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Dodge Ram 1500 Questions

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2,716
questions

Truck sputters after 3k rpm, PCode 016 is on, as is the camshaft code. The crankshaft code was on too, but we replaced that yesterday, and found that the sensor itself was actually broken in half. Took about 2 hours to get it out of the hole. New one is in, but still sputtering at 3k RPM. Will replace camshaft sensor if I can find it.

everytime i put in reverse

Bed of truck has rusted out bad and the 4 wheel drive has guitar working

then after a bit it will return to normal. only happens after having driven some distance. i do get a code that states speed sensor.

On freeway at 65-70 mph it drives and downshifts fine! Did anybody else have this problem?

id like to know how to wire a new 02 sensor plug into the harness because someone hardwired a cheapo o2 sensor straight to the harness and i would like to wire a factory plug back into the wiring harness with a factory 02 sensor

Truck will not turn over and does not get power to the starter relay, dash lights and Windows do work, no blown fuses

What is the fuel range on the 96 ram 1500 v6 manual with the 26 gallon and or the 35 gallon gas tank

Im wondering what size gas tank is in a 96 dodge ram 1500 standard cab long bed

only once the engine sounded like a rough idle for a few seconds,then went to high rpms for two seconds then went to normal idle. I got in the cab and reved it to a high rpms for a couple seconds, for three times and let it idle. It idled alright after that. The next morning I started it and let it idle for five minutes, and it idled alright.
Don't know what happened, plugs, injectors, PCV, timing or what.

truck sputtered today at a stop light when taking off, and when I put some gas to it , it has a clicking sound like a bad u joint.

Truck runs and drives great all fuses and relays are good directional headlights brake lights instrument cluster just stop working on day what can the problem be

Truck runs and drives great. Directional headlights brake lights interior lights instrument cluster and electric locks do not work fuses and relays are all good what can be the problem

My check engine light came on and I thought it was my condenser fan. My condenser was in fact not working. I have since remedied that issue and my check engine light is still on.

labor time and amount?

Ask of the truck.its late and need lights

the fuses are good and the bulbs are good .do you think it is the totally intergrated power modual?

have cold air just not moving with dials when i change them

My heat works great it blows devils breath, but when I change the dial to make it come out of the defrost vents or the floor vents it stays coming out of the front vents

check engine light came on after getting gas. truck drives fine- will tightening the cap eliminate the light ?

no problems before, ran fine yesterday

Does it need to be pressed out

It only has to do it just one time the RPM's drop below 500 for the oil pressure gauge to go down enough to kick check engine light on. As long as I keep the rpms at 600 or above within 60-70 miles it will turn off but as soon as it drops to 500 or less oil pressure gauge goes back down enough to kick the light on.. once I figure what's tripping my idle/rpms won't have to worry about the oil pressure gauge, they run together. I'm thinking something with my MDS, it's kicking on constantly even from dead stop I'll start and it's on an can shift all gears that way give little gas bring it out but goes back in to it. Turn on my tow/haul runs perfect O/D off runs perfect. Only code I've gotten is P0524 but my oil is fine as well as all other fluids. What's making idle mess with my rpms is going to mess with my oil pressure gauge it runs together. Took throttle body of an cleaned really good.. can't remove idle sensor as it is built in to the throttle body.. changed plugs.. all injectors are clicking.. basically anything that could be taken off an cleaned has been done.. only thing that hasn't been replaced that might have anything to do with this issue would be a new throttle body but hoping it's not that so doing all things within low cost if anything before doing the money coster.. but at least all minor or small things concerning this issue will already be taken care of to rule out it's possibility..

Around 2 weeks ago I broke my water pump, got it to my house though before it overheated, it cooled down and I look to see what it was, notice it def was the water pump ( all liquid from it was gone within 5-10 minutes) Knowing that I was like, well okay maybe if I replaced the water pump, got my dad to help me out and everything. Anyways yesterday tried to start it up after replacing the water pump, and nothing happened, it sounded very light when cranking. Very hard to explain, but it sounded like it wasn't making any loud noise like it would sound when u crank a regular truck up. Anyways tried charging the battery just in case and still won't crank, is the moter shocked because of the over heating. Any ideas? Let me know, thanks :)

While driving I will loose all power in the truck. I shift into neutral and start it right back up. I have had it to the dealership many times for this , and I am done with them.They tell me now it needs new coil paks. I know that's not the problem.

check engine light on. code reader said misfire of cylinder 6 so replaced plug, wire, and cap. reset and light came back on. now engine shuts off after warm-up.

I've replaced all of my spark plugs and coil packs but I still have a misfire on 1,3,5,2,4 I'm basically running on 3 cylinders, what could be causing this, and What would be my next step for fixing the constant misfire?

What is the part the thermostat housing mounts to the threads are striped on mine from the previous owner

cant figure out why when you switch to dim light want come on

Do I have to clamp the springs down...o was told I do and I was told I dont