Dodge Grand Caravan QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I have a 2007 dodge grand caravan I have had a hard time fixing a low voltage problem I have replaced the sensor and wiring harness the ecm and the cooling fans and still have the same problem is there hooked up to the computer and it says the engine temp is 375 witch is not right and the cooling fan runs nonstop when engine is running any help would be great thanks in advance
i can t believe there s no diagram where it shows the name of the fuses in the IPM for my van. It does not come in the manual. i m having trouble to find the power outlet fuse. need to be more specific and considered with customers don t you think
rubber hose directly under passenger seat on coolant line cracked. What size rubber hose do I buy to replace hose?
use to Would turn Switch off n On while rolling and would go into high gears.Would have to do that about Once in 4 trips.Checked fluid! could it be solenoids
i can not tell how fast i go, how much gas or anything else. need to know how much part is and where i can get it fixed.
Lift gate failed. I had the motor, linkage and latch replaced. Now if I open with the remote I must close with the remote. I can no longer open with the remote and close by hand. The dealer does not know why?
When this happens the dash warning lights come on as is normal, but nothing else happens. Is the problem in the ignition switch? This only happens once or twice a week.
I replaced my old battery with a smaller battery. Is this gonna make a difference or cause problems ? Since I put the battery in the head lights and dash lights flicker while im driving. I dont know if its because the battery is to small ? Or maybe the alternator is starting to go ? any advice would be great thank you.
I went to auto part store and asked for the master cylinder for my caravan. This is a four wheel disk brake system. At the store they sold me the master cylinder for my caravan so I expected it to be the correct part. I was surprised to find out when installing this new part that the fitting on the end of ech brake line that attaches to the master cylinder wer a littlie smaller then the threaded female opening on the new cylinder. they would not thread in and hold tight or even be tighted all the way so I figured they gave me the cylinder for the caravan with rear drum brakes. So when I took the new cylinder back and check to see if the new cylinder was for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes I was surprised to find out the new cylinder was the one for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes. So I exchanged the new cylinder that is for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes and got the cylinder that is for the caravan with rear drum brakes. When I installed the new cylinder that is for the caravan with rear drum brakes it fit and the end of the brake lines threaded together perfect and I bled the air from the system. All seemed well until I started getting air into the system and looseing brake pedal. this is why I replaced the cylinder to begin with. Cause when I removed the master cylinder that was on my caravan when i bought it, there was brake fluid visible. So I figured this new cylinder would fix my problem. But it is doing the same thing and I havent removed the new cylinder to see if there is brake fluid visible again. I wanted to get some answers first before I attempt any more troubleshooting of my brakes. Now what I want to know is if its ok to have the master cylinder thats for the caravan with rear drums on my caravan that has four wheel disk brakes. Or do I need to cutt the end of both the lines that attach to the master cylinder and put on the larger fittings and flair the brake lines so they will fit the cylinder that is for the caravan with four wheel disk brakes. Because cutting and flaring the brake lines with larger fitting is the only way the four wheel disk brake master cylinder will install correctly onto my caravan. Once I get the answer on what I need to do I can finally not have to bleed my brakes every day. thank you
Just found anti freeze in oil.
I see a lot of people asking the same type of question, mine is also showing 'ESP' indicator as well as the 'squiggly' lines indicating loss of traction. I just wonder how this can be an 'electrical/sensor/computer' problem when the noises seem to be more 'mechanical'?
dual video screens, only the rear one works, both worked when first purchased (used). The screen (rear) only works when it's placed at a certain angle. is there an in-line fuse for each screen?
engine code P0340 no cam signal at pcm, what could be problem and the solution ?
changed my altinator and let the van run for almost 45 minutes to get a good charge and now the van will not start back up as if it hadn't charged at all. its got an all new battery and fuel pump and everything else is in pretty good shape
played good,one morning nothin,no sound,checked fuses already and harness
The noise seems to be coming from the upper area of the firewall. I have already replaced the struts and strut mounts but the noise is still there. A local shop has also changed many of the suspension bushings with no luck, any sugestions?
The check engine light is coming on and staying on. I was told that I have an emissions leak causing the switch to stick so it needs to be replaced.
Does it while driving and shifting gearstrying to accelerate to shift lanes
Does it while driving and shifting gears
When my car shifts into 2 it makes the steering wheal jerk to the left a little, and sometimes not at all
Shifting gears, picks up speed and then drops speed