Dodge Ram 3500 QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Pulled truck in driveway it was fine. Went to leave with it and it won't roll over. Lights come on inside, bell goes off that says key is in it. Took starter off had it checked, that's ok.
Friend borrowed truck put in gas. Have changed injector pump and computer, checked injectors. Will turn over but won't start. Will start with starter fluid and dies when starter fluid is gone.
6.7lt EGR permanent defect. Chrysler never acknowledged the problem
But when I shift into 3rd gear there is a loud knock or bang. Not sure if it's the transmission or the transfer case. Please help if you know what the problem.
I hope it's a easy fix. It shifts in all 5 gears but when I am driving and try to shift into 3rd gear it slams hard.
Cleaned the plug and now it won't shift check engine light on
It's always doing it now.all I did was clean the connects to tranny been in salt air over winter
Throttle is sometimes there n sometimes not push cancel on cruise it goes back to normal light still on
i changed my fuel filter and it wouldn't start again..i bump primed it 6-10 times and no go...
I was at an intersection and it completelety shut off. We checked the fuel filter and fuel pump. This is the first time.
when approaching a stop where i have need to coast for a longer distance with foot on the brake i often lose power braking before i come to a full stop. when this happens it is very similar to a vacuum assist brake system that has lost all vacuum boost. i have replaced the power steering pump and the hydra-boost twice with no affect. when this happens the power steering is not affected.
I had a Chrysler town country van here , I used the alternator off of it to put in my truck that's a 97 ram 3500 cummings. Now it shows to be charging but does not , when I turn the truck off it is completely dead. So I wired it in without the VOLTAGE REG(RV) and it shows to not be charging on gauge untill I turn the key Off and the it goes up to 14 but the truck doesnt shut off I have to uplug the fuel solenoid valve get It to shut off. But know the fuel pump thats wird to the ignition cicuit stays on
I have already replaced fuel pump, fuel injector and the ECU
It's a 97 cummins turbo diesel single cab flatbed dually
will speed up when gas pedal is punched.
and tbi but problem still exists what else could it be
1-2x/Week ..... car will cut-out or not accelrate ... almost like a sensor isn't recognizing the foot peddle is moving/depressed. Car/engine just idles ... shifting is fine during the "idle" .... normally with a shut-off and restart of engine everything is fine .... if car is rolling when occurs then pumping the peddle rapidly for 5-10 seconds causes the accelerator to re-engage. Thoughts?
It sat for 2 months till I finally got it done. Put new batteries in it. Used Interstate batteries. Can't believe it would loose its prime.
well im taking two diffs out and putting one back in
NO CEL NO HISTORY TROUBLE CODES
New cap and rotor. Checked spark plug wires.
I tried putting carbon blanket under the wiper louvers. Is there any other place air comes in? Newer models have a cabin filter. I wish 1998 did.
My truck is a 1999 5 speed 24V 4x4 dually. I do not have any problems starting and no problems with it dying. I have replaced the injector pump, lift pump, ECM, TPS, fuel relay, and fuel and air filters all within the last 16 months. The injector pump was replaced again in February 2015 due to an o-ring blowing out. These problems started after that pump replacement.
Truck runs fine while it is cold, but once it starts to warm up it seems like it falls on its face for a second while I am driving. When it first started happening it would do it when I tried to exceed 60 mph. I tried to get it to act up while I was parked and it did not for quite a few days and then finally it started acting up while I was parked and throttling up to about 2100 rpm. Now it does it at 50 mph and about 1100 to 1300 rpm.
The engine is not dying, it simply drops a couple of hundred rpm for a second and then picks itself back up. It is starting to do it more often the warmer the engine gets.
I have had the truck to two shops, both guys are certified cummins mechanics with over 20 years in the business, and I have had it to one dealership. The two independent guys say they can not figure it out and it drives them crazy.
The dealership called about 3:30 on a Thursday afternoon asking for patience while they figure it out, "we don't want to just throw parts at it, we want to get it right". About 8:30 Friday morning they call back and say "we can replace the injector pump and ECM and see if that fixes it, using Chrysler parts that will be $6,400.00".
The truck has been pretty much down since February, I would like to get it on the road again, any ideas? The truck only has 187,xxx miles on it.
I changed the coil plug wires distributor cap rotator bug. But I'm not getting no fire. It turns over but nothing. What can I do. I also don't know what mark to line the cam shaft up with to put it in time. It has 4 marks. What one is the right one and then what position do I put the distributor in to put it in time.
Blower control knob was replaced at dealer still only works on low or high. Don't know what else to check
Dealer said that's how it's suppose to work but I also have a 2000 van and that one has 5 different blower speeds.