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My 2002 Ford Explorer won't go in Park. I have to turn the car off to get it to stop. Only goes in reverse. The gear shift is on the steering wheel. This happens every time I crank it up

does not blow out coolant.

the serpentine belt just replaced last night but a/c compressor has seized up. I was told the compressor would cost at least $1000. is there a way to by pass the compressor with a shorter belt?

Lite bulb out, how to change it?

Ac has freon but compressor will not engage and blowing hot air.also 123 on fan switch will not work ,only 4

My clutch only works a few inches from the floor should I bleed master cylinder and how I'ls that done on my 93 f350 5.8 manual transmission

P/n: s3000-s p1639
Fcc id:2aaq6tc05
I recently bought this truck the part has a constantly on green and red light even an hour after you're turned off the ignition and no keys are on.
On a recent long trip up I noticed at 55 60 65 70 75 and 80 one of the lights would start flashing.
I took a back to where I purchased it from as they said they would give me a new battery when I purchased the truck and I told them these lights were why a new battery was needed.
Well they said they fixed it and there fix was putting a black piece of electrical tape over the lights and shoving it back under the dash.
I found this when I took the fuse box cover off and there is a cluster of messy wires underneath. I found the wires connected to the I took the fuse out(red)that's related to this part and the lights are now off. There is a loosely attached ground (black)wire and a plug of which is not connected. The part/plug has 7 wires: green, yellow, white, orange, gray, red and black. The red wire is somehow connected to the plugin that is used for the scan tools.
My cruise control does not work. No lights come on when I press the on button.
I'm thinking these two might be related.
I'm not a technician just a lady that as a little girl loved to help Daddy work on the cars. So I know a little, just enough to know when I need to stop and let the repair man take over.
If on the right track can you advise where this part should be plugged into.


I've got a 1993 Ford F350 with a 5.8 manual transmission and I bought it nonrunning with a loud clicking sound which indicates starter to me so I replace the starter with rebuilt One it went on fine truck started up and ran but had a loud grinding knocking pinging noise coming from the bell housing area after starting at maybe two or three times and running it In idle for a few min I parked the truck came back the next day go to fire it up it turns over acting like basically it's out of gas never does start up eventually goes back to it's clicking sound now from what I've researched it sounding to me like the starter is not disengaging and took a lot of physical abuse during the moments I was running it now the people that bought it from had a button start on it by speaker wire running to the selinoid switch with basically what I would call it like a free turning ignition where you could put the key in there or not but if you put the key in there it would work and crank up So u could start it with either the button or key why at the time I was not sure but have should've asked more questions about that and why the start button was even needed. When I did come back the next day to crank the truck only the pushbutton would start the truck. the ignition switch itself that you put the KEY in would not work to crank the truck anymore so I'm kind of thinking that after putting these things together as far as symptoms and causes of symptoms I'm now thinking that somehow between that pushbutton start having speaker wire connecting it to the selinoid switch and the original ignition switch key cylinder itself still operational that the starter is not disengaging after start up and killing my new starter because it looked like from the space that I could see with a flashlight that the inside of the starter was not Intacked so would you say that I need to shim the starter check the flywheel for cracks check the flower bulbs for tightness all the above and would you say that I need to shim the starter check to flywheel for cracks check the flywheel bolts for tightness all the above or would you think it's possibly because there is the original ignition switch with key still operational and there is a secondary push button start switch with speaker wire running to selinoid operational as well that's causing the starter to not disengage all the way or at all? Also could it need to be shimmed?

The a/c unit in the truck comes on blowing hard and will not turn down or off until the vehicle is switched off.

I've changed the TPS sensor idle bypass valve fuel filter and pump spark plugs and wires. Oxygen sensor has been changed.

I think it might be the fuel pump or relay

So I got my oil changed was driving to town and pulled up to a stop light and it started to run really rough and the check engine light came on. So I checked the code and it said cam position sensor. So I took it to a ford dealer ship and they said it was a injector so the replaced it. but on the way home it did the same thing running really rough like it was going to die but wouldn't. Then I turned it off and turned back one it did it a little then smoothed out but you could still fell the small miss and the check engine came on. I had a guy come over and he looked at it and said try by changing the oil again and running cfoam through the fuel system and see if that fixes. I just wanted to know what you guys think

I'm on here just looking to make sure there's no stupid other reasons for what seems like a alternator failure but aren't b4 I go grab one and put it in. The reason I have a small concern is it is intermittently working and when it does work it works perfectly. Goes from flat line on dash voltage meter to above half way instantly. Saturday night when leaving gas station I noticed the voltage notification and voltage meter dropping. I killed everything I could but my headlights and hopped on the highway and kept the RPM's as high as I could and made it home no problem with a few intermittent charges out of the alternator. Last night (Mon.)I went out for a short drive honestly I had forgotten about it. Hardly made it back home headlights super dim and as I pulled into my apartment complex the alternator kicked back on headlights dash lights got instantly bright and the gauge was right back where it's supposed to be. So I sat in the truck for about 10 minutes warming up because I didn't have the heat on prior to that and wanted to see what it would end up doing also I was trying to scan for codes but I was not getting any. Then all the sudden it stopped working and Battery started dying immediately. I shut the truck off and new the battery would come back to life overnight. I just went for another short drive probably even shorter within minutes the Volt meter on dash was bottomed out. But once again right before I pulled in my apartment it went on and stayed on for about five minutes so I took advantage and let it charge the battery as soon as it just stopped working I shut the truck down. I saw someone say this is a $300 alternator ? Find that hard to believe but if that's true I definitely want to rule out any other possibilities. It's definitely not the wire that is telling the voltage meter what to say because it's very obvious it's reading correctly. I have a pretty good understanding of basic mechanics like this. But with these new hours you could tell I'm older. It could be some stupid Center or something telling it to kick off possibly I don't know? But yes if you do have a alternator problem. Your driving distance is going to be very limited before the truck dies. Like other said power down everything possible. Like just now I had strictly basic headlights on no driving lights and that was it. That will get you farther and possibly home or to a safe place then if you kept driving lights on radio on heater air conditioner every little part helps. So if anybody has had a similar situation replace the alternator just to find out it wasn't the alternator please respond. My battery is new and these are Monster batteries I know it's not that.

Trying to drive on interstate and car won't go over 50

Today, 3 weeks later Oil pressure gauge is at zero, and message center says "low oil pressure". Car seems to be running fine.

As I was driving on the Grand central Pkwy the car shut down on me and said failed engine safe mode I cut i T off waited 5min then cut it back on it came on as normal

What are some problems to look out for on a Ford F250 super duty 7.3 liter powerstroke

SO the truck was running,then it shut off. had it towed,then started up fpr 30 seconds and it shut off, no spark. any suggestions?

Car was running great, put in park, left running, when I went to move forward, nothing, Trans serviced 2 mo ago, fluid and filter, all looked good. If I rev the engine it will move about 2 feet. Any thoughts, suggestions??

already replaced the switch.. Same problem

Looking to switch smashed driver door

Where is the horn relay located and how is it replaced?

Just bought it and have no clue. They are a red and a green plastic toggle switches. On the drivers side, on the lower dash to the left of the steering wheel. Was thinking fog lights and rear lights for the bed, but nothing, could be just burned out or not working. Just wondering what they are for.

v an has 14 codesinthe pcmc1155cf wss circuit c1233 cf wss signal missing c1185 abs power relay output circuit failure c1198 left front c1194 left front c1254 right rear c1246 right rear

It is going to be lifted 3¨

One day, I got up to go to work, and suddenly my clutch would basically go in all the way with little to no pressure. At that point, I was unable to shift into any gears, so my vehicle is immobile at the moment. I am not car savvy, so I don't know what the problem could be. I've been told that maybe I need more fluid in my brake/clutch thing, but I don't know. I figured I'd ask for advice first. Thanks in advance.

Crank. It does not have milky oil and it has oil in it and also has water in the radiator and the roads War the battery is fine and so is the starter so what could be the problem please help

Car chugging at startup, acceleration and stalling at stops.,

Have already changed out the two larger blues, and replaced the fuse,...they still don't work, what else can it be?

after about a minute the noises go away. When starting the car again there is no sound. Despite the noises the car runs good but there is a smell inside the car and then it goes away