2,605
questions

Show breakdown of blower motor control

Cabin filter needs to be changed

I replaced my hood latch cable and was very cautious pulling my guide wire back when I pulled the old 1 out and the new 1 threw. Set the hood and went to turn my truck around to do my rear bearings and had nothing. With the key turned I can shift to everything without pushing the brake. I can move my seats and turn on lights and cargos come on with dome lights. I have no power to anything that requires it with the key in the acc run or start position. It doesn't even try to start or anything. I drove it half a mile to work on it and it started up just fine with no problems. I checked what I could but what could cause this and where do I need to look if it is a wiring problem?

I have replaced fuel pump, idle air control valve and tps due to the issue. I'm still getting the crank but no start? I check for sparks and I do have sparks. Possible solution or more test I should do? I try connecting scan tool it seem like obd wasn't connect to the scan tool too

then ran for another few miles than died again. My boyfriend and my boss have replaced almost everything they can think of. and the truck still wont start. HELP PLEASE!!

Truck is just sitting. parked last night. went to leave this am would not crank over, battery is good lights warning bells,dash panel comes alive. will not crank. no grinding, or clicking just a small snap when you try to engage the starter, no burn smells ect.

trying to change head gasket what do i do?

Ok so, i have a 1997 Dodge Ram 4x4 with a 5.2L V8 automatic. And i just replaced the transmission, but i haven't been able to start it or drive it yet because for some reason when i go to shift it from (P)park to (R)reverse and then (N)nutural to (D)drive then (2nd) to (1st) it shifts WAY to easy. And doesn't feel like its really shifting at all. But all of the linkages are hooked up tho. And then i go to put it all the way back up to (P)park it makes a clunking sound each time that i shift it from (1st) back up to (P)park. And it sounds like the clunking noise is on the firewall like by the steering column. Does anybody have any idea what it could be? Please let me know. Thank you!

2002 Dodge RAM 1500. 4.7L

Never had any problems with the AC before I took it in to have the water pump replaced. When I got a mile down the road I started hearing a squeal. Took it back they said that happens when you replace a water pump.

The turn signals work on dash but won't work outside. I replaced the brake light switch and the bulbs but that still didn't work. Does anyone know anything else that I can do to fix this problem?

Problem just started comes up no bus 4 code have replaced fuel pump still does not work I don't know what's going on with it I've checked all my fuses and relays are all goodPlease help me vehicle to run

Run rough it ran fine the night before and when I got up to go to work the next day it run like the timing was off

I can turn to the right . but not to the left

can't change flow direction for heat or a/c. doesn't matter where I set dial,always comes out the same spot

Failure of engine. Dealership said 2002-2003 Ram 1500's had bad engineering design on that year model. They don't / won't even make them due to so many flaws on their part

just had the gasket and filter changed

And can you bypass hydraulic heater booster any help would be appreciated

I know that it's not wise, but when i do a burnout, breakstand whatever you want to call it. The back tires will break lose or seem to break loose. When you hold the gas and let the tires gain momentum and build up smoke the tires will spin, both seem to do so. About five seconds into it the whole back end will begin to kick out and scoot over about five feet or so. It will then countinue to spin the wheels and when you let off the brakes to do the burnout and get going to leave your mark only the driver side will leave a tire mark while the passenger side will have no mark. I've heard of a few other guys that have the same problem I've even seen it in some challengers and chargers. So i'm wondering if it's an axle problem or if it's my tires or if it's my brakes or what. Again I know it's not smart to do burnouts.

It's not all the time. Only at idle acts like it's running out of gas. Reving it up helps sometimes stops it

the truck was drove and stopped at store then got back into it and it would turn over but not start, I replaced cam,crank sensor, throttle sensor. had alternator checked, starter checked, its getting fuel and fire. but will try to crank after battery has been off a day or so but not completely fire up.

Sometimes a clunky sound coming from between engine and transmission

I had water pump replaced, now my truck wont start. So I then had cam shaft, crank shaft, and ign. coil replaced thereafter, still won't start. cleaned the rotor and bought new spark plugs. can u help me please

I was in my pick up yesterday at the store started it up several my gauges on my Dash came on how to turn on air conditioning and some other things in my pickup they did not work I turn pickup off then restarted it everything went back to normal light on dash went out and everything what could be the problem and what can I do? Thanks

Just rebuilt topend

Overturning over but wontstart

transmission casing (extension housing) bolts need to be tightened. What type of tool should be used to tighten them?

i have a 2007 dodge ram 1500 2wd. i was driving home last thursday morning and had my check enging light come on. I went and had the code read on it and it said that i had a misfire on cylinder #5. I looked at the cylinder and the coil pack was cracked on the opposite side of the wiring connection. I pulled the pack and replaced it and it ran fine for about 15 miles and once again it died on me and would not start. I didn't think to check the coil pack again because I wasn't expecting it to be broken again so I looked online to see what could be causing the truck not to start. I replaced the cam shaft sensor, the crank shaft sensor and the EGR valve. none of that worked so I reset the battery and it started long enough for me to get to autozone to have another code read and once again it showed that I had a misfire on cylinder 5 and I looked at it and it had about a half inch hole in it. I replaced it along with new plugs and it seemed to be running fine for about 20 minutes and my check engine light once again came on. I was not thinking anything of it because it had been coming on for a loose gas cap code. I drove it for about 5 miles and as I was puling back into the drive way it shut off once again started running rough and died and will not start again so I raised the hood and once again the coil pack it busted. Please help!

blow out hot air at floor vents. Also the recirculation fan does not work anymore, Any ideals what to check?

I can see oil is leaking from the part where the drive shaft connects to the rear end. Does that mean I need a new rear end or is there a gasket that goes in there or what? It's not leaking from the back of the differential but right where the u joint part seems to connect to the rear end.