In reverse gear, "check park aid" message appears.

Vans not getting no fire I have had the coil checked it's good, I had electric module checked it's good only other possibility is the pickup coil please help I need my van for work!

I have a 2002 Taurus SE. I started having problem with the Theft light coming on for a second and then off; which kills the speed for that moment. I have made a new key and programmed at Ford, changed thenTranceiver in the steering column. checked all fuses, checked all relays, had Autozone check my battery, starter and alternator...no issues. All fluid levels are good including transmission. Recently changed the belt, fuel pump and all the relays associated with the fuel line. Any idea what could be going on? The problems happens random... city, highway, etc... rough road or smooth road... HELP...

car is at a car lot . Price is low , not sure why but im thinking because of milage. i hear ford is not a good car put im in need of one. VIN # 1FAFP251X5G202769
Engine 3.0L V6 EFI

Also under the left front passenger side where you put your feet at is like Condensating and it's leaking water from the evaporator housing. Does any one know anything please!

starts and motor runs,check gauged light came on motor rattled and stoped

Tried new ignition switch. No change. What's wrong?

the truck ran and steam was coming out the driver side of the engine. When water was poured in it it went right out the bottom of the engine.

I changed the alternator and the battery in my 2001 expedition and I still can't get it to crank or have any power to it!

Power seat will move backwards when I hit a bump; occurs occassionally, but is very dangerous as I try to reach brake while seat is moving back. Has anyone experienced this

I was pulling out of my drive way this morning and started down the road. When my car jerked and shut off. All lights come on. So I the switch off and tried to crank it. All the lights come on on the dash but will not crank. Does not even make a sound when trying to crank it.

It only happens when i accelerate and it don shifts. Alot of jumping. Not sure if its the engine or transmission

Rides a little "bouncy", but inspection indicates springs / shocks are adequate.

I bought A 2008 F350 at a buy here pay here with 190,000 miles on it . It's only been about 10 days I have no warranty so I have to go to my own mechanic but after a few days I started getting this fan noise like a air blower under the driver side of the hood but it's not constant
, it's only if I'm stuck at a red light for too long and start to go again or sitting in park and then I'll go again but it stopped after a few seconds but even if I put the pedal to the floor the truck doesn't go like it should I tell that fan sound goes away. Well this morning I went to the gas station came back out and let my truck on in my temperature was almost in the red and I just had all my fluids checked about five days ago and everything was good. Any thoughts and I'm praying it's something cheap because I don't have a lot of money and my mechanic doesn't have an opening until the 17th

crank up the truck in o/d light comes on then it will ill up for a min

The tank is not coming out because of the rear axle is there a trick to it or what?

My car won't but after I ran out of gas

What could be wrong

I replaced new battery and new alternator 2001 E 150 seemed to work for three four days, now brand new battery dead again. not getting charge. jumped battery and could watch battery drain when jumper cables removed. confirmed with volt meter getting less than twelve even when running and drops to eight before dying. Please help

Un-commanded TCC apply on the 1-2 shift causing perception of hesitation and/or lack of power during shift until you reach 15 to 20 miles an hour. Then it takes off!

Had a puddle of oil under th front end of truck when I came to a stop and the mechanic said a sensor it just happen on Sunday took it in the next day

I can't find the drain plug on the radiator, you you please let me know where it is?

I found a listing for a 1994 cobra at a good price, the only problem is it is missing the engine block, the owner has a new ported upper and lower intake and separately has
K&N filter
Front sway bar 1 3/8
70mm throttle body
30# fuel injectors new in box
Shorty headers
G-load brace
Lower rear control arms
H.D adj rear sway bar
Upper adj. rear control arms
Sub frame connectors
Drive shaft loop
Rear end gears 3.55
Fuel pump in tank 155gph
180 temp thermostat
Pro 5.0 shifter
T-Rex 180gph external fuel pump
Racing wheel stubs
Interior show room new
Ported new lower intake and new cobra upper intake
New in box upper engine wiring harness.
New in box starter relay
Tremec transmission
Original new in box cobra shifter knob.
New in box throttle assemble and adj. idle speed spacer
Rear wheel slicks
I was wondering the time and money that would go into this to determine if it was worthwhile

car runs fine from 0 to 35 mi.per hr on long trip on the frway. at 60 to 70 mi.per hr running for 2hrs it over heats and i have to stop

I have a set of 07 ford freestyle wheels that I want to put on my 98 2wd ranger but the hub center of my wheels are bigger so my question is will wheel spacers fix this issue

NCAL getting quotes over $1100!!

For real?

The lock mechanism for the tailgate itself works, but the rear glass lock doesn't. Also the courtesy light when opening the door stopped working at the same time as when the rear glass stopped locking.

I change the transmission fluid and still having the same problem but when I press the gas lightly then it goes in reverse what could it be I hope it's not serious

Make: Ford

Model: Mustang

Engine: 3.7

Year: 2014

Error codes: P2122

Knowledge level: I know little about cars

Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.

Make: Ford

Model: F-150

Engine: P1000

Year: 2006

Error codes: 4.6L

Knowledge level: I know little about cars

Help needed: Please help me find out what is going on and how to fix it.