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I just replaced the ignition control module and coil. I drove it to different locations for half a day and it ran fine and then it decided to not start again. I tried starting it again today, but it just continues to sound like it wants to start, but does not. Funds are low so I want to try and pinpoint the problem on my own instead of having to put out a ton of money to a mechanic. If anyone can help me, I would greatly appreciate it.
Is it possible to loosen the clutch?
MY TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN WITH MY FOB OR INSIDE RELEASE BUTTON . IT WILL OPEN WITH THE INSIDE RELEASE CORD BUT I CAN NOT OPEN IT ANY OTHER WAY.
AC randomly pops on. When you cut it off sometimes it comes right back on.
When the car is unlocked with the key fob and only when the rear passenger door is opened, the car starts.
getting error code P1715
4F50N (AX4N) TRANSMISSION
LX model. Running fine (maybe 100 miles) after replacing Spark plugs, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, & Filters.; ehen suddenly would "Chk Eng. Lt." would come on after engine would warm up, about 5 miles driving. Seemed to be loose battery cables (repair shop error), Tightened & started up- - no problem., 3 or 4 times, except most recent issue. Engine would die out after 5 - 10 miles of city driving.
2010 ford taurus limited, rear sunshade locked in up position. no response when hitting the button.
Looking for fuel filter location
Only upon acceleration one side lightly let off the gas it will go away if I push down on the pedal in the hype it's comes back I thought it was the belts replaced it that was not it noticed now it's coming from passenger side valve cover help
The rattling stop when very light pressure is applied to break pedal. Trouble started after a Ford oil change, which included car inspection (fluid levels,brakes,tires,tire rotation). Rattle was minor at first, but has really gotten louder. When it first started Ford dealer took a quick look on my next oil change and said they could find nothing. If I made an appointment, they could check it further. I didn't have time.
Dashboard. Light looks like a wrench
So I recently got towed..he asked if it was AWD..I specifically told him it was..he put it on dolly with 2 front tires lifted..we drove a few miles and heard loud noise and I turned around and it was smoking..I guess from my bck tires? He then got out and put my my truck on 4 wheels lifted. I thought nothing of it even though but one day my od light kept blinking entire day..it stopped next day..then I notice I can't drive over 55mph on freeway without shaking. Now it can't drive on freeway at all ..when I drove 40mph on freeway it kept going from side to side..I can't drive past 25- 30mph now..I just parked it in driveway before it gets any worse..I tried to take to shop..spent over $700 in total had tie rods replacement but car still the same. Could that tow damaged my rear end ? I don't know what's exactly wrong with my truck.
I have not googled this yet, and I have not checked any fuses or if the instrument lights/dash lights work or not.
code 0340 camshaft position sensor bank 1 changed sensor shut light off came back after two days
Does this only when cool fan is plugged in. If unplugged, no issues.did this when after market fan clutch was installed.
My van is a POS but I'm willing to make minor fixes. I think I need a new egr valve(I'll use a different post for that). But the last couple days I found my radio doors n windows work after hrs of being home. Key in off position and out of vehicle. I'm assuming something shorted out, fuse maybe but have no idea. Also key point- the system that keeps van on for the 10 min after u turn key off hasn't worked in a year. I have bad rear hatch sensors so when I turn key off it automatically shuts down- well it use to. Drained battery once not realizing the radio was playing for a couple days and not being started.
Side rubber accordion seals come off their track when you open / close the roof.
Why two batteries?
I have 1997 F-250 4 wd, 8 cyl, dual gas taknks with a 351 Winsor motor that continues to stall or not start at all. This happens quite often and has to sit for several, if not more, hours and has to be cool outside in order for it to start again. It acts as though it is out of gas, but it is not
it is located behind the grill on the bottom of the hood latch bracket, it slides over a stud and secured with a nut, a 2 wire plug hooks up to it.
The vehicle will not shift out of park in to drive with or without the motor running
Car ran after replacement once at idle but no throttle. Now it won't do that. The wrench icon is on.when it cranks the check engine stays on. It cranks to a point for 2-3 seconds and sounds like it might start and the starter disengages.
My air will come on, but it will not cool.
CAR WILL CRANK, INSTRUMENT PANEL LOSES POWER, NO GUAGES, NO DOOR LOCKS ETC
i want to fix the problem so I want to can it be fixed and if so how much will it probably cost me to have fixed?
Why wouldn't car drive with over heating light on? Is engine ruined? Was going to just drive very short distance.
I really cant aford to replace cat what else could it be to pass smog test and reset check eng. Light
I was wanting to know if it could be something besides cay