Ford Bronco Questions
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applied electret grease to the pcm and bulkhead connector, replaced the distributor electronics,r&r crank sensor,ignition mod on the driver fender, new plugs, all started when rain crank no start, replaced plugs ,crank sensor and distributer electronics no start next day started drove till next rain ,after rain no start, greased the pcm , bulkhead connectors started drove Two days washed and again no start, with air gun dried pcm n bulkhead connectors started 2 days driving engine started popping,loss power stalling with restart than died crank no start, has 40 psi fuel psi pump runs please help if can thank you
I bought this truck wrecked and it had set up a couple of years. It runs really good on the highway but it's idling really fast (1100 to 1600 rpm) and it floods really bad once you turn it off. I have t hold the pedal to the floor to restart it and then it sputters for a while until it levels out again, I'm probably getting about 6 mpg right now. One friend thinks its the throttle position sensor and another thinks its the fuel pressure regulator. The local part stores in my area only have adapters to test the codes for Fords going back to 1997 and I can't afford to take it to the Ford dealer. My plan is to start replacing parts I can buy online one at a time until I find the right one. Mass air flow sensor and idle air control sensor are other other possibilities but are further down my list. Any advice would be appreciated.
I have power to rear window switch not to key switch window used to go down a few inches but only a half inch now how can I get it down to open tail gate and replace tail light's
what would cause my manifold to start turning cherry red on both sides? not only that but now it sounds like my rockers are hitting somewhere.
So I have a set of spark plug wires on my truck but this is the third set I have currently been through in the last year. The wires and boots begin tearing causing spark and electrical discharge. What am I to do to keep this from happening. I am wanting to get the long tube performance wires but I don't have the money for it and I don't know if they would be any better. What should I do. I'm going to buy a new set tomorrow but what can I do to prevent them from tearing?
My truck is a daily driver but I recently had a mechanic replace the fuel pump and sending unit. Now after a few weeks when I hit a bumpy road or a bump it shuts the fuel pump off. I can wiggle the pump on top of the tank on the sending unit and every now and then it turns the pump back on. What do I do. I've worked on vehicles for awhile but this is new to me.
I have bought two brand new water pumps from O'Reilly and the ball bearing have come off attached to the fan and cut through my radiator and it happened to the one that was on it then two new one's. can someone please tell me how I might fix this. My bronco also shakes and vibrates really bad.
Looking at buying a bronco but the 4x4 shifter is not connected it just swings freely and can actually be just lifted up and pulled out. Is there a simple connection for this or is it a much bigger problem???
Misses on idle--Hasn't had tune-up in long time
I can't get it to move at all in 2 wheel drive high and 4 wheel high is the same way? So, I tried 4 wheel low and it works?
Transmission has fluid, but, the transfer case was very low in fluid. It actually wouldn't go into 4 low till after adding fluid to transfer case.
And, now that is the only way it will drive? (No problem shifting)
Did I blow my transmission?
When I stop and put in park the trans will continue to pull slightly, when engine is shut off it will roll back till it catches the "park" gear. Also is slipping and trying to start off in second... I think she's crapped out on me......
When the old ford is turned off, the battery drains. I put an amp meter in series and can see the drain. (I think it was 150-200ma.) I then break the circuit by taking the amp meter and removing it from the battery. I do this for 1 second and then reconnect the wires to put the amp meter back in series. The drain is gone! I then turn the ignition on and off, and the drain is back. It continues to drain until the circuit is broken.
I then found that the batter drain quits if I leave all those wires connected, but disconnect the positive wire to the alternator for just a moment. Again, I turn the ignition back on and off and the drain starts all over again.
The car appears to work just fine other than the drain. The alternator is charging the battery. Is the regulator fried?
I also have brake groan? What would fix this?
Finally, I need suspension work and need to know where would be the best place to go for a 4" lift procedure?
I have a 92 ford bronco and the defrost works but won't switch to floor or dash vents! What could be wrong and what can I do to fix it?
Runs well great power etc. At very slow speed in Drive rpm fluctuates up and down approx 150rpm 6-750 rpm. Check engine light comes on when slow running. Poor fuel economy. At 1200-1300@30-35 mph the cqar surges and jerks. Codes 42 - HO2S sensor voltage high/system rich. O2 sensor changed. rebuilt engine approx 20,000 miles
5.8 lt when driving there is no real power max speed about 30 mph runs back and forth thru 1st 2nd and 3rd. What would cause this and how can i fix it.
Engine will not crank. The electrics come on. Speedo also sweeps back and forth and ODO has strange readout. I've seen the sppedo and ODO issue before but never had a no crank issue until now. Are they related?
the Arizona standard is 4.0 and I received a 5.27. This is for the Eddie Bauer Edition.
89 Bronco Last time started and I put it in gear and it died. I smacked the steering column. Now it won't do a thing.
It has a brand new A/C compressor but the A/C system is inoperable and needs service according to owner.
My truck died about 2 weeks ago due to loose Connections on my solenoid. Once I fixed the loose connections I noticed my speedometer wasn't working. I checked fuses. Fuses are all good.
Okay I found out why it kept dying on me when I come to a stop. The transmission filter had come loose and was just laying in the pan. So I replaced that and change my fluid. Now it says for that motor with the deep transmission pan, that's what I have, that it takes 6 quarts, after filter, to fill up. I have put 7 quarts in and still don't show on dipstick. Yes I am letting it warm up and in park while I check it. Everybody I have ask don't know what's the problem. It's junping while I shift it from park to drive or park to reverse also. Help please
I replaced the battery and the car started right away. I didn't use the car for about a week. When I tried to start it after that the battery was dead. I made sure that nothing was left on. I exchanged the battery with another new one, the car started right away. I took it to the auto place to check the electrical system and was told everything looked good. I did not start the car again for about a week. Again the battery was dead. This happened 3 times. What should I do now? Thanks for any help you can give me.
when i start it runs fine when i step on the gas it idles high an never stops
I have a 96 Bronco in excellent condition and I drive it daily. But here lately it has been dying on me when I come to a stop. But if I shift it into neutral right before I come to a stop, it don't cut off. It shifts fine, transmission fluid looks good, and I'm just stumped on what is causing it. Maybe the alternator?
I cant find a short or bad ground anywhere. It has a brand new (icm) ignition control module, new plugs and wires, new crank sensor, new relays, and new coil. Once in a blue moon it will fire right up. But most of the time it wont do nothing but turn over. But like i said i changed all of that out and im getting power to my coil and (icm) but still no fire! What could be causing this??