25,958
questions

It already has a new master cylinder and the brakes were just bled

The brakes are having to be pressed hard and feel spongy. Has to be pressed nearly to the floor. Took to Big O and they did a Brake Fluid Exchange. Brake Fluid Flush Service included Kit and brake fluid. Now there is a leak around the (right side mainly) of the shifter. Looks clear similar to white or clear oil. Breaks still have to be pressed hard. Big O says brakes are fine but they are not. Should not have to press on the brakes this way. Please help

and the 4 wheel drive will not disengage automatically have replace the hub assemble on passenger front cause that seems to be where the vibration is coming from and the bearings were replaced had a new transfer case module and motor also installed

EGR causing 4.2L Engine to shake ??
2000 E150 4.2L V6 (146,000 Miles)

The EGR system starts working when coolant sensor says 115 F then at 1950 to 2050 RPM engine starts to shake like a front loader washing machine!!! In Drive the most in Park a little.

Changed the EGR valve, DPFE sensor and EGR control solenoid. Checked voltage to DPFE bottom wire (Ref) 5 vdc but top wire (Sig) fluctuates between 1.05 vdc and 1.8 vdc with different throttle positions. (I thought its suppose to be between 5.0 vdc and 6.0 vdc but that would be impossible with a 5 vdc supply) If I disconnect the vacuum hose to egr valve and plug it or if the coolant temp is below 115 F the van doesn't shake.

We checked the EGR tube and vacuum hoses all ok. Secondary butterfly valves open fine at correct RPM. New Spark plugs, wires and coil. Had our mechanic run scanner and tests, not a thing showing. When the DPFE sensor was changed on first startup it threw a 1401 code. But never did it again. No air leaks on egr valve gasket, checked all wiring connections, checked everything but vacuum reserve tank.

WE HAVE NO CLUE WHATS WRONG. runs GREAT at Idle. with and without EGR connected. Need help. Thanks

had the leak. then one point started the car and a loud pop from under the hood occurred resulting in a loud knocking noise coming from inside engine sounds like. like if there is a exhaust leak.

Tested battery -ok
. atenator -ok however seem like regulator not working but were is it. Inside alt? Do I have to replace whole alternator, rather should I?

And if,,, how about tention pulley or serpentine belt....27k miles 4yrsold

Is there a way to test the blend door actuater to verify that it's working properly

Grinds with clutch all the way in if the engine is spinning past 2100 fps

Just had oil changed yesterday at the dealer and they didn't mention any leaks. It started this morning when heating up my car. The smells goes away and comes back when idiling.

With the SRS system

First is was the passenger door latch that broke, then the driverside. I have bee patiently waiting to hear about a recall on these doors. We're using bungy cords to keep them closed. Safety issue. The part is over $100. The entire door has to come apart & cost more to fix it.

Passenger is not used very often. Is this a possible recall type issue?

Battery has full charge. With key in the on position all gauges work, radio works, windows work. When you turn the key to try and start it everything turns off and nothing happens. It does not even try to turn over. No clicking just silent. When you release the key and it goes back to the on position everything turns back on. The information panel on the dash states a fuel computer data error and a charging system data error. I do not know where to start looking. Any help would be appreciated.

System normal until placed in reverse, then "off" warning illuminates and stays on until ignition is turned off. I've seen elsewhere that I should listen for "ticking at the sensor, but won't they be de-energized if the switch indicates that the system is off?

Sounds to me like its in the passenger side.

What about the crankshaft sensor?

My son thinks there are just one.

Initially the truck started to make a weird noise, then while hauling, it started to overheat. The following day, I began to feel loss of power immediately followed by thick white smoke blowing out my exhaust/tailpipe. Oil was changed less than 45 days from date of incident, there is no water in my oil and no oil in my water. My vehicle was one that had the recall done on it, but since it has been done already, it is not eligible again.

Hello, does anyone know how to correct an error code P2006? It's on a 2010 Ford Explorer Sport Trac, with a 4.6L engine. Thank you!

Happens about 4-5 times within a hour time

I have true duel exhaust, msd coil pack and cold air intake and throttle body spacer and also have SCT x4 tuner

the check engine light just came on tonight

no gas gauge, odometer, speedometer, nothing

Seems like the tumbler is going?

This reaction occurs after reaching 45mph-60mph every 5-10 minutes. Other than that, the car shifts very smoothly.


when driving whistling comes on
when acceleratr pedal is released,
sounds go away

Car is realky loud (sounds like a race car or a motorcycle) and it smells like exhaust inside and out of the car. Should I just replace the muffler or do I need to replace other gaskets/parts as well? Thankd

Since I changed the engine and do you have a phone number I can call you at

My truck starts shaking once in awhile I lose power my engine light comes on. In order to stop it I have to stop and turn off my truck and turn it back on and continue on. It comes and goes

The power/signal lights and puddle lights all work. These mirrors also are heated. My climate control does not have the rear window defrost button which I am told powers the rear window defrost as well as the heat to the mirrors. How and what would I have to do to get power to heat the mirrors. How do I know if by changing the climate control to on that has the rear defrost button if it will power the mirror heat or not?