Dodge Caravan Questions
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Wiring harness was melted but I repaired that. the wire doing to injector 2 dous not flash and is constant power. All others flash
Both vehicles are 1998 Dodge Caravans.
WOULD THIS BE A WHEEL SENSOR
Not all the time
I was driving at 15 mph in a mall parking lot and felt a bump, like I had run over a speed bump or something in the road. Nothing was in the road way. A minute later the check engine light came on...after which the van won't shift up. Drives great up to 45 mph. But rpm's rev up to 5000 at 60 mph. Feels like the transmission can't shift up.
the van had stopped running for no reason put new fuel pump and new plugs van ran for a week and stopped again once it was started again it would die when put in gear
Have checked fuses. Would work until it got warm then would flat line. Would start working again if you banged on dash, then it quit working altogether. Panel light is only thing that works.
When your drive it, it feels like somethings holding it back. Misfiring/ pulsing at 1500 rpm. Thinking a timing issue or what?
Over the last few days I have noticed that my temperature gauge has been fluctuating. It never goes hot, it only goes down from the center point that it usually rests at. Today it won't go higher than just above the coldest spot on the gauge. What could cause this? A fuse, a sensor? Please, any help is much appreciated.
car the gauge moves the odometer goes hay weir some times headlights go on an off cant use my chager for phone or radio car engine dies then heater comes on. after it dies the car will start up again.it sounds like it could be a electrical problem .
Needing to replace engine, but would like to add some umph. Can I upgrade from 2.4 to a 3.3 engine?
I CHANGED SPARK PLUGS & WIRES,FUEL INJECTOR,COIL PACK, ADD A FUEL ADDITIVE TO REMOVE CARBON. I CLEARED THE CODE AND DROVE 100 MILES ON I-95 NO CODE CAME BACK. BUT IF I IDLE AT A STOP LIGHT IN DRIVE P-301 CODE COMES BACK. IF I'M AT THE SAME STOP LIGHT IN NEUTRAL NO CODE PROBLEMS. PS OVER THE LAST YEAR THE CAR ONLY STALLED AT A RED LIGHT.
winter weather -8 to -18 degrees centigrade start vehicle ,engage transmission into forward drive ,vehicle moves forward without hesitation after one minute of forward drive put transmission into reverse ,vehicle reverse without hesitation , after half of minute of reverse drive , engage transmission to forward drive ,transmission does not engage,after about 2 to 4 minutes transmission engage and drives normal
Park lamps stay on for 3 min. Off for 30sec.then back on ect. All night and day
I had my car repaired and I had to reset the readings in order to pass a Nevada Smog check. The EGR will not complete re-setting and I have driving miles on the car in concert with the specs on the website and it still registers "incomplete" what can I do to get this to re-set so I can pass my smog check?
It has plenty of coolant but while checking everything out under the hood I noticed there was a fine spray of coolant coming out of the upper heater hose where it attaches to the radiator. Could there be a clog or something in the hose?
I removed the shock absorber door lifters and can see that the left hinge is the culprit. However, it doesn't appear to be "loose" but when the (now very heavy) door is fully down, the left side at the top is an inch lower than the right side, suggesting hingle slippage.
What must I consider before attempting to remove the door entirely with a socket wrench?
I replaced master cylinder and bleed brakes. seems to have some brakes with the engine not running but when you start it no brakes at all