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when I switch to 4x4 the light stays on and will not switch back to 2 wheel drive
my '99 ford expedition doesn't respond to the clicker that came with it,so when i get out it won't lock
2 people worked on transmission. I purchased the car brand new from Ford dealership.
Or can I simply just drive it for a while afterwards and it will relearn everything?
I recently had somebody rebuild my transmission in my 99 Ford Expedition and since then I've had some trouble with it like it feels like it's not wanting to shift gears properly at times and my suspension light goes on and off
I changed my coil packs and 2 spark plugs and it is still missing. Also when removed spark plugs gas was on it? what does this mean and how can I fix it?
So I have several codes that pop up: P0340 P0303 p0344 p0430 P0420 and I have replaced the Camshaft sensor A, a new alternator was replaced. The truck runs fine then it starts to shake and it has a rough idle. So researching these codes, am I looking at replacing the Catalytic Converter both sides, or the Camshafts? How hard would it be to change myself?
I had 3 installed but the mechanic tells me there is a fourth needed
dash switch and switch out under the hood relays. Seems no power to anything when checked with a test light.
sometimes when cranking white smoke comes from exhaust. No reading from temp gauge when driving but smells like antifreeze. Not smoking during driving. Heater also barley working.
It I hold the brake and give it gas to the rpms go up to 2000 it doesn't seem to slip and shortly it shifts into second and didn't slip through the rest of the gears. Wondering if I need to replace the filter. They just did a flush through the fluid filler. Limited funds please help...
Started and left right away , didn't give it time to warm up drove about 40 miles and still didn't blow heat. Shut it off for about 15 min then drove back 40 miles still cold. All the fluids are full and it didn't overheat
heater is blowing warm air only fluids are good temp gauge good switch working ok. wondering to flush hoses 1st or replace thermostat or any ideas would be apprectiated
I need to replace the left front driver door regulator, the arm came loose and disconnected itself from the motor. The motor still works. Can I just replace the regulator without a new motor?
need cost for the engine and installation
If my car sits over night I will attempt to start but it takes sometimes 3 tries so during the day if it sits for more than an hour it does the same.
Can't get to one the bolts
The air is blowing hot on the passenger side in the rear of the car also. only the driver side is blowing cold air
truck surges and hesitates when I accelerate
first time this happened
My turn signal my dashboard and my parking lights keep blowing every time I replace my fuse everytime I turn my turn signal left it blows even if I just turned my parking lights on it blows somebody please help me I don't want to have to replace something that I don't have to...
All three stopped working the same time
truck has no prior problems call me soon F2 50 super duty with the V 10 triton 6.8 I replaced the alternator I replaced the starter I replaced the battery but now there is no power no Chuck go 20 miles an hour
Hi, I have an error code “B0001” on a 1996 Ford E-250 Econoline, 4.9L engine. How do I resolve this? Thank you!
Fuel gauge is not working and I'm trying to diagnose the problem
I'm having problems with my Ford Edge 2013 and I have just changed the cartelise and the car doesn't move as it's suppose to, and it make a sound when I put the gear shift to D or R
Daughter was driving and said that it started smoking from under hood and the smoke was coming out by the windshield. She was able to get it started and drove 3 blocks home, but car would only get up to 10 mph.
We changed the fuel pressure regulator as friend said fuel was not coming out of there when he checked it. Replaced it and then he said that the car was not getting fire so he told me to replace the ignition coil and I replaced it with a used one.
I was told that the car is now getting fuel and fire, but car still will not start. The check engine light was coming on intermittently, but it passed the Texas State Emission Inspection several weeks before this problem started. So I am not sure if this info matters, but believed I should include in this description as it might be relevant.
I have used an OBD II scanner on it 3 or 4 times and get no codes. We have tried everything and cannot figure out why car won't start. Help!
How do I fix error code C1211. My make and model is the 1996 Ford Econoline E-250, 4.9L engine.
after driving 20 minutes or so or if i let the casr idele for 5 to 10 minutes the idle gets VERY ROUGH and engine starts clatteing and wants to die.. If i give it gas it will rev up and straighten out until i come to a stop again . It will start all over... I was told that the 2 cam or kam sensors are bad. would this cause this problem? I read where just because a code says the sensors are bad that it could also be other things such as drive belt or timing ? also when i got the car it had a slight ticking in the motor it has rapidly turned into a pretty noisy tapping like a loose rodcker arm sound. I recently had an oik change thats when i was told the sensors were out, could these sensors have anything to do with the noisy tapping.. ? it is REALLY Bad when I first start the engine before the oil is fully circulating.. The engine revs high upon starting for about 10 seconds and then it idles down to normal.. engine light is on....also. recently the battery in the remote door lock and unlock went weak or dead and the car would not go into drive, a friend showed me the bypass lever . I replaced the batery and that solved the problem but i noticed right away that the brake pedal is extremely soft since that incident. someone told me to disconnect the ground cable for 15 minutes and the computer would reset and solve that problem. I havent done it yet . would that do anything beneficial?