thought a possible trapped stone. Can not be heard with wheel off the ground. I have not taken the pads off. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

turned key over to start the truck and heard clicking now will not start.. Battery good. Power to starter but still when I turn the key nothing

I believe its my starter

Occurred once in february 2016-no codes showing; occurred again in September 2016; shop says codes are leaning toward throttle body replacement and computer update? Saw that 2011 model was recalled for this issue

I just had to replace the bearings on my passenger front about 2 months ago, and it's starting to get bad again. What can I check to make sure that they'll last longer? My drivers side front bearings are still perfect.

My seat in the back folds down flat. It squeaks like mad when it's up in the full seat position. I rarely put it down, almost never. When someone sits back there it doesn't squeak. It's driving me mad!

I have a replacement gas tank that we're taking off of a parts truck, and it has residue in it. How do I remove said residue without harming the new gas that will be put into it or the tank itself?

I was told it something to do with theft warning signal

It was recommended I just buy a new engine for the truck, but is there any alternative?

I was told I only have two options. I have no idea which would be the better investment.

The last mechanic I'd taken the truck to gave up after hours of attempting to remove it.

I paid only five hundred dollars for the vehicle. I love the thing but I've been told it's in need of a new engine. How much should I expect to pay for both the engine and the work to replace it?

It seems like every time I turn on or change over to AC or the heater, there is a lot of creaking going on. Is this a problem?

I clean this often, but in no time, there is a huge blue pile of corrosion on top of the negative battery terminal. Why?

i.e. the steering wheel wiggles a little bit back and forth, like a strong vibration.

Need to know the spark plug gap using autolite 5144 copper plugs

What is the best way to to get at and remove the number 7 spark plug on a 2002 F-150 with a 5.4? Do I have to remove the fuel rail to get at the cop and the plug? Is there any tools I need to make or modify?

is compressor getting worn out?

can low brake pads and shoes cause this or just master to check booster?

have 8amp draw kills battery have pullsd sll fuses relays radio headlight switch ele defrost heater controls hot wire battery to alternator no luck truck will start with hot battery takes 4to5 hrs to die

haye 8amp draw pulled evey fuse&relay pulled radio& headlight switch still have same draw