Dodge Neon Questions

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The timing belt is new

I have had an ongoing problem with the engine cutting out, losing spark and just plain dying while driving! There was an oil leak which dripped onto the engine wire harness. It comes wrapped in some kind of fabric tape which wicked the oil right up into the junction box next to the fuse block under the hood and from there also into the PCM. Replaced that twice. Mechanic says wiring harness needs to be replaced. Reasonable charge (labor only) for a non-shop affiliated mechanic to do this? At this point there are no codes except for 12 (battery was disconnected last 50 starts) and 55 (end test).
Problem occurs every time it is driven for the last year and a half, replaced Cam sensor, Crank sensor, fuel pump, PCM (2x) cat & 1 o2 sensor, bypassed one fuse in passenger compartment, purge can sol replaced, full clean on throttle body, IAC motor & solenoid, and that kajigger that returns the burnt fuel to somewhere. It will also stop when idling. Not stall, just plain STOP.

I keep refilling the coolant but after about a week it drops to nothing and the gage goes up to High, It last only about a week, I've had and engine overhaul already 3 months ago.

Who knows anything about this

I already replaced the battery

It will idle and dies after 10-15 min cause it's heated up... If I try to drive it doesn't even last 2 miles before it runs rough and dies

I have to pop start it or charge it if i pop start it i could turn it off and on fine for about 10 times then it dont start and my car only clicks as if starter aint working if i charge it and turn it on then off it wont turn back on unless i charge it again i already replaced starter and tested alternator my dash reads fuse but i tested all my fuses need help please

The timing chain was replaced 10 months ago problem seems to be after the battery took a dump. Has new batt now but runs like crap!

how to fix . My cam sensor keeps going out and have had to replace twice already and about to replace for the third time.

and didn't want to turn the wheel, My mechanic said it was the Drive Belt tensioner that burned the belt and broke off, he said the belts were like 19.00 and 19.50 but the Tensioner replacement part was $470.00 I believe this is way to much, not sure can you tell me what is the estimate for this belt tensioner part..... Just paid 2 months ago 1800.00 due to timing belt and Valves bent....It still turns on and all electrical works I didn't drive it pass when it happened just towed it...

timing belt and valves

I would like to know what I should be checking in order to fix the p0172 code bank 1 sensor 1 system lean on my 99 dodge neon, it idles kinda rough and sometimes shuts off coming to a stop

Why is my car shaking when sitting in drive? Why does my oil light come on when I stop my car?

Car will idle ok but bogs down on acceleration

no current get to the coil

How can I tell if my 2001 dodge neon has a standard 4cyl. 2.0l SFI SOHC or a 4cyl. 2.0l SFI SOHC HO. So I need to know if the engine is a high output or not. How can I tell?

I have a 2000 dodge neon with a few bad injectors but I also have a 2001 neon that's been wrecked but the injectors seem to look fine. Will there be any harm in swapping the bad injectors out with the good injectors from the wrecked neon

Is there a way to tell if you need a fuel filter or a fuel pump by listening to the clicks?

The estimate given by Tuffy where I usually take my car for oil changes/other repairs, is $625.00 which includes $85.00 diagnostic fee. Is this a fair price? I am retired and live on a fixed income so, price is an issue. My car has only 69,000 actual miles and I keep normal maintenance up-to-date. The problem just started. My car wouldn't accelerate over 30mph. My husband was a mechanic until he passed so I know some things about cars. There were no other prior signs of problems. Thank you, Linda K Cooper

SXT. 199k miles. Transmission has been slipping badly when summer started. Also leaked really bad. We found out the gasket was gone, replaced that and the filter. Still was leaking but we got it to where it doesn't but it's still slipping really bad. Now we figure it's getting hot and overheating. Made the most sense since in the winter it was fine and when it's hot it's not. We put some of that transmission fix that's supposed to help cool it down but that didn't change it at all. I am at a loss and don't really want to replace the entire transmission.

And why does the steering wheel shake, there is also a humming noise coming from a rear wheel,is it the bearing ?