I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 3.0 Liter engine. The engine has just been replaced tranny rebuilt 1.5 years ago, AC rebuilt last year. Now when I am driving in town with the traffic lights the ac starts blowing warm air and engine sounds like it is about to die.(running very rough) I can push the pedal to the floor and it sputters and coughs a little and eventually is will run normal, and the AC goes back to blowing cold air. If I am on the freeway it runs like a charm as long as I keep the RPMs higher than 3500. but if I start slowing it blows warm air unless I get the RPMs back up. Does anyone know what is wrong with my car?

Where is my VSS located I took the wrong one out of the driver side.

It has been very crazy. Low level warning came on filled res. tan. Two days later same thing. Took to shop, did pressure test. Replaced tank cap. Two days later getting on hwy temp gauge shot up to h and check engine temp came on. Filled tank, drove 2 and half hours on hwy. No problem. Stop get gas check tank all is good. Get back on hwy same thing fill tank drive back home no problem. Take to shop run tests nothing found. Three days later go on 45 minute drive on hwy yep same thing. Fill tank. Drive about 5 minutes does it again. Fill tank, nothing happens for three days. Decide to take it a Ford service shop. A 30 minute drive at 55 to 60 mph. Had to fill tank three times I got low level warning and check engine temp with gauge going to h. Ford runs pressure test twice, checks exhaust checks inside floor mats.checks everything Can't find a leak. What is going on, any help would greatly appreciated.

Had dealer replace the starter and stabilizer links in October. Car had 51k miles. Just has left stabilizer link replaced ( it came apart) and starter replaced (it quit). Not happy. Now water pump is leaking (they want $1800 to replace it). Car has 81k miles now

I replaced my battery it tries to start but wont engage

would not start- got out of car -h2o forming puddle under car- checked h2o resevoir - still h20 present -but all eventually leaked out-trailered car home- engine oil leaking also- appears all over engine-could be tranny fluid or? what happened? charged battery car started removed cable car died-figure alternator but why all leaks?Help Please!

it is leaking from the right rear side

And inside the truck the radio and mileage light goes off

I have had three power streering pumps put on in the last month, two from Advanced auto parts, most recent one from NAPA, all continue to leak. Is it OK if they are putting transmission fluid in reservoir when replacements installed??

sounds like the seat belt isn't attach that kind of sound and wont stop doesnt matter if its a long trip or short trip

has 145000 miles ,
things to watch out for ?

my 96 model was still working fine when i traded in 2014 for my 09. and it just quits this spring no warning it will only blow heat.

It wants to slip into neutral,it won't shift

Truck starts fine. After start, you can feel truck hiccuping slightly. When accelerating from abt 10-20 mph, truck revs rpm up to 3 and doesn't come down. Can't really accelerate past 30-40mph. When turning left or right with steering wheel, car hiccups and jumps and slows down and will eventually cut off.

We just replaced our fuel pump last Tuesday and now this week the cars is acting up again. When we start it up it might not start right away or it will and then when we try to leave it starts chugging like its going to die again and now our check engine light is on and hasn't shut back off

It will not change gears so i have to avoid steap hills.

My ac isn't blowing cold air how can I check to see if my clutch is engaging

When I shut off the air and slow down, the roar stops and air works. This is only at lower rpm. Last time the roar began, the temp gage peaked, but the engine was not hot. When I restarted, the roar stopped and the gage went to normal. Can anyone give me some advice as to where to begin?

Turns their is no problem we change shocks and struts and it still has the same problem all the bushing look good, we rotated the tires. Do you have any ideas.

I have a dilemma that I cannot figure out, hope anyone can en-light me. My expedition has 250k miles on it and running very strong. It need some TLC, so I started with the fuel pump replaced with model Delphi (leveling sender was no good), replaced fuel filter model motor-craft, got all fuel injectors tested and refurbished (all tested and pass only 3 were dripping) replace spark plugs and wires by motorcraft and auto-light platinum. Now my engine is running rough. at idle is hardly noticeable but at drive man its stumbling and want to shut off. No check engine light has come on. I tested the fuel pump pressure its at 35psi, when i disconnect the regulator pressure increases to 45psi, so fuel pump & regulator are good. Checked the spark on the wires and is good. pulled out the spark plug and it is wet with fuel. I checked the compression on the piston and its at 140, its good. when in drive, it would give out a rotten egg smell. I even put back the old spark plugs back and still misfire. Has any one seen this issues on these vehicles? my next step is to use the old spark plug wires and move around the injectors. never had a problem before when changing the spark plugs.

If u hold pedal to floor it stalls and pops and cracks till it dies

What connects it the interior?